I don't know where to start
#1
I don't know where to start
My truck runs like poo. Truck in sig below with 170K mi. Has always had a pretty rough idle, terrible 2-3 shift (Jody said I may need a reflash to fix a timing issue), and recently the go pedal has a mind of it's own. At times under part throttle, the truck will just take off on it's own. Other times under half throttle it will fall on it's face. I plan to remove the pedal assy and use lots of contact cleaner to fix the accel problem.
SES light stays on after starting for about 2 minutes but not every time.
I scanned with AE and got the following:
B1352 I've read this is a random "ghost" code and not a big deal
P0470
P0475
P0478 Probably all from my EBV delete. Even thought I put a 470 ohm resistor in there I still get codes.
P1118 IAT sensor circuit low. Monitoring my IAT with AE looks normal. It stays within 3 degrees of ambient so I'm at a loss there.
P1211 only shows when I run it in a hot tune, so not really concerned there.
I'm wondering if I should just bite the bullet and buy a new IPR. I graphed my ICP voltage, pressure, and accel pedal position. Pedal position looks uniform, but the truck didn't take off or fall on it's face while graphing. I did notice that the ICP pressure looks like a square wave whether accelerating or idling. Comparing to the ICP voltage, it looks like the pressure keeps surging.
I don't really know how to use AE other than the generic tests and how to monitor gauges. Any help to get me headed in the right direction is appreciated.
SES light stays on after starting for about 2 minutes but not every time.
I scanned with AE and got the following:
B1352 I've read this is a random "ghost" code and not a big deal
P0470
P0475
P0478 Probably all from my EBV delete. Even thought I put a 470 ohm resistor in there I still get codes.
P1118 IAT sensor circuit low. Monitoring my IAT with AE looks normal. It stays within 3 degrees of ambient so I'm at a loss there.
P1211 only shows when I run it in a hot tune, so not really concerned there.
I'm wondering if I should just bite the bullet and buy a new IPR. I graphed my ICP voltage, pressure, and accel pedal position. Pedal position looks uniform, but the truck didn't take off or fall on it's face while graphing. I did notice that the ICP pressure looks like a square wave whether accelerating or idling. Comparing to the ICP voltage, it looks like the pressure keeps surging.
I don't really know how to use AE other than the generic tests and how to monitor gauges. Any help to get me headed in the right direction is appreciated.
#3
P0470 is an EBP (Exhaust Back Pressure) sensor code. Test drive while using AE to read EBP. If the EBP isn't raising and falling as the RPMS rise and fall then it could be a bad or clogged EBPS or the tube has a crack or is clogged. Also check the EBPS connector and wiring. LINK
P1118 Is MAT (manifold air temp) sensor. That is the one in the spider. It reads the intake temp air after it has gone through the intercooler. Also can give a P1119. IAT (intake air temp) sensor is the one in the lower back side of stock air filter box. IAT sensor can give codes P0112 and P0113. Using AE read both these parameters simultaneously when the engine is cold. They should read the same temp or be very, very close.
Wierd ICP readings and Throtte response. Before replacing IPR make sure the nut holding the IPR solenoid is tight. If so remove the IPR connector by lifting up on the wire retaining clip. Make sure the connector is dry and clean and the wires look good. Remove the nut and slide the spacer and solenoid off. The solenoid connector should also be clean and dry. Using a DVOM check the resistance of the solenoid winding. It should be aproximately 10.2 to 10.6 ohms. Whatever it is between those 2 readings it should be a steady reading and not moving up and down. If the reading fluctuates or out of range the winding is bad.
Any of the above can cause poor performance an all three together certainly will.
P0475 and 478 Bad wiring connection or resistor. Check the resistor ohm reading. You did put the reisitor on the connector and not the solenoid. Just checking.
B1352 No detection of key in ignition. I never had the code before doing the door open key in ignition chime delete which removes the ability of PCM to sense the key in the ignition and hence the chime is defeated when door is open with key in ignition. Or it's just that the small flat spring contact in the key cylinder no longer makes contact with the key.
P1118 Is MAT (manifold air temp) sensor. That is the one in the spider. It reads the intake temp air after it has gone through the intercooler. Also can give a P1119. IAT (intake air temp) sensor is the one in the lower back side of stock air filter box. IAT sensor can give codes P0112 and P0113. Using AE read both these parameters simultaneously when the engine is cold. They should read the same temp or be very, very close.
Wierd ICP readings and Throtte response. Before replacing IPR make sure the nut holding the IPR solenoid is tight. If so remove the IPR connector by lifting up on the wire retaining clip. Make sure the connector is dry and clean and the wires look good. Remove the nut and slide the spacer and solenoid off. The solenoid connector should also be clean and dry. Using a DVOM check the resistance of the solenoid winding. It should be aproximately 10.2 to 10.6 ohms. Whatever it is between those 2 readings it should be a steady reading and not moving up and down. If the reading fluctuates or out of range the winding is bad.
Any of the above can cause poor performance an all three together certainly will.
P0475 and 478 Bad wiring connection or resistor. Check the resistor ohm reading. You did put the reisitor on the connector and not the solenoid. Just checking.
B1352 No detection of key in ignition. I never had the code before doing the door open key in ignition chime delete which removes the ability of PCM to sense the key in the ignition and hence the chime is defeated when door is open with key in ignition. Or it's just that the small flat spring contact in the key cylinder no longer makes contact with the key.
#4
So nice to have this resource!! I guess it's time to re-up subscription fee.
EBP reads flat all the time, so I'm on my way to get a tube and sensor from the Ford house. Might as well get the MAT sensor for $27.00 while I'm there. I have to go to the house and let the truck cool off before I test as you described. I wonder how many bud lights that will take. I did install the resistor in the pigtail, but should check for good contact anyway. I will also verify the resistance with my holmes-meter. Funny thing is that I also put a 470 ohm resistor between the blue wire on the AIH relay and ground and still get the AIH circuit low code on the KOEO test. Thanks for the help sir! Will post results later.
EBP reads flat all the time, so I'm on my way to get a tube and sensor from the Ford house. Might as well get the MAT sensor for $27.00 while I'm there. I have to go to the house and let the truck cool off before I test as you described. I wonder how many bud lights that will take. I did install the resistor in the pigtail, but should check for good contact anyway. I will also verify the resistance with my holmes-meter. Funny thing is that I also put a 470 ohm resistor between the blue wire on the AIH relay and ground and still get the AIH circuit low code on the KOEO test. Thanks for the help sir! Will post results later.
#5
#6
Mike,
With KOEO EBP should read ambient baro pressure and should closely match Manifold Absolute Pressure, 14.7 PSI at sea level. .
EBP sensors can be had on ebay for 1/3 the price of a dealer. Maybe less. Or get it from PartsGuyEd at a savings. Same goes for the EBPS tube and the MAT sensor.
Before you buy a MAT sensor do the comparison with the IAT.
Don't neglect to check the IPR solenoid.
With KOEO EBP should read ambient baro pressure and should closely match Manifold Absolute Pressure, 14.7 PSI at sea level. .
EBP sensors can be had on ebay for 1/3 the price of a dealer. Maybe less. Or get it from PartsGuyEd at a savings. Same goes for the EBPS tube and the MAT sensor.
Before you buy a MAT sensor do the comparison with the IAT.
Don't neglect to check the IPR solenoid.
#7
I'd really like to get this knocked out tonight if possible. I appreciate the "hookup". I really don't have time to let the truck cool before I have to get to the parts house. I'm pretty sure I can return the MAT if unopened. Will definately do the IPR checks you suggested. Truck is still uncomfortable warm right now. Can I expect any performance or economy gain after EBP repair?
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#8
#9
#10
Mike,
With KOEO EBP should read ambient baro pressure and should closely match Manifold Absolute Pressure, 14.7 PSI at sea level. .
EBP sensors can be had on ebay for 1/3 the price of a dealer. Maybe less. Or get it from PartsGuyEd at a savings. Same goes for the EBPS tube and the MAT sensor.
Before you buy a MAT sensor do the comparison with the IAT.
Don't neglect to check the IPR solenoid.
With KOEO EBP should read ambient baro pressure and should closely match Manifold Absolute Pressure, 14.7 PSI at sea level. .
EBP sensors can be had on ebay for 1/3 the price of a dealer. Maybe less. Or get it from PartsGuyEd at a savings. Same goes for the EBPS tube and the MAT sensor.
Before you buy a MAT sensor do the comparison with the IAT.
Don't neglect to check the IPR solenoid.
With KOEO I get 95 degrees MAT and 78.8 degrees IAT.
#11
#12
You can also look at the ICP pressure reading.
This will help you understand what is going on.
#13
EBP Sensor is garbage. Get a reading on the new one just by plugging it into the connector and before installing it in the fitting.
What elevation are you at. My MAP reading is around 12.2 at 5000'.
#15
That AE has already started to pay for itself.