that looks good Tugly

 

Hey thanks Seth, I appreciate it.

If you guys are looking into these wheels at all, keep this in mind - Moto Metal actually didnt offer a center cap for a manual locking hub.

I dont know if you guys can tell but I modified the center caps they gave me for the fronts. I like the way it turned out. I dremeled out a circle in the caps so that the hub lockers can come through. I then taped off and painted the little bit of chrome colored writing that was left from the moto metal lettering. They sit pretty dang flush and look like they were made like that if I can say so myself.

Seth, Sweet Mods. Have any pics? I am looking to line the underside and half wrap the outside of my truck before too long. I may be moving to Hawaii for work in July so I dont want that salt eating away at my truck. You say you used rhino liner? roll on?

GUYS,

I am thinking about looking into a suspension lift. These -24 offset wheels are working well and I just barely rub when turned all the way left which is exactly what I had before with the 8" wide ultra wheels and 315 mud & snows. I accomplished what I was attempting to do with the offset and I am happy. But, on the other hand, I do rub when I am turned (not maxed out) and hit a big bump or run over something big enough. I do not want to take my truck to the sky but I do want full turning range and suspension range without rubbing. Any ideas on how big I would need to go?
4" perhaps? I have the leveling kit right now so would a 4" put me only about 2 or 3" higher? Input would be appreciated.

 

Haha no problem fellas.

Of course it does!

Haha and I bet the 2000 mirrors do. Only this crowd of people would think so though Im sure. I sure want new mirrors. My E99 mirrors are ok but the spot mirrors are too small and they are fixed which sucks. My drivers side one is positioned correctly but my passenger side one doesn't let me see the rear tire which I do not like. Not to mention I have a little bit of damage on my drivers side mirror that makes it fold in when I'm going about 75+ mph. Not that I really have an excuse to be pushing 80, but when im going 70 and the wind is blowin against me it'll fold too


TUGLY,

I agree, those do look good. What deck are you running? I am wanting to install a good big screen deck like that with a back up camera. Anybody know of a good and reliable one that can play dvd's and had good sub outputs, usb inputs, and built in equalizers?

 

Bryce.....ill help you find a DVD unit or sell you the one I have. Text me this week.

 

Roger that bud

 

Spool&Go,

I have a Jensen, but it's not for everybody. It's cheap and wonky, but it does what I want it to do and sounds OK for that very low price.

If you're looking for the real thing in the dash and don't mind bumping the price just a little, Pioneer AVH-P4300DVD or similar will do the job. Sony doesn't have the SD card (can't suggest this enough), Clarion is a little too inexpensive, JVC is OK, and Alpine is well... is Alpine.

I don't suggest getting hung up on the DVD... it's not going to work while driving, unless you bypass the safety features. My CD has never - ever seen a disk. The SD takes care of video, audio, pictures, etc.... I have HD radio, but only one channel in my area. The other brands have HD as an option. If you buy a camera, rehearse where you will put it before you buy it, it's not as easy as it seems unless you buy a license-plate-mounted camera. If it says it has bluetooth, make sure you have the attachments to make the bluetooth work.

I like Pioneer because their tuners are notoriously long-legged (good reception).

 

I have family in Hawaii and from what I've seen of their cars, it isn't the salt that causes damage as much as the intense sun. They do get a little surface rust there, but they seem more bleached than rusty. I know a lot of guys in the Midwest and East Coast use POR-15 to protect their trucks from rust, but I bet Rhino Line would work well too. That's what I'd paint on if I were you. I was considering moving down there in the near future as well, gotta love that warm tropical weather.

 

I'm currently in the middle of some much needed maintenance/mods...here's the list:

Install new 2010 tow mirrors
Waterproof isspro performax ESP
Hook up GPR LED
Replace Right Rear Caliper
Check and lube all caliper pins
Flush brake fluid
Install new stainless steel brake lines
Oil/Filter/Grease
EBP Sensor and Tube Cleaning
Always Bright Overhead Console mod
Fog Lights on with High Beams mod

And depending on time constraints and ambition I also have new front fender liners, a 6.0 trans cooler, and a 6.0 intercooler to install

 

I just replaced my radiator since it's had a crack in it for some time now. I had it patched with some jb weld and it held for a few months. Ordered one from ford and it cost me $268. Not bad for oem. But once I pulled the rad out I decided I was close enough that I ought pull the ic as well. To my amassment the ic was spotless on the inside, meaning no oil build up. But between the radiator and the ic cooling coils it's a wonder my truck never overheated! So I pressure washed the ic and reinstalled it and the new radiator. Then flushed the system with 20 gal of de man water and filled with proper amount of elc. Trans seems to be the only thing I can see a difference in temperature in. Now it stays around 150 all the time. Engine oil temp stays closer to 185-195 buy can still get up to 210 when pulling. As for egt's it's hard to tell but I don't think they changed much.

 

Also I did the overhead display repair. It may be a lie o meter but if you play around with it it can help adjust how you drive and let you know where you actually make your best milage. You still need to hand calculate the milage but it let's you see what different driving habits have on the milage, at least for me it does!

 

Did you just use a standard 62 or 68ohm resistor like I suggested in your other thread? Or were you able to find a 620 or 680 square?

 

I replaced the two 680's that are side by side and just re soldered all the rest. I used the round ones from radio shack. They were 680 ohms. Not sure if that was the right ones to use but it is working well and fairly accurate from what I can tell.

 

New Michelin AT/2 tires.

 

Well I'm glad it's working, but Surface mount resistors with a last digit value of 0 simply means no more zeroes to the first 2 integers, I would be thinking a lot of heat load is being generated, here is some helpful information.

All SM resistors conform to a 3-digit or 4-digit code. But there are a number of codes, according to the tolerance of the resistor. It's getting very complicated.
Here is a basic 3-digit SM resistor:


A 330k SM resistor

The first two digits represent the two digits in the answer. The third digit represents the number of zero's you must place after the two digits. The answer will be OHMS. For example: 334 is written 33 0 000. This is written 330,000 ohms. The comma can be replaced by the letter "k". The final answer is: 330k.
222 = 22 00 = 2,200 = 2k2
473 = 47 000 = 47,000 = 47k
105 = 10 00000 = 1,000,000 = 1M = one million ohms
There is one trick you have to remember. Resistances less than 100 ohms are written: 100, 220, 470. These are 10 and NO zero's = 10 ohms = 10R
or 22 and no zero's = 22R or 47 and no zero's = 47R. Sometimes the resistor is marked: 10, 22 and 47 to prevent a mistake.

 

I sand blasted the bottom of the DS doors and found out I need a new front door (both of them) because I could fit my hand threw the rust hole that a previous owner did an awesome job on the bondo work... I can save the rear doors. Van turbo installed, up-pipe gaskets replaced, rear diff. fluid changed. Now Im working on a 94 Grand Cherokee 4.0L AWD..... POS!!! Its the sister in laws, radiator, ball joints, fuel filter, fuel pump, injector O-rings, fixing front and rear diff. leaks, battery terminal connections, oil change, flushing the brake system, muffler with custom side exit.... like my truck