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Rebuilt turbo/ question about parts and PYRO gauge.

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Old 10-18-2011, 11:35 PM
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Rebuilt turbo/ question about parts and PYRO gauge.

Well I knew I can't drive with bad turbo anymore.

It had very bad side to side but had ZERO play on push and pull. I don't think wheel touch housing but how I know if it touch housing? Rubbing on it?


I think I should get new wheel on it because stock one look to be very little dusted out which cause by PO who broke air filter housing.

Someone say I can't change wheel because it need to be precious balance. Anyone agree with that?

I am look at this one. It correct wheel? Garrett Turbo Compressor Wheel, Ford (1994-2003) 7.3L, TP38 & GTP38


How to install pyro on this one? Which is best located? Exhaust manifold? It ok to had metal shaving fall inside when Drill and tap?


Here picture of wheel in turbo. Look bad or it worn out? Edges on that aren't sharp like couple people here report sharp edge on dusted out wheel.

 
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:41 PM
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To install a pyro, the best place is the exhaust manifold on the drivers side. To get the shavings out you can use a paper clip and a magnet.

Unfold the paper clip and run it across the magnet in one direction, pick it up and run it back across the magnet in the same direction. Do that multiple times. DO NOT rub it back and forth. It must always move across the magnet in only one direction. Then fold the paper clip into an L shape and stick it in the hole. You should collect some shavings.
 
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:42 PM
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Very hard to see in that picture if it has been rubbing. Were you experiencing surge? The link you posted is to a "Wicked Wheel" anti surge wheel. Clay at Riffraff Diesel sells one as well, that comes with an install kit including the orings. Balancing the entire shaft, I personally don't see the need...

Riffraff Diesel: Borg Warner Anti-Surge Compressor Wheel

If you grease the drill bit and tap, you will get very little shavings inside of the manifold. Most install the pyro on the drivers side manifold just before it connects to the up pipe. you could vacuum out the manifold after drilling or remove the up pipe if you were really worried. But I wouldn't be.
 
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:50 PM
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Used to get random surge. I been watch boost I think when it cold it WORST but that just me.

After replaced 2 injectors and 2 injectors o-rings on driver side and new CPS now I been watch boost it stop doing random surge but still start surge at almost 15 or above psi. Before that it would start at 12 or higher.



I thought about put magnet on exhaust manifold and drill half way then add grease then drill at very slow rpm so it would work? I think I vacuum when it disconnected.

On RiffRaff I didn't notice that they include those. Kinda pricey but I will figure out to able afford that from him. Hoping to order from him on weekend.
 
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Milwaukee1979F150
Used to get random surge. I been watch boost I think when it cold it WORST but that just me.

After replaced 2 injectors and 2 injectors o-rings on driver side and new CPS now I been watch boost it stop doing random surge but still start surge at almost 15 or above psi. Before that it would start at 12 or higher.



I thought about put magnet on exhaust manifold and drill half way then add grease then drill at very slow rpm so it would work? I think I vacuum when it disconnected.

On RiffRaff I didn't notice that they include those. Kinda pricey but I will figure out to able afford that from him. Hoping to order from him on weekend.
Don't over think drilling the manifold, it isn't a big issue. Don't use anything like grease, just drill the hole, tap it and then if you want stick a magnet in there to grab the fillings. You won't hurt anything so don't stress about it.

On the compressor wheel, that link is incorrect in calling it a Garrett as it is manufactured by Borg Warner and always has been even back in the 94.5-99 stock turbos. I would like to offer it cheaper but because we include turbo/pedestal orings as well as the compressor housing oring it raises the price. We also only sell genuine Borg Warner wheels, not cheap Chinese knock offs like we are seeing a lot these days.

Give me a call if you have any questions and I will talk you through it. I might also have a used compressor wheel I can give you if you are on hard times.
 
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:19 PM
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Alright I could see that. Do you think I should replaced that wheel fin?

I just did another test this noon to see what boost. It really weird. When cold let engine warm half It would max 15 psi no surge. After drive 10 miles then try again It hit 20 psi for like 2 sec then start surge little. It fluctuation about 1-2 psi. It rain and 50oF in Michigan.

I don't know how to troubleshoot this one.

I am look for youtube video on here that had turbo surge I want compare to mine if it same or not.

RiffRaff thank for info I am going try save $ and buy from you. I think new wheel fin more safe than gamble with used wheel fin. Then end have to rebuilt again later.

Thank Dan
 
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:23 PM
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The differences in cold versus warm could be in the fuel timing I do not know, but it is slightly restricted until up to temp.

Is this the video you are thinking of? Best I know of showing surge.

1999 Ford F350 7.3 Compressor Surge - YouTube
 
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by BigAlsPSD
The differences in cold versus warm could be in the fuel timing I do not know, but it is slightly restricted until up to temp.

Is this the video you are thinking of? Best I know of showing surge.

1999 Ford F350 7.3 Compressor Surge - YouTube

Yes I would say it almost alike. Is that bad? What cause that? Worn out bushing and bad wheel?
 
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Milwaukee1979F150
Yes I would say it almost alike. Is that bad? What cause that? Worn out bushing and bad wheel?
Also, make sure its not turbo STALL something entirely different. Turbo stall is not bad for the turbo. Turbo surge on the other hand is very bad.

Turbo Stall - F250 7.3 Powerstroke - YouTube
 
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:50 PM
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If it is surge Yes it is bad, basically drive pressure on the exhaust side of the turbo is spinning at too high of a ratio, causing the compressor side to not have anywhere to relieve the boost, actually causing the turbo to rapidly stop and start in effect. Also causing the pressure on the drive side to push the shaft assembly towards the lower pressure.
 
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:09 PM
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I have see one picture of shaft broke in HALF it destroy housing.

I was talk to friend on FB he from other state.

He say that 99-03 had stock wheel that doesn't had anti surge. He claim that what cause turbo go bad.

I thought but does that stock wheel harder on bushing because it push more boost= wear out bushing?

He say install wicked wheel on that and rebuilt it will work fine.
 
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:22 PM
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It will work fine with a wicked wheel, that's what I did to remedy surge, there are better options with housings. Some late trucks never surge, mine did. With the wicked wheel you essentially flow less air so it helps most people.
 
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Old 10-20-2011, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by BigAlsPSD
It will work fine with a wicked wheel, that's what I did to remedy surge, there are better options with housings. Some late trucks never surge, mine did. With the wicked wheel you essentially flow less air so it helps most people.

Alright I think I would order new wicked wheel and rebuilt kit. I pray surge go away.

I did video 2 times on boost gauge so you able see what I am try describe.

First video were little colder engine I would say 140-160oF drove 3 miles at 25 mph then up 65 mph on highway. Outside temp were 45oF rain

Second video were fully warm up from doing errands in cities 20 miles. Notice it wasn't flaution badly now but it would flaution badly when outside were 70oF.

2000 F350 7.3L turbo trouble - YouTube


October 20, 2011 4:44 PM - YouTube
 
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Old 10-20-2011, 05:16 PM
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i think your pegging your boost gauge. I really couldnt tell if there was a problem. It seemed when the needle "dumped" is when you let off on your foot.
 
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Old 10-20-2011, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76
i think your pegging your boost gauge. I really couldnt tell if there was a problem. It seemed when the needle "dumped" is when you let off on your foot.

Yes when you see needle go down smooth that I am off on gas pedal.
 


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