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truck is running rough and shaking, not running on all cylinders? and shifting hard

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Old 10-11-2011, 08:45 PM
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Unhappy truck is running rough and shaking, not running on all cylinders? and shifting hard

I have a 201 F350 7.3L V8 4x4 crew cab with 159,*** miles

Ok so it all started 2 days ago, went out to start the truck it started loped bad and shut down, I got it started after about 4 times by holding my foot on the gas pedal started up, loped bad for about 5 seconds then smoothed right out. Service Engine Soon light came on and is still on, and is the only light thats on. When this happened I figured right away that I had gotten the mixture of "black diesel" (used oil that has been filtered) to regular pump diesel to strong, so since it was down a 1/4 tank I took it right to the pump and filled up and dumped in a can of seafoam.

It ran OK but not great, but I figured it just needed to work itself out, so after driving it more that day I put in another 1/4 tank of diesel. ran alot better than.

Than this morning I got in the truck and started it up and it feels like it has very little power, I drove it into town filled it up with another 1/4 tank or more of diesel, dumped in B12-chemtool ( I also run Diesel Kleene with every tank) then I drove it down the main street and from 38-45mph it shakes like all h*ll's about to break loose! SO i went to autozone, bought a new fuel filter and it made little to no difference (also hooked it up to their scanner and pulled no codes). Also it revs up high (I know diesels rev high but this is higher than normal) and then feels like it slams into the next gear, and the overdrive button is on (its NOT lit up) and I even tried turning it off to see how it did and no difference.

I have had no problems with black diesel before today, engine has been running smoother than ever since I started the black diesel, now I am worried that I have really screwed something up and I have been off work (not by choice) for 4 weeks so don't have alota money to "experiment" with.

ANY help would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thank you in advance
 
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Old 10-11-2011, 08:54 PM
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sounds like one of the plugs in the valve cover has come lose..

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ck-shakes.html
 
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Old 10-11-2011, 08:58 PM
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Sounds to me like you have a uvhc disconnected when your trucks cold start it up and run it for 30 seconds then check which side exhaust manifold is not very hot, that side is the one that is dis connected, you will need to remove that side valve cover and re connect it, search the 50 cent mod as that will prevent future occurrences!
Jim & fat Monty
 
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Old 10-11-2011, 09:04 PM
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Old 10-11-2011, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by hotroddsl
Sounds to me like you have a uvhc disconnected when your trucks cold start it up and run it for 30 seconds then check which side exhaust manifold is not very hot, that side is the one that is dis connected, you will need to remove that side valve cover and re connect it, search the 50 cent mod as that will prevent future occurrences!
Jim & fat Monty
$.50 Mod For UVCH Pics and Rocker Arm Torque Specs:
50 cent mod - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

7.3 Diesel Powerstroke misfire runs rough code P1316 injector wire harness connection - YouTube
 
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Old 10-11-2011, 10:34 PM
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Any tricks to removing my valve covers?
 
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Old 10-11-2011, 11:58 PM
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I have a 97 250 with the 7.3 powerstroke. T have had problems with the glow plug injector wiring harnesss if you unplug them you should be able to see if they are the problem. as far as taking off the valve covers the drivers side is a breeze but the other side is a bit more of a chore it took me about 6 or 7 hours. Hope this helps
 
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Old 10-12-2011, 12:07 AM
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99-2003 takes 20 mins a side, OBS trucks are fighting that blower housing and a/c comp. I don't like doing those at all!
Jim & fat Monty
 
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Old 10-12-2011, 12:25 AM
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As a newbie I hate to step on toes, but as I got ready to take off my valve covers this afternoon for the almost exact scenario posted above, something told me to take the problem to a friend with a scanner to be sure. Turns out the ICP Sensor had failed and after a few minutes and a little too much money, problem solved in the parking lot of my friend’s shop.
Costs more than the $0.25 mod, but absolutely quicker!

Lesson here- look at the exahust for temp before jumping in.
 
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Old 10-12-2011, 12:44 AM
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What he's describing does not sound like an icp sensor failure, easy to test just unplug your icp sensor this forces the IDM to use a default % and truck will smooth out operation on restart!
Jim&fat Monty
 
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Old 10-12-2011, 12:36 PM
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Drivers side is off....well kinda, got that last bolt to take off in the very back, but the plug is still attached.....I hope the passenger side is the one with the problem..

what do I need to tighten while I am in there? And to what ft. lbs? THANKS for all of the help and answers
 
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Old 10-12-2011, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 4x4countryboy
Drivers side is off....well kinda, got that last bolt to take off in the very back, but the plug is still attached.....I hope the passenger side is the one with the problem..

what do I need to tighten while I am in there? And to what ft. lbs? THANKS for all of the help and answers
The link in my earlier post "50 Cent Mod" has the values and pics of which ones to tighten.
 
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Old 10-12-2011, 09:35 PM
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Just fyi to any one who reads this post. 120 inch pounds = 10 ft pounds I just learned that...it was kind of obvious owell.

Passenger side UCVH was barely hanging on!

Cant wait to get everything back together and see how she runs!
 
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Old 10-12-2011, 09:40 PM
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Don't forget to leave a quarter in there!
Jim & fat Monty
 
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Old 10-12-2011, 10:04 PM
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Good to hear.. well maybe not good, but an almost free fix..
 


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