I just swapped a body over to a roller frame and decided I would try and crank it over yesterday.

Well, I turned the key and nothing happened. Disconnected and reconnected the battery and the lights would come on fine, turn the key and they went off along with a faint "click" sound.

Then my stepdad used a test light and touched both posts on the battery, lights came back on...turned the key to "on" (not "start") and the engine tried cranking until he pulled the test light off.(only a second or so)

The ground to the block from battery is fine. The ground from the block to the firewall is fine.

Is the solenoid bad, or not grounding? How can I get the noid to ground better?

 

Are you getting power to the "S" terminal when the key is turned to Start?

Josh

 

I couldn't check because as soon as the key was to "on" the power would cut out unless the test light was on the + and - terminals on the battery.

 

Well, power DOES cut out to the truck if the key is in START, except the headlights.

That's normal.

Put a test light between ground and the "S" terminal and turn the key to START and report back.

Josh

 

You say the truck cranks with the key in the run position if the test light is across the battery terminals?

If so, that's quite strange...

 

No, when I put the key in "on" or run, the power to the lights cut out. Not when I am trying to start the truck. I can pull the light switch, turn the key over one click (not trying to start it) and the lights shut off until the test light is on both terminals.

Yes, very strange.

I'm thinking a ground has to be bad somewhere and that the solenoid might also be bad even tho its fairly new.

 

Have you tried just pushing on and twisting the terminals and posts on the battery. If the post is broken inside, just pushing the test light against it might be enough to make enough connection to crank. The faint click and light going off sounds like low battery voltage (we know it isn't because it did crank) or high voltage drop (which you would have with a loose/broken post or terminal).

That's all that makes sense because the test light is electrically "invisible" when its connected just from post to post.

 

Sorry to double post, but I'm on my phone so oh well...

I wanted to add that its highly likely that the solenoid contacts have "welded" together from trying to crank on either a previous dead battery or just now with this problem. That's probably why it wants to crank when it did. At least be prepared for that to be the case and have a way to disconnect the ground wire quickly at hand.

Since it cranked in the run position, the only likely reasons are the solenoid being stuck, a short to the start wire from the switch or a mismatch in wiring from the two trucks. Either way, you have a great potential for an accident or a fire. I wouldn't leave the battery hooked up until you solve this problem and while testing things just be ready for the truck to start at any time. Pulling the accessory belts off isn't a bad idea so nothing gets in the fan or pinched in a belt.

Let us know as you figure out more and I'll try to check back tomorrow. Good luck...

 

The only way for the solenoid to crank in RUN is a wire crossing over something else or the ignition switch is bad.

The "S" terminal on the solenoid is the signal from the switch to engage the starter.

Possible you don't have the S and I terminal wires switched?

Josh


Josh

 

Thanks for the tips.

I'll check the battery post, it's fairly new but whot knows lol. The noid could be bad, I spent a lot of time trying to start the truck before when I was having starter/flywheel engagement issues.

I got a pic from another member and I'm pretty sure the wiring is hooked up right.

I won't be back to the truck for another month but if problems persists, I'll let you guys know.

 

the I side terminal should have a solid brown wire to it and the S side should be a red wire with blue stripe.