That will take me learning how to weld.
I know the advantages of it, but I cant do it.

 

Hey... I know somebody that's looking for one of those...

 

Just needed the pictures to compare/reference to the one I picked up for you. Check your email.

 

Thanks Ilya, will do.

 

The center pin (bolt) holds the spring pack together and is easy to remove (the springs aren't under much pressure). The rivets you see just hold the brackets on. I just got done with my spring packs this week. I pulled them apart, wire wheeled and painted each spring and put them back together with a new center bolt. For the center bolt I used a grade 8 bolt and ground the head down so it is rounded. You can use a strip between the leaves, but I skipped that since my newer truck doesn't have it.

I removed 5 of 8 leaves, using the 2 longest and the second shortest. My intent is to drop the front ride height and soften the ride. If need be I can always put more springs back in.

I am also going for a budget resto that will be a driver and used for some hauling. I wire wheeled my frame, which looks like yours with no real rust at all. Then I painted it with a coat of primer and a few coats of Krylon semi-flat black. That will make it easy to touch up in the future.

 

This worked well on my 52 with a c4 trans. buillt out of 3" channel and bracket for park brake.
Bill

 

Great project! Looking good already. Panelman hit it right on the head with the giant rotisserie. I have mine hooked up on two engine stands even as we speak. Works great for getting into every nook and cranny. Oh yeah, I agree as well, leave the running board brackets on if you can, not worth the hassle taking them off. You will probably have to remove the old old motor mounts and crossmember as well. When I got my truck (49 F-1), it was equiped with a 302/C6 setup. pretty crappy looking weekend job by Larry, Darrell and Darrell but it worked. I am going back to original so I was one of those guys that needed to find all the old motor mounts and Crossmember etc..., Soooo..... yep, hang on to that stuff if you can.

Now, as question for panelman or anyone else. I was going to use the Rustoleum, in fact I already started but even after its been "curing" for at least 4 weeks it does tend to chip easy. Is it possible to do the Por-15 over the Rustoleum after maybe just a light sand, or will it not adhere correctly?

 

What is POR-15?
Bill

 

Paint Over Rust - 15.

 

POR-15 3 Step Application Process - YouTube

Sunlight will murder it though, and its expensive. I can go on all day about it.

 

I just ran across this thread today for the 1st time, and notice I got quoted up above... sure take it out of context, I could look like a pro or an idiot that way - could definitely go either way with me :P

Out of curiosity, what gear ratio did you get in your rear end and what transmission are you going with?

 

Hey Bryan,
You are famous & you didn't even know it!
I like your posts -keep em coming - I always learn something.

Ben in Austin

 

Well learnin somethin is good... if the BS I am spouting that day happens to be truth or at least close. Now on the days that I been reading threads on the HAMB, I make sure not to post any "truths"

 

Quoted?

Anyway, the rear from the truck? Or the narrow 9" I'm putting in?
I don't know (that is the answer to both questions)

Anyway, got some of these guys from harbor freight, and hooked them up to the grinder. Figured it would take ish of fast!



It got the loose stuff of just fine, but I still hand sanded it. Yes, by hand. 100 grit in my palm, worked to 180, then a light 220. I was sanding things for years in my dads Carpentry business, I really am quite amazing at hand sanding things. I wont bore you with pictures of the sanding and cleaning...

I decided to go cheap-o with the frame paint:


Primer:


Dry paint!


I only concentrated on the bottom of the frame rails, tomorrow or friday Ill flip the frame over and get the top done, and touch up the sides. But it looks pretty damn good for costing less than $30 (paint, grinder wire wheels, paper, etc)

Oh, and one parson can flip the frame over, 2 engine stands are a bit overkill.

 

"narrow" 9... now you got me more curious. Look on the front of that diff top left bolts for a tag, if you find one then on the bottom row (very close to the bolt head) the ratio will be like 3L50 or 3.25, etc. this example is a 2.79 ratio:
http://www.kevinstang.com/tag4.jpg

more info than you ever wanted to know about 9" rear end.
Kevinstang's Ford Nine Inch Differential Page +

and all the info you wanted to know on what easy swaps match up to what we have:
1948 through 1960 Ford F-1 and F-100 Rear Axle (differential) Swaps .: Articles

I'm just trying to guide you here as if you ended up with too low a ratio then no matter what transmission you put in you will be tearing up torque converters or clutches. (I'm borderline at 3.00 I wouldn't suggest anyone go lower with the transmission choices we have)