I though I had better pictures on my phone, but I was wrong...

The pipe, is the stub sticking off the end of the carrier that you are supposed to stick the jack handle into to aid in lifting and lowereing the carrier.

I would not use anything other than Reese, Always seemed better quality to me. Curt and Draw-tite are those kind of companies that get bought and sold alot, never know where the material is coming from. That and the fact that is what out local hitch and trailer builder swears by on pre-built hitches.

Here are the two best pics I have with me at the moment. The fist shows a side profile to give you an idea of the mounting and how it isnt low slung.

 

I also didn't post (out of embarrasment) - but after my first reciever hitch fiasco I took my truck to a local Pep Boys full service station and asked if they had a hitch for it.

"Yes we do" was the asnwer - after checking 2 different hitches (one was Reece) the mechanic gave up because neither fit at all (even though their computer said they did). They sent me away, money still in my wallet.

 

Most places will only carry the uni-fits in stock as pre-96 is too old to keep a custom fit for the retail world. That's why I had to order mine.

 

Ok, according to my local specialist, Hitch Headquarters, Hampton VA, Curt is a cheap poor quality hitch, he sells Reese and Valley hitches, that's where I bought my 5th wheel hitch. If you are buying a receiver hitch you are probably planning to pull something that needs it, don't try to "cheap" it out!

 

Thank you, Archion. I would rep you but I cannot. Now that I understand through experience what the situation is under there with the frame rails and the rivet head, I can see looking at the photo link of the Reece hitch you suggested that it is more likely to fit correctly than the one I bought. It looks like it doesn't hang as far down, and the posterior mounting hole on the reciever is further back on the hitch. Thank you, I should have taken your advice to start with.

I have the same rear bumper you do. But my little F150 is a 4.9L 4 speed OD manual tranny with a 3.08 rear. So I have gradually realized that it just is not made for towing. In fact, according to the owners manual I should not tow anything over 2000lbs maximum. I think my Volvo station wagon could tow more than my truck!

So I am thinking of just using my bumper for towing, if and when I need to. Does anone know of a brand of 2" reviever tube that bolts to the underside of the step bumper itself, that fits our trucks? That way I could have the "look" of a real receiver hitch, without the weight and hassle of drilling into the frame (since I don't really need or can even use with my truck a real class III or IV hitch). I have seen these "bolt to the bumper" recievers on some trucks. I know they are pathetic and not rated for anything beyond what the bumper itself is rated for. But according to the owners manual, my 7.5" step bumper is rated to pull more than my truck is rated to pull!

Really all I want or can use with my truck is a fake "real hitch" look and the ability to tow around light things like a little plastic cart full of feathers. And a place to hang my "truck nutz", as ArdWrknTrk suggested (joke)!

 

Ok, look at these. This was on the truck when I bought it, it is a V5 receiver hitch, unfortunately there was no spare or carrier as these are optional and it apparently was never ordered. The deep drop step bumper works well with the stock height of the F350. There are 4 1/2" gr8 bolts attaching each side plate to the frame, the three bolts attaching the receiver cross piece are also 1/2", but actually only hold the side plate on as the receiver tube goes through them. The main support is the 3/8" thick piece that is part of the bumper. You can see the receiver is welded into the center of it. The holes in the frame appear to have been the original Ford stampings.

 

No biggie on the reps, plenty to go around. I just try to help where I can. I wonder why the truck is rated so low? is it the tranny that is a weak point. I've seen the 300-6 in dump trucks and they have enough torque to drive straight up a wall so I know it's not the motor. I know the 8.8 isnt as strong as the 9" but it is stronger than that. Loaded trailer I'm looking a shade over 6200 pounds on a 302/AOD/4x4. It's not the fastest through the mountains, but it gets the job done.

 

I agree with Archion, the 300 6 is a workhorse of an engine, given a choice between that and a 302 for towing, I would take the 300 any day. The dump truck he is referring to was a 1970 F600 with a 300HD and a big truck 4 speed (granny low). It would run around our Boy Scout camp all weekend during OA ordeals and once I fixed the throttle cable do 60-65 with no problem. After 2 hurricanes (Floyd followed by Isabel) we worked that truck hard, more than a few times the dump bed was loaded all the way up with big (12-18" dia) pieces of fallen trees. It would pull or carry anything we asked it to.

 

It's my weak little tranny that is the limiting factor. The manual 4 speed OD, also known as Top OD or "TOD" in the 1986 factory manual. It came only in F150's and Broncos. It is good for gas mileage, but that is about its only advantage. The good things about my truck is it is reliable, gets decent gas mileage, and superficially resembles a truck in external appearance. But it is really a commuter car with a bed bolted on the back of it, not a workhorse truck designed for pulling or hauling heavy stuff.

Ford recomended an automatic transmission for towing, and any automatic transmission increases their towing rating in the owners manual.

 

one thing is with the receiver hitches is if you tell them that you have a 4x4 then that hitch for a 4x4 is built with around 4"-5" of drop in it to accommodate the lift of the truck !
i have all ways just ordered one for a 2x4 truck and never had any problems !
although i never have seen a hitch that i did not need to drill holes in the frame !

 

Good info about the 4x4 hitch, I have never seen an order for these where it was possible to distinguish between a 4x4 versus 4x2 hitch!

I was just talking about maybe using one of these bumper-mount recievers (below). Pathetic, I know, but I guess I don't really need anything more with my 2000 lb max towing capacity! Right?

 

Usually the extra height on the hitches is the uni-fits have to fit Ford, GM and Chrysler, all have different frame channel sizes and bumper heights, but have similar widths. The ones with the bolt together center piece even flip upside down for use on a van.

 

I made up my truck's hitch too. It still allows the spare carrier to be used as normal.

But I welded a vertical plate on each side, running up the outside of the chassis rails & bolted through, so that the bottom web of the frame isn't carrying much tongue weight.

The original bumper brackets & braces still fit, but needed spacers to accommodate the vertical plates.

 

I got one of those for my Bronco, but had it welded in. THEN I ran the bolts through it using grade 8 bolts, and dished out the plastic part on the top of the step bumper for the bolt heads. Looks great, and all I'll be using it for is a hitch mounted cargo carrier for going camping.

 

Thanks Anafiel, I appreciate it.