It is just a plug and play relay. There is a noticeable difference between it and the stockers. If a guy was prepared I imagine he could still swap out the Cyclopse relay with a new one. The idea is to make the relay box a little trickier to get in? I guess I'll have to hope a "smart" crook never comes by my truck. But then again that's why I pay for insurance.

 

Really got a kick out of this. Got an idea, how about a pair of large batteries tucked in out of site, connected to an isolator with an inverter, then hook up the fence charger. I'm not sure about the legal part but it would sure distract anybody with bad intentions. This also reminded me of something the hotrodders used to do. Connect a model A coil to the body with a ground strap to complete the circuit, touch the rig and you get bit.

 

Thanks, I bet (I'll have to go look.) there is another relay right next door that controls something not needed during the getaway..

Sam

 

Anti theft made simple. 25 years+ aircraft avionics experience:
Take a wire, any wire that turns on something that the truck has to have to run... ie key to coil wire, fuel pump power wire, pick your own device and locate the power in wire. Cut this wire and install a circuit breaker or in-line fuse in this wire. Making sure that the fuse/circuit breaker is large enough to run the device you selected. Take a wire and attach this to the load side of the fuse/circuit breaker, run this wire from there, to a switch to a ground. Get out, turn on switch. Get in, turn off switch. One extra thing to remember.
Per Homer Simpson--DOH
If someone tries to start the truck without turning off the switch, the fuse blows and will not start until you replace the fuse or reset the breaker. They can flip switchs all day. Won't help. Keep a hand full of fuses in the glove box because until you get use to it, you'll be replacing it a few times.
Put the fuse/circuit breaker in a hidden/hard to access place. They can rip out wires all day but they've got to locate the hidden fuse holder and replace the fuse. I use the cigarette lighter as a switch but if you use too large a fuse it will make the cigarette lighter work and not blow the fuse.
K.I.S.S. Keep it simple stupid

Switch $5.99
Wire $2.00
Fuse holder $2.00
Total $9.99
Truck in driveway....priceless

PM me or call if you need a drawing/advise
Paul 928-503-2194

 

Ok, so this is my antitheft device, and I still have my truck. At home, I have a 3/4" chain that is locked to the base of a 24" Oak Tree, when I get home I drop the links through my tow hook and lock it with a monster padlock. This wont stop someone who really wants it, but it will give me enough time to put .45 ACP into their foreheads. Being so obviously large and a task to try and cut the lock or chain. The thieves decided to drive past my house and steal my neighbors truck instead. It took them less than 8 minutes to steal his (according to my cameras). Sometimes simple and cheap works best. Also, try removing the Powerstroke badging on the door. Thieves around here in South Florida want nothing to do with the gas trucks, so I guess at first glance they think mine is not a diesel. Apparently, the dual 5" exhaust with 6" tips didn't clue them in...

 

I third it!

 

My husband bought a Ford F550 dump truck because it's awesome. He makes his living with it. Then CA banned trucks of this type. I was doing the paperwork to at least extend his ability to register it when it was STOLEN. Back window was broken, ignition punched. We went through hell getting it back because guess what--your registration has to be good to get it back, but we couldn't register it until we went through the air quality board process to get an extension. Thanks to the DMV making a mistake, we actually registered it again and got it back from the city.

We paid for a punched ignition and banged out the damage from the city tow so the dumper could still dump. After paying so much money, we now cannot even register it in CA anymore and are forced to sell it this year.

OKAY. Fine. Let's make money with it, install a new back window, pay back our friends who helped fix the ignition and somehow save money for when we sell this one and have to get a new one. (That my husband swears will not be as good.)

We put a club on it. No kill switch, because most thieves can find that and we're in the hole already.

Today: found that THE thief or another one tried again. They cut through the steering wheel, got my club off, and tinkered with the ignition, but at least it starts this time. (and was still there!)

My husband wants to put some sort of boot on the truck to deter thieves while he continues to use it daily until we must sell it. I read this site. I get kill switches, but what's the point if someone is gonna bust a window (or get in the back we haven't fixed) and punch the ignition before they realize they can't start it or figure it out? The kill switch can **** with the beautiful mechanics of the motor that makes this truck great, too! Is there a boot that won't take him a half hour to take off every morning?

We park on the street in a big city. No other choice. At this point, I don't know if we should fix anything or sell as-is. He won't name a truck I can help him buy if we sell this one, probably because he thinks we can't afford anything similar. I WILL find a way to buy him a new dump truck that is legal here (CA) if I only knew what to look at.

Sorry for the rant. Husband is sleeping in the truck as I type and thinks we can just get some sort of boot tomorrow. That's fine, but the steering wheel...the ignition probably being ****ed again. No back window. This truck is great but we can't even keep it! What should I invest in? Fixing to sell? Sell?

Either way, a boot thing?

Thanks for any advice.

 

I've been using the Cyclops device for nearly 20 years. Very simple, it's module replaces your stock fuel one. You need a FOB ,supplied, in order for it to start. They can crank it, but it won't start until the FOB button is pressed, that then allows the fuel to pump. Have it on my 96 Bronco, 2002 F350 diesel and 2007 F150.

 

https://www.shop.cyclopsantitheft.com/

 

I like that cyclops deal, plug and play is always nice

I am also looking at an aftermarket alarm, any recommendations?

 

For alarm system, I highly recommend Viper. I've had one since 2003, does everything and even shows where the breach is located. Also install Jimmi-Jammers on all doors. You are totally protected then.

 

Some guys might be a little jealous of your husband, due to all your supportive efforts.

If you can limit the use of the F-550 to 1,000 miles per year or less, you can continue to register in in CA, after establishing a TRUCRS account with the CARB and reporting the mileage annually.

If you operate more than 1,000 miles a year, and are looking for a value oriented replacement light dump truck, you can sell it and look for a V10 gasoline powered F-550 with a 5.38 rear axle ratio, which is not restricted under CA's Truck and Bus Regulation, if your "fleet" of one vehicle is not ever likely to be subject to Large Spark Ignition regulations.

If the overhead cam phasers of the V10 make your husband nervous, and you can get the jobs done with a 15,000 lb GVWR (Instead of the 17,500 - 19,500 GVWR of the F-550), then consider a 1991 - 2001 Chevy/GMC 3500HD chassis cab dump truck with the 454 big block gas engine. If living in a Ford-Only family, then the 1987-1997 Ford F-SuperDuty chassis cab was available at a slightly lower GVWR, with a slightly higher displacement gas engine, the 460 / 7.5L V8.

A hardened 3/8" chain to a telephone pole or a tree might be able to get your husband back inside the house for the night.

 

The Ford V10, both 2V and 3V versions, are the MOST used engines in C Class RV's and gas engines in F250-650 chassis trucks. The main reason is torque and reliability. The larger chassis trucks have tuned down engine, but a Mike's 5 Star programmer will definitely wake them up. If automatic transmission, a must do is a Transgo shift kit.

 

Thank you guys for the good advice and support. Seriously the best thing the internet has helped me with in a long time. I'll keep you posted, but thought you might like this for now.

We are going to act on the Cyclops and more. I think we cannot file for the exemption on the air quality because we are late, but I am at least going to try to finish that, too now.

As I described your advice, my guy would start to say something about pros and cons and I was like "Yeah, that's what was discussed in the thread I joined!" I will probably turn this over to him so he can talk to ya'll but if he's not into it, at least I have the best sounding board ever without asking him a bunch of questions








Some guys might be a little jealous of your husband, due to all your supportive efforts.

If you can limit the use of the F-550 to 1,000 miles per year or less, you can continue to register in in CA, after establishing a TRUCRS account with the CARB and reporting the mileage annually.

If you operate more than 1,000 miles a year, and are looking for a value oriented replacement light dump truck, you can sell it and look for a V10 gasoline powered F-550 with a 5.38 rear axle ratio, which is not restricted under CA's Truck and Bus Regulation, if your "fleet" of one vehicle is not ever likely to be subject to Large Spark Ignition regulations.

If the overhead cam phasers of the V10 make your husband nervous, and you can get the jobs done with a 15,000 lb GVWR (Instead of the 17,500 - 19,500 GVWR of the F-550), then consider a 1991 - 2001 Chevy/GMC 3500HD chassis cab dump truck with the 454 big block gas engine. If living in a Ford-Only family, then the 1987-1997 Ford F-SuperDuty chassis cab was available at a slightly lower GVWR, with a slightly higher displacement gas engine, the 460 / 7.5L V8.

A hardened 3/8" chain to a telephone pole or a tree might be able to get your husband back inside the house for the night.

 

I work on a lot of electrical systems. One happens to be security systems for large corporations , military installations commercial and at one time residential.

there are these switches called plunger switches they come with a roller ball or a plunger finger/long tab. These can be mounted where you can either open or close a door or a drawer or use a pressure switch under carpet. You can also go to the junkyard and look for a 80s Camaro with t tops. The mirrors on the T top equipped cars have built in map lights. You can wire one switch as a kill switch. The switch can be pushed when yiu leave or enter and it looks like you’re adjusting your mirror.

another kill switch can be under the carpet. Look at cop cars they come with them.
a switch can be installed in the interior where it’s requiring a a dsssory say ashtray to be open or drink holder to be closed.
yiu can hide a magnetic switch under the carpet where it requires a magnet to be placed there to close the contact in order to turn on a relay that completes the starting circuit.
yiu can make one system kill switch that kills other systems and unless that first one is figured out the others won’t come online


There are many ways to kill a car and make it hard to start. I can tell yiu how to wire the starting or the fuel injection system or the ignition packs of the car to go through multiple relays to kill a vehicle either right there or a minute after they start it with a time delay relay. And you can still,only do so much. If they have the time they can defeat the systems. But they gotta know where to look a d how to bypass them

imput a viper system on my trucks a di have a tracking system on them. A kill switch is somewhere in the car but I won’t say where. It will be removed of I ever sell the trucks.