Cheeezit , I tried a few things then had to remove the rail, the stand pipe was in there pretty good, had to yank the **** out of it with a pliers to remove. After I put the rail back on with 2 bolts hand tight and tried to put the lower half of the stand pipe in, there's no way it would have gone in without removing the rail, let alone getting it out that way, so I removed the rail again, I put the pipe in, dropped the rail over the top of it and then bolted the rail and put the upper half in. Where the rail sits in the injector is there any O ring there that could be a problem, or just bolt back up, do the rail bolts need torquing or just crank them, and is red grease OK on the O rings instead of vaseline. Oh also when plugging back in the injectors or any other plugs, should I use some dielectric grease? Ok so I'll remove the larger half of the mount after I finish the nightmare on drivers side.

 

I use luberplate. its a very thin greese. more like assemble lube. I would be carefull on the cranking down on the little bolts they dont like that much.

I dont really ever grease the connectors unless there is a reason to do so.

 

I agree. Those rocker arm carriers are made out of monkey metal. Getting too aggressive with those bolts is only asking for trouble. The best way to handle it, is to start all nine bolts in with fingers, just until they start and turn real easily by finger. You will need to wiggle the rail as all four ball tubes are seated into the tops of the injectors, to get the bolt holes to line up perfectly. Once lined up and all bolts started, then tighten them down carefully. The torque on these bolts is 8 ft-lbs. if I recall correctly, but on a van you're not likely to be able to get any type of tool in there that will remotely resemble a torque wrench so use common sense.

 

I gotta tell ya, this tool I found by accident, it was instrumental in removing ALL the outside (lower) bolts of the valve cover, all except the front lower , which I got from the front with a ratchet, long extension and universal. Anyone taking off a valve cover on a 6.0 needs this tool, it was a lifesaver. Hope it helps someone else. Cheap Too!

Ratchet Ring WRENCH Spanner With T-Handle 12mm | eBay

 

I got my lower stand pipes out by wrapping a bolt with electrical tape larger than the diameter of the inside of the standpipe and pressed it firmly in and I popped both of them out with no more problems. To judge the right thickness, check it against the new stand pipe, if it goes in to easy you need a little more tape. It worked like a charm, also could not get the lower half out because if the fire wall, not matter how I jacked the engine on either side, someone said to raise the body, (not on a para-van in the driveway), but I'm not sure, so instead I drilled a 1/2' hole in the fire wall and extracted and inserted them through there, covered the hole with a over sized washer and 1/4 bolt nut combo. Covered the bold and washer in the engine cavity with aluminum heat tape. If you are you are interested in this method let me know, I'll be happy to send pictures of where to drill. It would have saved me allot of extra work if I had tried it first. Hopefully it will start this weekend.

 

I did something similar, I wrapped the upper part with tape and tried that wouldn't budge, I installed a thicker O ring on it and it was pretty snug, wouldn't budge. So I also figured with the length they looked like they would never come out, with the rail on, thus you drilling holes, so I bit the bullet and removed the rails, 9 bolts, came right out, grabbed the stand pipe with a pliers, it laughed at them. I had to actually put a vice grips on and pull with 2 hands, thats how tight the were in there, it was like the lower O ring was baked to the seat, but at least with the rail removed, which wasn't so bad, I was able to replace it without drilling holes, I don't see any way in hell, even if they did come out in one piece how you get get the lower half in, or out of there without removing the rail, at least on my van or any 06, impossible. So removing the rail is the way to go, or drill holes, IF, you can get the lower half loose enough to pull up thru the rail.

 

Well got everything back together and guess what, it still won't start. So I guess it wasn't the stand pipes or plugs after all. So where to go from here, maybe the STC Fittings or the High pressure oil pump it self. It will run momentarily with a gas wet rag close to the breather tub, which helps if you have ran out of fuel, but it only does for a second. I'm getting plenty of fuel from the fuel pump, but still isn't starting, there has to still be a leak in there somewhere. If you guys have anymore suggestions let me know.

 

I thought you were doing the STC while in there, sucks because you were right there and it's easy in the van right at the back of the motor, I did mine and the IPR screen which is in the same cover. Well hopefully someone else who can diagnose a no start will chime in or I think there is a no start step by step in the tech file or FAQ, I would start there first.

 

Thanks to: bismic Try this, also has a oil pressure check section at the bottom. Good Luck



Troubleshooting a No-Start condition
I have been working on this for awhile. Thought I would post it now and add to it as necessary.

Troubleshooting a NO-START:

1. Pull diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) if you can (you can have codes without a Check Engine Light).

2. Automatic transmission shift lever fully in PARK or NEUTRAL? Try restarting while slightly moving the gearshift lever.

3. If manual, clutch pedal fully pressed?

4. Battery connections (all including grounds) - all good? Alternator cable connections good?

5. Starter relay connections - all good?

6. Glow plug connectors making good connection?

7. Is the starter engaging? Verify starter and ignition switch are working properly.

8. Load test BOTH batteries individually and check the charging system (alternator). PCM needs to see 100 rpm minimum to start IIRC.

9. Fusible links and fuses OK? The FICM relay is labled IDM Relay #304. Check it specifically.

10. Could a factory or aftermarket anti-theft device be causing the problem (Passive Active Theft System - PATS)? Disconnect it if possible. Same w/ a remote start system.

11. Push the reset on the emergency fuel cut-off switch.

12. Any oil pressure registering on the dash pressure gauge (low pressure system)? If not, it could be a bad oil pump (LPOP), a oil filter drain valve stuck open, or a bad oil pressure regulator. You should register oil pressure on the dash gauge in a long crank/ no start condition when the complete oil system is known to be sealed.

13. Check PCM and FICM connections - any wire chaffing? Any Injector harness chaffing? Any ICP or IPR harness chaffing? More detail below.

14. Verify that the oil level is correct and the proper oil and filter have been installed. Oil foaming and loss of viscosity (too thick or fuel diluted) can be an issue. Check oil level for fuel dilution, inspect oil condition, maybe even change oil and filter. Definitely make sure you filled w/ the proper oil.

15. Verify that the air filter is not plugged - Check the filter minder and you may even want to pull the air filter and inspect.

16. Inspect the ICP sensor and harness. Is it oil soaked? Disconnect the ICP and try again. The PCM will establish a default control scheme that would allow the truck to start if the problem were the ICP sensor. Afterwards, make sure the harness is re-installed securely. Also, check ICP circuit fuse.

17. Change both fuel filters, inspect appearance of the fuel when draining the water separator (you could just have bad fuel).
Make sure that the air is purged on start-up. By following the proper (KOEO) cycling procedure before cranking."

18. If you can, verify the fuel pressure (test port is at the base of the secondary fuel filter). Must be over 45 psig.

19. If you have no fuel flow or low pressure, it could be a bad pump (HFCM), OR it could be a plugged fuel filter or plugged lines. You can blow air through the lines to check for plugging. If there is no pluggage, test the pump. First, pull fuse 302 (PCM) and relay 304 (FICM) and then pull the secondary (upper) fuel filter, remove any fuel, and then verify that it is being filled by cranking the engine. As it is being filled, make sure there are no air bubbles. If there are, you have a leak in some connections, the HFCM suction line, or the HFCM o-ring (most likely). Be sure to lube the o-ring w/ oil before re-installing.
TO CHECK FOR SUCTION LINE PLUGGING:
The pump vacuum test is refered to as an ""inlet restriction test"". This will test from the pump to the tank for a restriction. A reading that of more than 6"" H2O vacuum is very bad. 6"" is the max limit. The normal reading is between 2"" and 0"" of H2O.
To do this test you would need to ""T"" a vacuum gauge in between the back of the pump and the line coming into it. If you have a high reading there, then move the T to the tank at the outlet line. If the restriction is still present at the tank, then the problem is in the tank. If there is no restriction at this point, then the issue would be with the supply line to the pump."

20. Pull the oil filter top and have someone crank it while you watch to see if any oil is flowing into the filter housing. If not then it is a LPO problem. Take a long extension and hold down the check valve (round black thing held up by a spring). Have someone crank the engine. The housing should fill within about 10 seconds of cranking.

21. If possible, verify high pressure oil pressure (ICP sensor) - must be over 500 psig to fire the injectors. See link below.

22. Pull the EGR valve and inspect. Clean if dirty. Check the strength of the spring. Consider replacing it - just because. Also clean the MAP sensor hose and the EBP tube. These may cause surging and hard start, but a long shot for a no-start.

23. Troubleshoot the glow plug system (you need a clamp on inductive ammeter). Test each glow plug module wire bundle separately, then test each glow plug. Look for any amperages lower on one side or lower to an individual glow plug. From each module you should see 200 A at first dropping quickly to 35-37 A if the GPCM is OK. Both modules should read apprx. the same. Each glow plug will draw 8-10 A. Or you could check the resistance in each glow plug - should be less than 1 ohm.

24. Carry out the KOEO Injector Electrical Self-Test (Click Test) and the bubble test.

25. Check the Crank (CKP) and Cam (CMP) sensor wiring harnesses.

26. Check the FICM voltage - see post #27 below.

Wire Chaffing Locations:
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...ad.php?t=58336
FICM and ICP harness recall
DTS Technical Photos - Fuel System
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-05-13.php
http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-05-11.php
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...harness+recall

mms://multimedia.ford.com/seopts/Tech12_250k.wmv
(in the link above you may have to copy and past the address in your web browser to access the video from Ford.

h t t p://turbodieselforums.com/downloads/6.0L%20wire%20chafing.pdf
(copy and paste the URL above in your browser - without the spaces in http)
h t t p://turbodieselforums.com/downloads/Econoline%20Wire%20Chafe.pdf
(copy and paste the URL above in your browser - without the spaces in http)

TROUBLESHOOT THE HPO PRESSURE SYSTEM:
Strictly Diesel Webstore
Strictly Diesel Webstore

Determinimg if the ICP sensor is seeing 500 psig minimum (see post #23 in link below):
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/86...not-start.html
If possible, you can pull the ICP and install a pressure gauge to check the pressure in the “high pressure oil system”. Crank the engine and watch the pressure. You need 500 psig to start. The fitting needed for this is the same as that for the fuel pressure test port.
Here is a way of checking to see if you have sufficient high pressure oil without having a gauge or adapter. Strip back the wires about an inch away from the icp sensor connector. Obtain a digital multimeter and set it for voltage (DC). The bn-wh wire is a five volt reference, leave that alone. Strip back the db-lg signal wire and the gy-rd ground wire. Put positive lead on a dark blue-light green wire and negative lead on gray-red wire. Have an assistant crank truck, you need a minimum of 0.80 volts (500 psi) for the truck to start, if you are getting greater than that then you have sufficient high pressure oil.

To check your ipr and hp oil system:
1. Get an ipr connector from Ford and put 2 long wires on the end, plug it into the ipr. Later you will attach the 2 long leads to b+ and negative ...... this will close the ipr.

2. Then remove your icp sensor (04.25 and up truck??) from the passenger side valve cover and thread a fitting in with an air fitting on the end (so you can apply compressed air to the hp oil system).

3. Remove your oil fill cap, your intake up to the turbo (get the ccv out of the valve cover at least), and the hot side cac tube.

4. Then, command the IPR closed for only 30 seconds, apply 100psi air to the hp oil system and listed to where the leak is coming from.

When you hear it you've found your problem....that is assuming you have a hp oil problem.
If your building low and high oil pressure fine, then you've just wasted your time.

Generally on no-start conditions that are related to "high pressure oil" leaks, the vehicle will still develop low pressure system pressures. However, the plug on the H.P. oil feed can occasionally blow out, the H.P. pump seal can blow out, and on the '03-04 trucks the ball on the side of the H.P. pump blow out - causing loss of base oil pressure.

Hard start - no start conditions related to the HPOP could be attributed to the following components in the high poressure oil system (air test while hot will determine the root cause):
h t t p://www.*******.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11583
(leave the spaces out of http and where the asterisks are insert the word "ford truck fanatics" with no spaces)
Faulty IPR valve
Leaking snap-to-connect (STC) fitting (05 and up model years)
Leaky or cracked branch tube
Leak with the stand pipe
Leaky or cracked oil rail (including oil rail end caps/plugs)
Leak in the d-rings of the oil rail front port plugs (or dummy plugs)
Leaky o-ring on an injector; or leak at the top of the injector where the ball tube from the high pressure oil rail connects to the injector.
Weak or failed HPOP itself
Low base oil pressure (failed oil pressure regulator).
Low base oil pressure (bad low pressure oil pump - LPOP).

Post #4 below has a low pressure oil test procedure

Post #16 below has another reference to a no-start checklist

One easy check for injector problems: SEE POST #17 below
"When injectors fail, it is possible for combustion gasses to flow into the fuel system and displace the fuel. The gasses come through the pintle seat and into the fuel galley in the head and up into the fuel filter.

Crank Shaft Position Sensor (CKP)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/al...ictureid=15905
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/al...ictureid=15906
http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_h.../Page_052.html
Cam Shaft Position Sensor (CMP)
http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_h.../Page_010.html
http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_h.../Page_053.html
__________________
Mark
06 F250 CC SB FX4 Lariat; ARP studs; OEM gaskets; Banks exhaust; DynaTrac Ball joints; Coolant filter; High-Idle mod;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax transfer case;Fumoto valve;Harpooned;LineX;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers; updated EGR valve;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;Dieselsite boots;DCPower250A;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's; BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;BilletWaterPump;SCT

 

Tell me the valve covers do not have to come off again to do a STC update? I don't remember seeing anything about that. Oh well if it does, I started with the Stand Pipes because others had told me that it was most likely the issue. Let me know, I thought you could get to all the STC parts from under the HPOP? Correct me if I am wrong. Thanks

 

Okay, I'm a little confused here. So what have you done so far? I am directing this question to electrified66. As I understand things, you have installed the updated dummy rail plugs and standpipes, is that correct? If so, assuming everything is back together correctly, how long did you crank the engine over for, attempting to start it? Have you replaced the STC fitting yet? If not, in answer to your question NO the valve covers do not require removal to access and replace. You will need to remove the turbo and pedestal, as well as the oil supply/return lines to gain access to the high pressure oil pump.

 

hahahah Mike see how nervous he got when he thought the valve covers would have to come off again, I don't friggin blame him, my drivers side is done, passenger is going back together tomorrow, thank god! Electrified, the STC is a walk in the park on a van, hope thats it. Or maybe like Mike is saying, you may have not cranked enough to get the oil going, and you'll get off easy, good luck either way.

 

I thought the intake had to be moved out of the way to get the HPOP cover off?

 

NOPE. Don't scare the OP off more than he already was, thinking the valve covers would have to come off again. The intake doesn't need to come off to access the HPOP on either E-Series or F-Series.

 

M-chan68, I do have it all back together and I have cranked the van enough to have the batteries go down twice. Not sure if there is anything you recommend for me to try. And no I wasn't scared about the valve covers coming off, I was just throwing up the BS flag, because I had intrusted those helping me here were giving me the best information possible. All the vids I have seen never indicated removal of the valve covers to do a STC update. I did try the gasoline wet rag close to the air intake filter and it did light off for few seconds until the vapors were gone, I tried this twice and twice it worked for a moment. I am getting plenty of fuel to the fuel filter bowl. I can not think of anything else that might prevent it from starting. If you have any tips or tricks to starting an engine after a Standpipe/dummy plugs change please let me know, if it is difficult to get one to start then I can keep try. I have extra batteries to use when those are on the charger. I do appreciate all the information that everyone has shared and apologize if I am less knowledgeable about this particular engine, but I will get it running eventually.