I was thinking of poly too but was worried about all the static it presents when air pass across it? I like the cheap filter system but does it work to keep out the fine dust when painting?

 

Have just primed so far, will find out Wed. Thurs. When we finish.

 

Started working on the doors. Well, at least got them out of storage. got this one stripped down but it was hit and will take more bondo than the drivers side door. The Universal electric window regulator is going to be a pain. Wish I'd gotten the mid-fifty unit that bolts into the original window regulator position.

I just noticed tonight that the drivers door doesn't have a key lock. And I can't see any sign of a patch form the inside so it doesn't look like it ever had one. What's up with that?

 

Hey Dan,
Yeah that driver's side lock thing is one of the oddities from the 50's.
They didn't want you parallel parking and opening your door into traffic so you locked it from the inside & slide across the seat & get out on the passenger side. That's odd huh. The vaccum windshield wipers are another fun one.

Ben in Austin

 

Working on the doors but it's going very slow. Took the whole family to Medford for Christmas. All the kids and all the freight and I had to use the old minivan and that had to have the oil changed, trans oil changed, coolant flushed, and vacuumed out. I did get some help from my son over Thanksgiving week. I had welded a large patch panel into the drivers side door. I thought that one was pretty good shape until I ground a half inch of bondo off. After welding the 10" x 10" patch panel in it was still very low so my son helped me hammer it out. It's tough getting the dolly up inside the door and run hammer by yourself.

I finished fitting the elect window regulators and removed all the paint and blasted the drivers side door. Then I sprayed rustoleum red oxide primer till is was dripping out in the window channel and flipped the door over to get the inside of the A and B piller coated (I think). then I slathered rust bullet in the bottom.


The passenger door has a lot of rust through in the bottom. The PO brazed some of the holes and I should cut it all out and weld in a patch panel but I'm running out of steam on this project and want to get it running. I can always get another door and do it right later. I slathered plenty of rust bullet in the bottom and will spray the top end like I did the other door.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=88809

I should do more cleaning on the inside of the passenger door before priming it.

 

Hey Dan,
Our doors were also very rough along the bottom ten inches. If you looked down the window channel it looked like swiss cheese. We looked hard for better doors but it was not happening so... Made a mold on the bottom of the door & poured fiberglass down in there & let it harden - sanded it down. The outcome wasn't too bad - a strange approach but it worked.

Ben in Austin

 

Progress is glacial at best. Finally finished with bondo and priming the doors.


It helps a little to look at photos of where I was a year ago.

 

Looking good dan, yes it helps me looking at the photos of mine a year ago too.It seems to be taking me forever but when I look at them or show them to somebody at work they say.....man that truck has came a long way since you started! And I keep on keeping on.

Mine will have a chevy motor/trans. too, same reasoning....maybe one of these days after I'm done with it I will be able to build me a ford motor.

 

You have a very nice project going there, but I'm jealous of your shop. Yes, a FoMoCoRacing drive train would be nice. Recently I was looking at a guys new F150 Eco Boost. That's what I want someday in my F100 but might need to start buying lottery tickets.

 

I gotta be honest, I love this site but I've been to nervous to post pics and ask to many questions because I too went the dark side and used the "other" motor and a few parts. It's great that you guys are supportive one way or the other. Your truck looks great by the way, good job keep up the good work!!!!

 

thanks BITRODIUM for the compliment. I hear ya but I find most active members here are pretty cool about what others are doing and always nice when they are critical. I've always been clear here on the forum that my prime directive is low budget. I have a little under $300 into my drive train. $100 for the 77 Chevy wagon, 700 R4 from a friend at work for free (he even helped me pull it out of the Astrovan that his son rolled), $122 for the drive shaft, $40 for a pair of stainless flowmasters from U-pull-it, and $20 for a new ignition module for the HEI distributor that I blew up when I hooked up the battery backwards (maybe I should wire up a diode). I'm hoping to be less than $5000 total when I'm done (with phase 1). And good luck on your project.

Hey, I'm not all dark side. Seat belts are from the back seat of a Aerostar.

 

Ok, here's my hair brained idea. My "paint booth" is too small and I want to paint all of both doors so I hung the doors on a home made stand made from some scrap steel.

 

Scrap steel.......those look good enuf to sale.

 

I often hang big panels that way, as in vertical, because its a great way to reduce the amount of crap that seems to instantly fall in fresh new paint. Works for me....

John

 

Waiting for parts from mid-fifty to assemble my doors so I worked on an electric window switch. These cost almost $200 so I made my own using 2 $5 switches, 4 springs and some 1/16" plate. BTW, I'd probably prefer the original mechanical crank windows but my regulates were shot and several years ago my son went and bought the "universal" electric window kit so the cheapest way out was to do this. See my album for some description and more photos.