1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: DP Tuner

looking to buy a 99-02 f250/350 4x4 7.3l what year was the best?

  #1  
Old 10-13-2011, 09:46 PM
F-WhiteThunder's Avatar
F-WhiteThunder
F-WhiteThunder is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 186
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
looking to buy a 99-02 f250/350 4x4 7.3l what year was the best?

was there a better year for the last of the 7.3L? different trans? what should i look for ? looking for a 4 door or the half door F250/350 4x4 automatic 7.3L any advice shoot...........
 
  #2  
Old 10-13-2011, 10:15 PM
A/Ox4's Avatar
A/Ox4
A/Ox4 is offline
9 ECHO 1

Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Missouri
Posts: 12,449
Received 35 Likes on 30 Posts
Generally speaking the later the better. More bugs are resolved as they get further along. As far as the motor itself, there are no big changes from 99.5 up to 2003 but there are small things here and there. Mostly cosmetic and driver comfort things. There are a few changes from early 99 to 99.5 however. The e99 had less power due to a smaller turbo, and smaller injectors, as well as a few other things. The easiest way to identify a e99 is the side molding, on a e99 it extends to the bed, on a 99.5+ it is only on the doors. There are other ways to identify an e99 if the side molding has been remove.

All 99-2003.25 trucks have the same automatic transmission, the 4r100. The 2001 4r100 does have a flaw, known as a mechanical diode. This can be fixed. In general the 4r100 is considered a slightly sub-par transmission, but with enough care it will go the distance for you. There is a manual option, and that transmission is very stout.

The most important thing for you to look for will be maintenance. There are a few things to look for. When you pop the hood check the coolant color. Green means it is the same type of coolant that came from the factory. It it is green chances are it has not been changed, not a big deal by itself. However, if it is red, that is ELC (Extended Life Coolant). This meant that the owner took the time to change it and went the extra mile and bought "the good stuff." The reason I say to check coolant is because its easy and noninvasive, meaning you can just see it. No dip sticks or anything. Obviously check ATF and oil levels and color once you get comfortable with the seller.

Also look for leaks. The 7.3 is a leaky motor, but that doesnt excuse excessive leaks. Oil gets everywhere on this motor. The engine compartment will likely be covered in a oily substance. That is normal. Check for the smell of diesel in the engine compartment, fuel leaks are not uncommon, but are also easy to fix. Just something to be aware of.

Start her up. Floor is. You need to know how that engine responds to stress. Watch the tail pipe. Black smoke means too much fuel (some black smoke is normal), which may mean something wrong in the intake system, such as a turbo going bad. White smoke means oil or coolant being burned. Not good, thats an injector job right there, and thats money unless you want to do it on your own.

Just give the engine a good look over. The things I like to look over are the little things. I'm not talking about scratches. Its a truck, it should have scratches. I'm talking about details; Is there a spare? Is is in good condition? Is it inflated? Good, the owner probably checked on it once in a while. Also, check simple things air filter is a good one. Check out the brake pedal. Look at the wear pattern on the lower right corner. The bigger this bald spot, the more its been used, for a low mileage motor that means a lot of city driving. Are any bulbs burnt out? A good owner changes his bulbs, even the ones that dont matter. Look at the seats. Is the drivers seat worn on the outside edge? Another indicator of city driving in low mileage motors. Open the glove box (with permission). Just glance. Anything special? Manual? Fuses? Both of those indicate a prepared caring owner. Carpet stains? Some stains are ok, excessive stains means he didnt care much.

Also, check the trip odometer. If its electronic and reads 0.0 be suspicious. That means the battery was JUST reset, probably to hide a check engine light.

Hope some of that is helpful!
 
  #3  
Old 10-13-2011, 10:18 PM
snakedoc's Avatar
snakedoc
snakedoc is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: AL, Reform
Posts: 4,006
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
99-01 have forged rods better than the 02-03 had PMR.
some of the 01 autos had a problem and die fast.
02-03 more comfort options.
my 99 had all aluminum IC where the 02 has plastic ends.
 
  #4  
Old 10-13-2011, 10:20 PM
snakedoc's Avatar
snakedoc
snakedoc is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: AL, Reform
Posts: 4,006
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
i have a 99 and dont have a bug so i dont know what they worked out?
 
  #5  
Old 10-13-2011, 10:21 PM
jc8825's Avatar
jc8825
jc8825 is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Fort Worth
Posts: 1,711
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by A/Ox4
The easiest way to identify a e99 is the side molding, on a e99 it extends to the bed, on a 99.5+ it is only on the doors.
Why don't trucks have molding all the way down the side including to the front of and to the rear of the rear wheel well? I guess the bed is door-ding proof in the newer trucks. I have the OEM molding on mine and it is just the doors, and I wish it extended all the way down the side. It would look better and be more functional.
 
  #6  
Old 10-13-2011, 10:21 PM
F-WhiteThunder's Avatar
F-WhiteThunder
F-WhiteThunder is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 186
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
  #7  
Old 10-13-2011, 10:22 PM
jc8825's Avatar
jc8825
jc8825 is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Fort Worth
Posts: 1,711
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by A/Ox4
When you pop the hood check the coolant color. Green means it is the same type of coolant that came from the factory. It it is green chances are it has not been changed, not a big deal by itself. However, if it is red, that is ELC (Extended Life Coolant). This meant that the owner took the time to change it and went the extra mile and bought "the good stuff."
Could also be yellow, as that is the Motorcraft Premium stuff. It is what I run.
 
  #8  
Old 10-13-2011, 10:23 PM
A/Ox4's Avatar
A/Ox4
A/Ox4 is offline
9 ECHO 1

Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Missouri
Posts: 12,449
Received 35 Likes on 30 Posts
Originally Posted by snakedoc
i have a 99 and dont have a bug so i dont know what they worked out?
Its a general rule, as a said. In the case of the 7.3 later years were rated for more power.
 
  #9  
Old 10-13-2011, 10:24 PM
A/Ox4's Avatar
A/Ox4
A/Ox4 is offline
9 ECHO 1

Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Missouri
Posts: 12,449
Received 35 Likes on 30 Posts
Originally Posted by jc8825
Could also be yellow, as that is the Motorcraft Premium stuff. It is what I run.
Yellow/Green. All looks the same through the coolant bottle

Red will pop though.
 
  #10  
Old 10-13-2011, 10:35 PM
Krazymaan's Avatar
Krazymaan
Krazymaan is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Im not a firm believer that PMR's are weaker than Forged. I have both and they take a beating. The broken rod end is a far superior design over smooth cut. It virtually cannot move or slip under any load. I'd like to see a stretch test and a compression test for proof.
 
  #11  
Old 10-13-2011, 10:39 PM
A/Ox4's Avatar
A/Ox4
A/Ox4 is offline
9 ECHO 1

Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Missouri
Posts: 12,449
Received 35 Likes on 30 Posts
Originally Posted by Krazymaan
Im not a firm believer that PMR's are weaker than Forged. I have both and they take a beating. The broken rod end is a far superior design over smooth cut. It virtually cannot move or slip under any load. I'd like to see a stretch test and a compression test for proof.
X2.

I agree that on paper PMRs are weaker, but in actuality I dont think the average user will ever know the difference.
 
  #12  
Old 10-13-2011, 10:45 PM
snakedoc's Avatar
snakedoc
snakedoc is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: AL, Reform
Posts: 4,006
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
the pmr has a lot less ductility so it will not stretch like the fr. but the pmr has a higher tinsel strength than the fr.
so it is 6 or halve dozen
 
  #13  
Old 10-13-2011, 10:48 PM
A/Ox4's Avatar
A/Ox4
A/Ox4 is offline
9 ECHO 1

Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Missouri
Posts: 12,449
Received 35 Likes on 30 Posts
Originally Posted by F-WhiteThunder
Whoops. Missed a second post by the OP.

That is a 2001, and therefor would have the mechanical diode in the transmission.
Price is good if the mileage is indeed 133k
 
  #14  
Old 10-13-2011, 10:50 PM
snakedoc's Avatar
snakedoc
snakedoc is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: AL, Reform
Posts: 4,006
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
not %100 on the trans, there was a cut off date in 01 when they changed it so build date would help.
 
  #15  
Old 10-13-2011, 11:25 PM
Stewart_H's Avatar
Stewart_H
Stewart_H is offline
Super Moderator
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Central Coast of CA
Posts: 29,376
Received 86 Likes on 79 Posts
Originally Posted by A/Ox4
Yellow/Green. All looks the same through the coolant bottle
You're right, red will pop, but normally, conventional green will be distinctly different and noticeable in the degas bottle compared to Ford's gold H-OAT coolant.

Originally Posted by Krazymaan
Im not a firm believer that PMR's are weaker than Forged. I have both and they take a beating.
Originally Posted by A/Ox4
X2.

I agree that on paper PMRs are weaker, but in actuality I dont think the average user will ever know the difference.
They aren't weaker. PMR's are just less forgiving and have a smaller margin for error compared to forged rods.

Stewart
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: looking to buy a 99-02 f250/350 4x4 7.3l what year was the best?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:18 AM.