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New guy - looking for guidance on CPS, injectors

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Old 11-12-2011, 10:27 PM
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New guy - looking for guidance on CPS, injectors

Hey, all! Just signed up. I've been reading on these forums (and a few others) for a couple months, guess I'm just slow on the joining. In any case, it seems like the most experienced Powerstroke owners come here with their advice, experience and help, which is what I'm needing. I'm no mechanic, but I'll probably end up one when I finish "fixing" my truck!

I bought a 1999 F250 4x2 last year from the original owner's son. It was well cared for, and for the most part, it runs great. He was running BullyDog Power Pup tuner (I returned it to stock), added a 4" turbo-back exhaust, and had the transmission torn down/checked out about 30k miles ago, and replaced the TC with a billet TC at that time. After purchase, I took the truck in to two different dealerships and paid the $90 to have them put their computer on it and check it out bumper to bumper.

Both dealerships came back with neg CCT readings on #3 and #8. I've read on this forum and various other places that this can be just a side effect of the "improved" grey recall CPS... I don't have an original black CPS to check it against to see if that might be the problem. The truck does occasionally stumble a bit at idle, sometimes when cold and sometimes at op temp, and even though compared to the gasser 150's it's a heavy beast, it doesn't have great power going up these tiny Georgia hills. I had one tech tell me I need to get those two injectors replaced ASAP to avoid possible long-term damage, and one tell me to not worry about it, to just "save your money for a rebuild down the line." There's no excessive blowby or any other outward sign of failure... seems to me to run alright, with a few "hiccups."

I've done some research here, but with the thousands of different threads and different experiences, it's tough to apply in my situation. Do I replace those two injectors? Do I replace all of them at the same time (I can afford it at the moment) with new or reman stock? If I'm doing that, should I jump up to stage 1's? Should I be starting somewhere else altogether? I want my truck to last as long as possible with a few major repairs as possible (can't everyone say that?), and I don't race/hotrod anyway. I also don't pull much for now, maybe 3-5k.

Sorry this is so long, figured I'd get it all done at once. Thanks everyone.
 
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Old 11-13-2011, 01:08 AM
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Great to see you posting milman. First when was your 99 manufactured. Its on the driver
door panel. If it is before say 1-2000 it is probably Early 99. This will meant you have the small injectors, turbo and plenums. And yes if your CPS was updated you probably don't have to we're about injectors 3 & 8. Is it idleing rough. Check the valve cover harnesses. Its best to pull the v. cover and make sure they are pluged in tight. Then ohm out each injector and glow plug while your there. Retork rocker arms and injector hold down bolts. Pull the intake hose off the turbo and check the wheel for in and out movement and ware. Also check when done for boost leaks. Do you have gauges? Another thing when low on power is fuel filters and intank filter. You have to drop the tank to check the in tank filters and if you do that do the intank mod and put an outside prefilter on the line. I belt your truck is just fine, including injectors and something above is your problem. Some on else will check in and give you any spec's you mit need soon.
Please let us know your build date, miles and type of truck. God bless,

Chet
 
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:28 AM
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Ford has an even newer CPS now that seems to be marginally better. I would spend the $25 on that and put it in yourself to see if it made any difference. While it's always possible that you have problems with your injectors, I'd bet your issue is only with the CPS. As far as saving money for a rebuild, my truck threw the 3 & 8 CCT failure with a gray CPS well over 100,000 miles ago. This was back when we were figuring out they were no good so I was able to go back to the original one.

For your low power issues, I would tighten the clamps on all 6 rubber boots around the intercooler pipes. 2 black, 2 blue, and 2 orange ones. Don't get them too tight since they clamp on plastic and thin metal, but snug them down good. Also check your up pipes for signs of soot stains.

It might also be a good idea to pull the intercooler tube from the driver side and inspect it. I've seen a 99 model rub a hole in the tube from the power steering line. A hole there would rob you of a bunch of power.
 
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Old 11-13-2011, 01:47 PM
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Thanks for the responses. Guess I should have been more thorough with info... it's a late 99 (03/99 MFG date) with just about 195k. At least by the most obvious signs (badging, intake) it's a late 99, tomorrow after work I'll start checking more in depth (intake runners, etc). Just kind of always figured it was late.

I do have gauges, pyro, boost and trans. Boost hasn't worked since I got the truck, not much of a problem since I don't pull heavy and it's all stock (I'll replace that later), tranny quit working after the first dealership put the truck on their computer... different issue, probably, the needle just bounces around and then pegs out max and stays there shortly after starting the truck.
Anyway, I ordered riffraff plenum inserts last week so I can be... more sure I don't/won't have leaks there. I have plans to do the hutch within the next month or so, and I'll pick up the newest CPS version tomorrow.

Just out of curiosity... anyone living/know anyone in the Augusta, GA area who has the AE?
 
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Old 11-14-2011, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by F350-6
It might also be a good idea to pull the intercooler tube from the driver side and inspect it. I've seen a 99 model rub a hole in the tube from the power steering line. A hole there would rob you of a bunch of power.
Well, I've got plenty of wearing going on both tubes, but no holes yet. That's $250 I'd rather not have to spend.
 
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