I've been reading all the great info on this forum for several months (since before i bought my first PSD back in sept), and i'd just like to thank everyone who's contributed to all the great info and knowhow on the site.

A little background... I needed a truck, and have always wanted a diesel. found a 96 F-250 powerstroke for sale near me with moderate miles (185,000), little/no rust and the extended cab i needed to put a baby seat in the truck on rare occassions. In short, it was exactly what i was looking for: sound mechanicals, but some cosmetic body damage and in need of some minor maintenance such that the price was lower than a nice, clean, new-looking truck. Having a good amount of experience with car rebuilds, but zero diesel experience, i took the truck to a local diesel mechanic for a professional opinion on engine condition. His answer was something along the lines of: "engine and trans look good, it drives and shifts well, has good boost - nothing obviously wrong with it. BUT, you can never be sure that previous owners kept up with the coolant additives to prevent cylinder wall pinhole formation and premature engine failure."

Noting his caution, i took the leap and bought it. then, had him do a quick oil and coolant change while it was still in his shop. Everything's been fine since i've owned the truck, but i have noticed that the dash temp gauge indicates that the engine runs cold. it only ever gets barely into the 'normal range' even after 30 mins of driving. So, i'm thinking the thermostat probably needs replacement. But, to change the t'stat, you have to at least partially drain the coolant. so before doing this, i bought myself some nitrite test strips just to get a baseline on new coolant. ...low and behold, the nitrites test next to nothing, but the molybdates are quite high. so, i do some reading on this site as well as some googling and i'm quite sure the mechanic put Rotella's new Ultra ELC in the engine (its a pale yellow color).

So, question number 1: Is there any new info on Ultra ELC's (extended life coolants) on pre-99 PSD's? I've read quite a few threads stating that ELC's in general will eat away the injector cups, and water pump/front cover seals on the engine, in pre-99 PSDs but most of the posts i see on this are from a few years ago, before Ultra ELC's came out - as best i can tell. Any chance the newer Ultra ELC's are OK with older PSD engine seals and injector cups. and if not, can anyone point me to a ford TSB or other that says to not use this coolant - so i can go to the mechanic, tell him he screwed up and get a few bucks toward the proper coolant? either way, i'm going to play it safe and drain/flush the coolant and going back to the old stuff with SCAs and testing 2x/yr. ...and probably eventually add a coolant filter to pick up the silicates as they fall out of the old-style coolant.

Question 2:
I've noticed harder starts as its been gettinng colder this fall in PA. ...nothing too surprising for an old diesel, but i've been plugging in the block heater (with a timer so it comes on 2 hrs before i leave for work) and its starts right up. its tough to crank on the way home from work, though when colder out (no electric in the work parking lot). i havent been stranded yet, but would like to avoid it - i'm actually travelling for work right now and we'll see if it starts in the airport lot after sitting for 2 days in the cold.
from info on this site, i've checked the glow plug relay and it seems fine. i then checked each glow plug at the valve cover harnesses and when the engine was dead cold exactly half of them read 0 ohms and half read open circuit. So, either my under-valve-cover harnesses are bad and/or half my glow plugs are dead. Sooooo, i'll be pulling the valve covers soon, and replacing all glow plugs and harnesses - with the non-autolite plugs, as i've learned on this site. My question is: while i'm doing this, is there a definitive way to check for cylinder wall pitting/pinholes? i've seen some reference to a glow plug port fitting for pressurizing each cylidner and checking for pressure leakag into the coolant system, but does anyone have the full details on this test - and where to get the fitting? or, can you drop a camera scope into the cylinder and just have a look? any advice is appreciated. I'd like to get an answer as to whether its worth investing time and money in this engine if/when it needs additional work, or if i'm just going to run it till it dies of hydrolock and move on...

Sorry for the long initial post, but its been a long time coming.

Thanks!

 

The sealant on the injector cups will let go first. You might get 15 - 30k before they do, but it seems all of those who tried ended up with diesel in the coolant after thinking they were ok. You won't find anything in writing from Ford saying it's a no-no, but then again you won't find anything from Ford saying you can use the ELC. I'd suggest you call the local International dealer and see if they will give an opinion. Otherwise take the loss and get the coolant flushed on your own dime. Coolant and labor is cheaper than injector cups and labor.

Edit: for your second question, a leak down test won't tell you anything about cavitation unless there are already other symptoms (you would know if you had them). The camera won't work either since the holes would be developing outside the cylinder, not inside.

 

I'm confused does the coolant eat away at the injector cups or the cylinder walls in the block?

 

Neither. The ELC eats away the sealant used on the injector cups so they become loose and begin to leak. The old fashioned coolant can cause cavitation which can create pinholes in the cylinder walls or more likely the front cover if SCA's are not properly maintained.

 

Have heard of very few if any later model powerstroke engines suffering from cavitational porosity. In respect of coolant better to switch it back and put in the DCA additive and filter as you noted. Once you get the glow plugs done put a Stancor GP relay on much better than the stocker, should last WAY longer.

Indications of cavitational porosity include loss of anti-freeze over time (like 3-6 months) initially. In advanced stages white smoke after start-up smell of anti-freeze in exhaust. Lumpy starting meaning progressively slower starting and starter slow down as one, (or more) cylinder partially hydro-locks. White paste residue on inside of oil cap. I don't think you have anything to worry about in terms of Cavitational Porosity just ensure you change out to standard fluid and DCA additive and monitor.

 

Go with the Motorcraft thermostat since yours is stuck open.

Here is a good link to read through.

 

[QUOTE=pjwoolw;10971125]Go with the Motorcraft thermostat since yours is stuck open.

Mine (both trucks) have always ran on the cold side (according to gauge) barely passed the "N" in normal on the gauge. This is with a new stock temp (stancor) thermostat.

 

Thats nice to know. Since all these rigs generally run in that range including mine.

OP if you don't see the temp gauge give a little surge toward the normal range then settle back around the letter N the stat is stuck open. My rig had a hunk of RTV stuck in it keeping it from closing. The Motorcraft thermostat has the gasket integrated onto it eliminating the need for the o ring. Much easier to install. I also changed out the three bolts holding the housing on to allen heads. Also much easier to install. A new housing would be a good idea too.

 

JCart, what is DCA? I thought is was SCA. I've been reading on here for a long time and I'm still confused on what to do exactly and what antifreeze to use. I use the test strips but they are never clear to me what the reading is. Maybe its time for reading glasses, lol.

 

SCA = Supplemental Coolant Additive.
DCA = Diesel Coolant Additive.
The terms are used interchangeably.

 

Glenn, I found some great info on another forum, I'll PM you the link tonight when I get to my computer

 

Why only to him? why not here?

 

Thanks Pete and tshrager I will appreciate it. Don't worry Jose, I'll share one way or another, lol.

 

I know, I know, mi AMIGO
THANKS

 

I can send it to you Jose, just want to stay in the good graces of the forum...