Bought this GREAT running '89 F-250 Utility truck that ran awesom all 100+ miles I drove it home and for several days after. Took it to the car wash and Power washed the heck out of it including the engine area trying to avoid direct pressure on electrical areas.

After I was through, it started but ran really rough, like it was missing on several cylinders.....

I couldnt get it to run long enough to get it out of the car wash, so i left the hood open and returned the next day with a leaf blower and dried it like crazy.

Started it, still ran rough but I got it home keeping RPM's above 1500...

Replaced, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, and blew air into every electrical plug I could.... today and Not one bit of DAMN difference...


Could it be a relay or module? these things are beyond me, I have a Haynes manual on its way......


A little experienced advice or old timers tricks would be of great appreciation about now...

I have a couple Jeeps that I powerwash the motor all the time with no problem, so I assumed I could do the same with this Gem I feel I just screwed up...

help?

 

Nope you didn't screw up just discovered something on its not as water tight as it once was/should be.
I power wash the engine/underhood area every few days during winter get rid of road salt. It do tend make one spit and spuder just a little but not every time, engine heat dries it out pretty quick if/when it happens usually in the short ride home.
Little over zealous perhaps now and then to get the salt off, I do get in around the plugs and exhaust manifolds as they rust fast if not flushed clear.

Anyway check the coil over real good and not just the "coil wire" (you replaced it), unplug its harness connector flush it with wd-40 or electronic contact cleaner then some dielectric grease help maintain connection.

WD-40 is better at displacing moisture then any other purpose suggested for it. Spray it over plug wires the cap and inside/outside of dizzy etc etc until you find the trouble spot/s.

look under the hood in total darkness while it idles, see if you see the spark "leak". Might be surprised to find your new plug wires aren't "all that", look like fireworks, spark jumping from wire to valve cover etc etc. Some of them plug wires they offer these days are total junk right out the box don't have to necessary be "cheap" ones either.

 

Thanks. Gives me something to try. I appreciate it. Forgot all about WD!!!!

 

I agree 100% with the statement in bold above.

Stolen from the interwebs :

WD-40 is the trademark name of a United States-made water-displacing spray. It was developed in 1953 by Norm Larsen, founder of the Rocket Chemical Company, San Diego, California. It was originally designed to repel water and prevent corrosion, and later was found to have numerous household uses.

WD-40 stands for "Water Displacement – 40th Attempt". Larsen was attempting to concoct a formula to prevent corrosion in nuclear missiles, by displacing the standing water that causes it. He claims he arrived at a successful formula on his 40th attempt.[1] WD-40 is primarily composed of various hydrocarbons.

 

6 hours of Frustration.. $100+ and still no answer... However..

I did some searching on a Part Im unfamiliar with

The IGNITION CONTROL MODULE

Says they go out fairly often(over heating and cracking) and or something about some lithium grease going away and causing missing or off-timing problems.

Could be I washed it away.. in the Carwash??

Im tapped out till next week, but I suppose Ill replace that next.

 

When an ignition module goes out you typically get no spark and/or it runs good when cold but then sputters and dies when warmed up.

 

Nope... dosent do that... Cranks and starts, runs rough from 5rpm up, idles for about 10-15 secs then dies.

Really feels like timing is off. I havent timed a vehicle in years, but I think I still have a light. May try that Sunday. Ive never kicked myself in the *** as much for ruining a good deal as I am now.

This truck ran GREAT. Until I pulled into the carwash.

Ive got a battery drain issue to find and non-working headlights and a few fuses blown to resolve. Suppose Ill check the timing Sunday and if its ok, Ill get on the other issues and leave this Mis-Fire problem for last.

thanks again.

 

Pull the spout jumper, see how it runs.

 

Probably water in the connection between the processor and harness. It's not very well protected and washing the firewall will soak it.

 

Found the Jumper. Pulled it and it ran like on 1/2 its cylinders firing.

Reattached it and it seems a bit worse than before even.

Now heres something I didnt notice, How I missed it during all this Im not sure...

The Shroud is marked !!!



Maybe Im in for some more issues than I know

Im pretty much a replace component guy, but Ill give anything a go with some guidance...

 

Caught me between posts....

Going to check that.. Sure I didnt WD that !

 

here's a stupid question... You did have the engine RUNNING while you washed it off right? I ask because I have seen this be a issue so often when not leaving the engine run.

I have had my daily driver run mudpits 2 times a year now for a total of 4 pits since I bought it. This necessitates it be pressure washed under the hood at least a few times a year.

What I have been told is ALWAYS have it running so you dont get moisture into parts and wreck them or have to wait until it dries out. If you are worried about the engine being warm, drive it to where you plan to wash it, shut it off for 15-30 minutes, start it up and drive it in and leave it run, spray it off, and then leave. it will cook dry with no harm.

 

The primary problem with a water washdown is getting water and condensation inside the distributer. If you got water in the distributer a new cap will not fix it because the the new cap will keep condensating the water.
I once had lots of problems with a 302 in a CV, took "forever" to dry out the distributer to get it back to good running.
Remove the cap and take a heat gun to the inside of the distributer, slowly heat it until it is hot to the touch especially at the bottom where the water will stand. Better still would be to remove the distributer and drill a drain hole in the lowest part.
Another issue could be you have now created other problems with all the new parts you have replaced.
You double sure the plug wires are all installed correctly?? The 89 is not the same cap plug wire layout as the 86 and below.
Water and water vapor are mostly an issue with high impedance / high voltage circuits (think ignition) not so much with fuel injection and the low voltage systems.
On my 84 302 the ignition control module was an issue but on the 88 I have not had a problem in years but since its a Ford I have a spare module!!

 

I will replace Ignition Control Module Sunday..


I will double check Plug Wire issue when I do the work on Sat...



Thanks !!!!

 

I had my daughter hold my Phone aka / sorta video for me....

Started went to 2100 -2200. Held where I felt it smooth out...

drop to 1800 felt it start to miss...

1500 really miss

1300 drops to 1000 stumbles then to 0

couple times tried to idle for maybe even 10 seconds, then drops off instantly to 0.

Just thought Id add this till I can pick up a Ignition Module on Sunday, as thats pretty much the next thing I have to add.

I can make an attempt at timing it then also, I found my gun and I think I can manage using it, but I sure dont get why washing it would knock it out of time...

Thanks all

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