ipr duty cycle is 85% so youre right which i suspected. ive heard you can rebuild this pump and where do i get one of the fitting repair kits? would you rebuild the pump if it's just the fitting thats the problem?

 

I don't know of any pump rebuild kits. Here are the Ford and IH part numbers for the STC fitting kit and the IPR valve.

STC Kit 4C3Z-9B246-F 1879930c91
IPR (05-07) # 5C3Z-9C968-CA 1846057C1

There are several places to purchase the STC kit: partsguyed.com, tousley ford, or ebay.

It's very common for the STC fitting to go bad on an 05 and very UNcommon for the pump to be bad. You can remove the ICP sensor and air test the system to help eliminate a leak in an oil rail or stand pipe (under the valve cover).

The IPR is possibly bad. You'll have to remove it to remove the pump cover anyway. I'd actually remove and check it FIRST. If the screen is compromised replace the valve and try to start it before the STC fitting. If it still doesn't start then...........

 

thanks so much for your help and the ford dealership down the road has the stc fitting number in stock so ill keep my fingers crossed and keep ya posted on what it is.

where exactly is this stc fitting on the pump?

 

It screws directly into the pump. There are instructions included in the kit, along with a turbo gasket kit. The STC fitting jam nut requires a crows foot (don't recall the size) to achieve the proper torque.

 

I had same problem with my truck bout 2 months ago. It was my IRP valve. I was only getting 252 psi while cracking. Replaced the IRP an my truck started an ran fine.

 

well im bout to pull it apart and i will let you know what it is when i get there. thanks again for all the help and feedback.

 

ok so i pulled the ipr out and the screeen is still stuck in the pump which isnt a big deal to get out but there was def some stuff in the ipr. it's black sut. on my way to ford to get a new one, luckily they have one in stock and im goin to change the stc fitting while i have it down this far.

 

Well baller I hope that fixed it for you, just to let you know and what i have experinced with my truck not starting, the first time it wouldnt crank it was the FICM went bad, the next time it wouldnt start, it got broke into and they stole the radio and garmin, so i had the guys from the radio house come and get my truck, and i guess he wanted to be Kenny Berstien and do and all out burn outand it blowed the FREEZE PLUG out of the HIGH PRESSURE OIL PUMP, which what would happen when it did crank, while ideling the oil pressure gauge would fall to ZERO but would still idle,(for a min) had to have a new HIGH PRESSURE OIL PUMP INSTALLED,(WATCH WHO DRIVES YOUR TRUCK LOL) and the last time was just last week I put an EGR DELETE kit on and a new OIL COOLER and got everything put back together and what do you know NO START, i pullerd the IPR and the screen was completly clogged up popped the screen off and cleaned the IPR and screen put it back in and the truck started right up, BUT I COULD NOT HAVE DONE ALL OF THIS WITHOUT THE HELP OF THESE GUYS ON THIS FORUM, THANKS GUYS..Hope this helps you..Good Luck

 

The IPR screen being restricted/plugged after an oil cooler job is common - it is due to not being as clean as you needed to be during the repair job. It is hard to be clean enough BTW, so not trying to "pass judgement" on your work. If you suck up stuff through the screen, the valve (IPR) will eventually fail.

 

ok, it was the ipr valve. 940 at idle on icp valve and same value on the desired and it goes way up when you give it gas and both values are the same. still kinda starts up a lil slow imo and doesnt build boost like i think it should. what does a stock truck boost to? the turbo isnt a high pitch like usual, sometimes it's more like a whining noise. any suggestions?

on a side note the previous owner before he sold it to me they were thinking the oil pump was goin out and they put mystic 15w40 and 4 or 5 quarts of lucas tryin to make the oil thick. is this a problem?

 

Glad you got 'er running...

I would change your oil to a lighter weight if you want smoother running initially. Also, lot folks don't like the Lucas stuff - apparently it foams in these motors. This motor is pretty sensitive to oil types. A lot of guys run Rotella T6 5W-40 syn in the cooler months, I run it all year. ~ $21 per gallon at Wally World. USe Racor or Motorcraft filters. Oil is a religious discussion around these parts, so be prepared for a lot of suggestions. But I would defnitely change the oil, the previous owners "solution" won't help a failing HPOP.

28 PSI is max on the turbo.

 

Double post removed

 

i will go change the oil right now and thats the max but is that what it makes when it's stock? it seems to run better when ive been driving a bit and im wondering if it has anything to do with that thick oil loosening up. im open and appreciative of any help, suggestions, or someone thinkin im an idiot lol im asking cause i dont know and you guys have obviously been through what im goin through

 

Yes, it will definitely run A LOT better when it's warm because of the thick oil that's in there now.

Recommend changing fuel filters too right now. Ford or Racor. Home - Diesel Filters,Additives,brake rotors, and brake pads for Chevy, Dodge and Ford Diesel Trucks has great prices.

Stock turbo max boost is 28 PSI. When you're cruising at 55 - 65 - you should see maybe 2- 5 PSI. Pulling a tractor, it would run about 10 - 15 on level ground at those speeds.

The only idiots around here are the ones that don't come and ask questions... I learn something new every day here.

 

ok so i changed the vtc sensor from a truck that runs good and same year. start it up and pull onto the street and initial hit it went to about 25lbs of boost and ran awesome but then on the way back it went back to the way it was. im thinkin this oil has something to do with it. from a stop the truck takes off ok but has no ***** on once you get goin