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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 12:20 AM
  #1  
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Fogging

Hey Guys,

I was reading several pages back and saw some references to "fogging" your motor by removing the manifold intake line off the master cylinder and pouring some Seafoam down the line and letting it sit and then starting the truck...

A few questions on this procedure - - first, is that the correct procedure and second, exactly what does this accomplish???

Les
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 12:22 AM
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Yes, it is the correct procedure according to Seafoam.

What it's supposed to do is burn off all the carbon deposits off the valves and lubricate the valve train.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 12:36 AM
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Thanks for the quick reply and answers... Are the details of that procedure on the Seafoam can or otherwise available somewhere???

Les
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 01:19 AM
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Sea Foam | Home

Everything you need to know plus videos of how to use.

I have never used it in the intake, i tried the spray once and didn't get it all the way in so it leaked down the air filter tube.

I run a can through the gas tank a few times a year and run some through the oil on the first 2 oil changes I do on any used vehicle I buy. I also use it as a fuel stabilizer on my jet skis, quads and for the fuel station tank on my toy hauler.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 07:27 AM
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In my opinion, if you don't have any problems, don't try to "fix it".

The best way to keep the engine clean is to "get on it" once in a while.

Any time I've taken apart one of my engines over the years, it's always nice and clean inside.

Use a good brand-name oil, a brand-name gasoline, and keep up on the regular maintenance.

There's NO reason you need to have your engine ingest liquids that can hydrolock it or otherwise loosen deposits that will damage something.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 07:31 AM
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Just keep in mind whatever you "fog" your engine with will have to pass over your O2 sensors and through your catalyst. It will also end up in your oil. Better off running some injector cleaner like Chevron with Techron IMO.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 08:40 AM
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OK - thanks for those tips as well guys - makes good sense...

Les
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 09:02 AM
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I've heard arguments both ways to use/not use Seafoam... My father in law used it on is Dakota several years ago. He never really got any improvement out of it. It probably didn't need it.

Over the summer I was noticing that I didn't have the pep that I remembered. I ran 2 bottles of the fuel system cleaner through it. Each on separate tanks. As Krewat mentioned... "Get On It" a little while running something through the fuel. Let it scream! Now, I'm back to what I remember... although now I'm using more gas because I like hearing that V10 in the high rpms.

Just my 2cents...
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 03:20 PM
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I'm not a fan of it [seafoam] but I know lots of people are. I personally didn't have good results with it a while back on a previous vehicle.

IMO it actually caused more trouble (in my particular case).

I agree with Art, "if it 'aint broke - don't fix it"... I do believe in the Techron products though - haven't failed me yet.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 04:25 PM
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additional thoughts

I have used Techron in my bike (Honda Gold Wing) before with good results but have not used Seafoam yet... I don't really have any idle issues or other operational issues except this intermittent start I have been fighting for a while which was the crux of my other post a few days ago regarding the fuel pump relay... The fogging question is a bit of "a reach" I guess just looking for additional answers to some other questions...

To deviate from this post a bit and reference my other post regarding the fuel pump relay - - -

When I was pulling my #9400 Travel Trailer in the Rockies last year I thought the performance could have been better as I was down to 20 MPH in first gear crossing Loveland Pass (12,000') but that may have been typical - I don't know... Maybe there is/was a connection between that towing performance and the intermittent starting issue now...

But this intermittent starting issue has been plaguing me for almost a year now - it was fine all summer long, but now that it's cold again, it seems to be acting up again... When the truck won't start, I can hear the fuel pump relay clicking, but I don't hear the fuel pump charging the fuel line and this is consistent...

When the truck starts, I hear both the relay and the fuel pump... When the truck won't start, I hear only the relay and NO fuel pump sound... Since I replaced the relay, the truck has been starting fine...

I took the old relay and put in the freezer for an hour or so and then checked it's operation with a 12 volt power supply and DVM - it worked fine... I removed it's case and looked at the contacts with a 20X jewelers loop and they look like brand new...

I wonder if the power for the fuel pump is routed thru the ignition switch after the relay but before the fuel pump??? If in fact this is the route the power takes, I could have an intermittent ignition switch rather than an intermittent fuel pump...

The reason I am suspecting the fuel pump is two fold - I can hear the fuel pump relay activate all the time but not the pump and I'm wondering if last years poor towing performance in the Rockies is somehow related to a weak or otherwise dying fuel pump??? I dunno - just thinking out loud here...

Sorry - I really went off topic with this last post but it is my effort to try and explain how it all ties together. and the way I'm thinking..

Les
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 04:43 PM
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The Techron cleaner is supposed to the same stuff the dealer sells with the Motorcraft brand on it.

Also remember you are down quite a bit of power due to the thinner air at that 12,000' altitude. A naturally aspirated engine like the V10 can lose a a good percentage of its power output. Forced induction reduces the power loss quite a bit they suffer some from the thinner air also. Down to 20mph towing 10k lbs sounds a little slow but I don't know the exact road conditions or how your truck is configured.

Would be nice to maybe semi permanently install a fuel pressure gauge you can monitor while driving to see if any screwy happens.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 06:37 PM
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Thanks for the reply... Yes, I understand the altitude thing - I often quote on my RV Forums that I moderate that a naturally aspirated motor will lose from 3-5% of power per 1000' of altitude... So at 12,000, I could have been down 30-60% in power... I get that part, but a buddy of mine that also inhabits the FTE Forum is towing a similar size and weight TT with his Excursion and he claims to have done just fine... I realize that this is a subjective topic but I trust the friend who told me this...

My truck is a 2000 2v with a full Banks kit (including Trans Command and Automind) with a 4R100 and 3:73LS rear axle... Other than the Banks kit the truck is pretty much bone stock...

I do have a fuel pressure gauge and have been thinking about reinstalling it and driving around a bit to see what things look like...

Thanks for the comments,

Les
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 10:21 PM
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You'll need to change that gear to 4.30 when you get the chance. It'll make a world of difference from what I'm told. When I bought my Ex, it already had 4.30 so I don't know what it is like with 3.73, but I've read folks that changed it, it was a significant improvement.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 11:35 PM
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Could be - but I'm not so sure it would make that big a difference... If I was at 4000 RPM in 1st and I couldn't make it up the mountain I don't think the 4:30 would be that much different for a few hundred RPM...

I drove Joe's Ex and quite frankly, I thought my 250 with the Banks did a lot better overall...

Les
 
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 03:31 PM
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I hydro-locked my first trucks engine with sea foam. Never again.
 
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