I ran a buzz test this morning on my truck before I headed out to work because I have been trying to diagnose a vibration. After it and the CCT passed I decided to run all the other tests. I came up with 19 DTCs and thought I was going to pass out. I literally think I saw my truck life flash before my eyes.

Here are the codes:

P1415 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor out of range
P0476 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Range/Performance
P1536 Parking Brake Switch Circuit
P0220 Throttle / Pedal Position Sensor / Switch Circuit B
P1780 Transmission Control Switch (O/D Cancel) Circuit Out of Self Test Range
P0571 Cruise Control / Brake Switch A Circuit
P0703 Torque Converter / Brake Switch B Circuit
P0565 Cruise Control On Signal
P0566 Cruise Control Off Signal
P0567 Cruise Control Resume Signal
P0568 Cruise Control Set Signal
P0569 Cruise Control Coast Signal
P1867 Transfer Case Contact Plate General Circuit Failure
P1728 Transfer Case unable to transition between 2H and 4H
P1729 Transfer Case unable to transition between 4H and 4L
B1352 Ignition Key-In Circuit Failure
P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor A
B1203 Fuel Sender Circuit Short to Battery
P1211 ICP Higher/Lower than desired (engine running)

If you look at my other thread you will notice that I found out on Tuesday that 4wd was not working when I removed my driveshaft. That explains the tcase codes, but what exactly is it pointing to? I'm just at a little bit of a loss here.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...vibration.html

I think the B1352 and P0500 are related to the overhead display. It works, but is missing one of the resistors (weird).

All my cruise control functions work fine as does the OD button. Could this be a chaffed wire in the column?

A really appreciate any help you guys can give me.

Kyle

 

Since the truck appears to run ok, clear the codes and drive around for a couple of days and see what codes appear. Those could be stored codes from a previous maintenance issue (such as turning on the key with the main engine harness disconnected...)

 

It also looks like a KOEO test was run and the tester didn't hit all the buttons or perform functions as the test requires. Like Greg adviced clear all the codes and and start over.

 

I cleared codes and started over. I have not re-run all the tests but I did the KEOR switch test and got the following codes again.

P1536 Parking Brake Switch Circuit
P0220 Throttle / Pedal Position Sensor / Switch Circuit B
P1780 Transmission Control Switch (O/D Cancel) Circuit Out of Self Test Range
P0571 Cruise Control / Brake Switch A Circuit
P0703 Torque Converter / Brake Switch B Circuit
P0565 Cruise Control On Signal
P0566 Cruise Control Off Signal
P0567 Cruise Control Resume Signal
P0568 Cruise Control Set Signal
P0569 Cruise Control Coast Signal

Am I supposed to be promted to push the buttons or just start as soon as the test starts. I fiddled with it and was able to test it again without the cruise codes coming up by hitting the buttons.

I also got the following codes this time.

P1876 Transfer Case 2-Wheel Drive Solenoid Circuit Failure
U1262 SCP (J1850) Communication Bus Fault
U1027 SCP (J1850) Invalid or Missing Data for Engine RPM

It is obvious that 4wd is not working. I'm thinking solenoid, but curious why I got different codes this time. Is it because I have not tried to re-engage 4wd?

I also had the rear-end worked on today. I had a significant amount of slop in the pinion and the pumpkin was building a lot of heat. I still have what could really be a big engine miss that feels like driveline vibration.

I can now add rebuilt rear-end to the list of repaired driveline components in the last year (tie rods, drag link, hub bearings, transmission, driveshaft rebuild/rebalance). The truck has almost been completely rebuilt now.

I'm getting a bit frustrated.

 

My advice is to stop running tests for now. Use the live data tab if you want to look at things. If you get a P1316 code, then run a buzz test or contribution test, but otherwise just look for codes that the truck sets by itself.

Every time you run a switch test, you have to press all the switches in a certain order. Things like the brake pedal, all the cruise buttons, etc. For each button or pedal you do not push, or push out of order, a new code will be set. Since you're not pushing the pedals and buttons, you're just causing the codes to show up and getting gray hair for nothing.

Clear the codes and relax. If you want to look for issues, try all the stuff the live data tab can monitor. There's enough there to make your head spin.

 

Probably the best advice I have been given so far. Seriously. I know you have seen my vibration thread and then with this it was starting to get to me.

I think I am going to try and get ahold of Roland today and see if he will be around this weekend. He lives right down the road from me. I think I just need a logical 3rd party that can see and feel what I am seeing.

I do appreciate all the input from you guys. Sometimes I can google quicker than I can think and my head starts spinning.

 

Okay, I took a breath...several deep breaths and did the following this weekend. I posted this in my other thread, so I figured I would post it here. Tackle this truck one problem at a time.

I know the code for 4wd is legit...because it doesn't work. I haven't even checked codes again this weekend. Will do it later and see what has re-appeared since I cleared them.

From the decel thread...

I have been having a thought this could be a fueling issue. I have also recently run out of diesel just under 1/4 tank. I decided to go ahead and pull the tank this weekend to see what was up and I would do the hutch/harpoon while I was in there. Well here is what I found.

This was all drained out of the bowl before I started the tank removal. I drained about 10 gallons out total. Those are little rusty bits in there. I'm not sure where this might have come from. I have run a steel transfer tank in the past, but it was filtered at the pump.



Here you can see my pickup screen was broken in 2 spots. Just below the clamp and right at the foot. I picked up a new screen at the dealer to fix this.



Here it is all fixed up.



I put about 150 miles on it this weekend and it seems to be gone. The only thing I can figure is that I was getting air bubbles sucked up on accel and decel.

 

Thanks for the update. Low fuel will throw some weird codes. Also sounds like you may have had a short in the fuel level sender somewhere. Let's hope you got her fixed and everything else operates normally.