1995 f250 4x4 5.8l manual locking front hubs, Dana 50

This is my first (big truck) and I need some guidance on how to replace the front rotors on it. Ive done some research, but can't find any videos on the process. Is there any out there????

I was looking up rotors and they have the ones that are already setup with the wheel hub. What do you guys thinks of these and has anyone ever used them(want brand????).

A step by step would be great or video. I will be taking on this project over the weekend hope all goooes good. Any helpful hints or special tools to help me through this process if there is no videos out there would be great also. Thank RJ

 

This was based on a Bronco and is for replacing ball joints, but the Dana 50 is very similar and you just have to stop when you get the rotors off.

http://ford.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/...ent-18945.html
If you're comfortable pressing out the old studs and pressing in new ones then get just the rotor. If you don't want to deal with the extra hassle then get the pre-assembled ones.

I always turn new rotors because they get warped very easily during shipping and handling. Regardless of which way you go, get them turned before they go on the truck.

 

To get the studs out of my 94 F250 4x4 I use a small sledgehammer as a "cushion" between the stud and whatever hammer I use to whack at it. A few whacks will remove each stud. Of course it is better to have them pressed out. Most machine shops can do this for you.

To put new studs in I mount them and give them a few whacks, using the sledge hammer as a "cushion" again. Then I torque the wheel onto the hub to proper torque to fully seat the new studs. Then to be sure I remove the wheel and inspect the studs to be sure they are fully seated. Again a press is better but carefully done, a few whacks will do it. Just don't whack the rotor. And put it on a solid surface to keep it from moving. Several short 2x4s make good working surfaces, they protect the rotor and can be added or subtracted as needed for proper height to work with.


This is also a good time to clean and grease the wheel bearings.

Good Luck,

Jim Henderson

 

andym thanks for that link its the kind of info I needed. THERE ARE A FEW DIFFERENCES THAT I NOTICES. Tonight I open up the manual locking hubs and IT DOESN'T HAVE the snap ring--- IT HAS a hecks head screw that holds the bearing in. It only has one screw It also HAS the retainer clip. Thats as far as i got before it got to cold out

Questions:: Does this screw take the place of the snap ring?? I'm guess this does, but don't know if this screw is brand specific, or the previous owners GERRY RIG?? I also was told by the guy at AutoZone that I didn't need the SPECIAL SOCKET FOR THE LOCKNUT. He said that you just take out the snap ring which I do not have and then the retainer clip and then take off the caliper and the rotor then comes off. He said he read it in the Haynes Manual!! Is this true???

Thanks RJT

 

Don't believe anything that you hear from an Autozone employee. Most of the time their experience comes from reading Haynes manuals and the only thing they've ever done to a vehicle is check the oil.

A pic would make a huge difference, but the screw that you're describing sounds like the one that holds the locking hub together. That's not the right one. Once you get the hub out the bearings are behind it and you should need the spindle nut socket.

 

+1 and don't pull that single hub screw out !!!!!! Remove the whole hub dont disassemble it. I put two of the outer screws back in it and use them to pull it out by hand. The snap rings are behind it. With them you can be firm but don't bend them on removal.. I use two picks a straight to start it and then a hook to get under it and walk it out its simple once you have dont the first one. Only tip I can give you on the over all job is note the pin on the locking ring and don't wreck it putting it back in.

 

Thanks Bankrupter I almost took that screw out.. Question: Once you get the rotor off HOW DO YOU TAKE IT APART AND INSTALL ON NEW ROTOR?? A Video of this would be great as I;m a visual learner. I was told that they need to be press out.

Question 2: Where can I get a ford service manual on the 1995 xl HD 4x4 5.8l dana 50. ANY GOOD LINKS WOULD BE GREAT, I just can't find them.

 

Pressing out works of course, I just use a big old hammer and a 2x4 and smack it out. Its probably gonna be a pain to get apart. When you reassemble it coat anything that touches the rotor with grease or never seize so it doesnt get stuck as easily again.

 

Bang the studs out from the front side with a BFH. Then the two pieces will come apart, possibly with some slight persuasion.

 

I use a 3 lb hammer and an aluminum drift. Put it up on a block and smack away... I reuse my studs so I don't hit them direct and muck up the threads. Just take note to really seat the studs back down in the new rotor.

Did you buy a new rear oil seals for the rotors ? You will need these also and I don't see it mentioned but, I also didn't read the off site thread you were using. Do you also know how to repack the bearings? Again you may be all set but bringing it up before you get to that point.

 

Well this has been a night mare so far. This truck is very rusty and everything has been a B to get off. Got the rotor off and replaced (DURALAST GOLD), did the ball joints (MOOG), did the u-joints(DURLAST GOLD), New bearings (TIMKENS), New Rear Seal (MOOG). Got everything repacked and put back together. Torque the lock nuts to specs. Manual locker back on. AT THIS POINT I'M THINKING THE TRUCK GODS are going to let me get to the final steps of this job. WELL WHAT WOULD YOU KNOW THE CALIPER MOUNTING BRACKET WILL NOT GO BACK ON. IT IS TO CLOSE TO THE ROTOR IT NEEDS ABOUT AN INCH. I can line up the holes and get bolts in(NOT ALL THE WAY IN THOUGH) but the rotor will not move because it is riding on the bracket(wedge in). WHat the FU!@#%%. One thing that I didn't replace was the brake shield and now I'm thinking that quarter inch is the inch I need. WHAT DID I DO WRONG?? DOES IT MATTER IF THE SHIELD IS NOT PUT BACK ON??? DID I PLACE THE HUB ASSEMBLY ON TO FAR AND IF SO HOW FAR BACK IS IT SUPPOSED TO GO???? tHIS THING IS A NIGHTMARE PLEASE HELP!!!!!

 

Sounds like you either got the wrong rotor or you're trying to put the caliper bracket on wrong.

Yes you want the shield long as its in good shape (helps cool the rotor), removing it will not help your issue here regardless. If it is in the way? you got the wrong rotor.

Did you compare the old and new rotors?

 

The new rotor has more surface area on the side closest to the engine and old rotors surface is wear down that the only difference in the rotors. Do they sale rotors that the side closest to the engine is smaller than the side facing out??? I just thought that the rotor(old one) was worn. Someone expain please this to me.

 

Was just thinking is it possible that the hub is on the axle shaft to far, because if I move it out the shaft about an half inch the backet will go back on and there will be clearance. Question CAN THE HUB BE PLACE ON TO FAR UP THE AXLE SHAFT??? I remember really pushing it on before I put the lock nut and lock washer and all component on. Can someone explain this to me, where I'm I going wrong??? Question do you have to measure the distance between the back side of the rotor and the bracket mounting hole??

 

Bump , Anybody out there that has had this problem with the clearance of the caliper bracket and the rotor? If it helps it's the 4600 lbs. front alxe and the rotor (Durlast Gold) is from autozone part number#5445. Guy said it was for my truck (95 f250 xl 4x4 5.8l manual lockers)