You're working lighting fast on that Panel. Wish I had your dedication.

I'd like to see the voltage drop link. Please post it. I may need to buiild one in the future.

 

Great work as usual!!

 

Here's the link for the 12 to 5v instrument cluster voltage regulator:

http:\\chris66dad.tripod.com\id29.html


My understanding is that all Ford gauges up through the early 70's are 5 v and that, except for polarity, a 50 f-1 gauge and a 72 f-100 gauge are identical. I did put a 72 gauges in my '50 with orig. sending unit and it works great, except Empty is Full ! (used the volt. reg. off the '72 cluster. Didn't do oil and H20 yet..

 

That is correct. The gauges remained 5v for many years.

 

Put my slashes wrong.... The link is:

IVR

My bad!

 

Got Oil and water hooked up. suffering from reverse water gauge syndrome (hot is cold). Perhaps the original senders were reversed in their ohms (hot to cold). I put a 70 ford sender in. Oil is OK! Plus a pict of the back wiring.





Finish grinding the lower valance and coated it with rust inhibitor (phosphoric acid). Still some hammering and sanding and welding.




Sanded, primer and painted other fender (upper/lower) and pass. lower fender.





Also got the 5-star hood spears from 51panelman (Ilya - Great and thanks) and ordered turn signals and cowl air rubber and lower door seals and metal. Plenty to keep me busy and have everything to put front end together and do doors.

 

How hard would it be to reverse the polarity on that gauge? Or are you going to try and use the 70 sending unit for the water too?


Bye, bye mr. Bondo!! That front valance is looking much better already!

You are doing some nice paint work!!


Going full dress on the panel? That's sweet!



You guys are making me want to drag my cab out in the cold and work on it. I wonder how well welding sheet metal in below freezing temps would work.

 

Gauges are nothing but mini-ohmmeters. Polarity (since it's DC) doesn't play into the equation. (Like when you measure ohms with your mutimeter, it doesn't care which way you put leads, it just measures resistence.)

That's why I made the comment that I may need a flathead sender. Same applies to a fuel gauge. On the '50, I replaced the gauge with a '72 truck gauge and E is Full, F is empty. The original sending unit I believe, is 173 ohm empty, 10 ohm full. After going to 12V neg, I think Ford inverted the windings and 173 ohms is Full, 10 is empty. <- Edit: I'm wrong!! There is also the upside down gauge syndrome. Some have their needle pointing "south", others "north". I put the '72 gauge in my '50, and I think it may have been a "south" gauge, maybe I just need to put the '50 gauge back in, since they were all about 5v to get the correct ohmmage.

When you look inside the gauge, either '50 or '72, they are both the same, however some of the gauges have the "windings" on the left, some on the right. Thus my "north-south" gauge civil war.

I put the '72 sender in the '51 and it sits on "H" with just power, the oil behaves normally, suggesting that the oil senders didn't change ohms at no pressure vs. pressure.

Now maybe with the '50 the fuel sender didn't change, I'm just using a south gauge in a north application. Will find out this spring.

The '51 gauges have no north-south.

 

After looking a some old picts, I indeed did put a "south" gauge in a "north" dash ('50). Here's the pict of the '72 gauges. When you flip the '72 it is indeed at rest in the "F" position when pointed "north" !

So, after talking through this, I'm the idiot on the '50 (fuel anyway), but still doesn't solve water temp on '51 !

 

All I can say is mechanical gauges!

I'm a complete idiot when it comes to wiring, electronics/computers. That's one part of my build I'm almost fearing!

 

When I ground the water temp. gauge (by-pass sender) it goes to cold, not connect -Hot, thus gauge OK, perhaps my sender is not what I thought I bought?

 

Sorry I'm not much help. If you suspect it's the sending unit why not try a different one?

 

Think I figured out the H2O. Probably need a pre-56 King-Seeley sender as it was a Bi-metal unit which was grounded when cold, and bounced open-closed as temp. increased. Now I need to find a source other than $50 at MAC's !

 

$50.00 for a sending unit!!!!!???????? Man WTH! Did they start gold plating those suckers?

 

Still working on the lower valance, but getting close. The upper valance and light panels were not so bad so I got them done. The one light panel had some old ford tar on it still, so, since you couldn't see it....



Then......

Wait for it




Wait for it.....



Took it outside to clean the floor...................







Want to get the nose done, pull the crap out from inside and get back on the '47 !!! (Summer is supposed to be coming! )