Can I bypass the EGR so the comp thinks it's working right, so I don't have to spend 250 to replace everything... this is a 700 truck... I just want it to stop running like **** cause of the EGR...

 

what is wrong with your EGR? when mine got stopped up i was able to remove it and clean it and make it work again

 

I wouldn't start jury-rigging the truck if I were you, otherwise you'll probably end up selling it for less.

The EGR system does not hurt your mileage and infact helps it out some, so if you get'er running it will probably help with gas mileage woes.

To find out if your EGR valve is working, when she's running watch the valve and pull off the vacuum line, if the valve is fine the plunger inside will move, if you don't think it moved, watch again and put the line back on.

Nothing? Well it could be dirty, easiest way to tell is (by mouth) blow on the EGR valve nipple, there's suppose-to be a diaphragm in there, if air flows freely then you need a new valve.

If the computer is just throwing codes right'n'left, could be the EGR valve position sensor, if that is all fine and working it could be the EGR vacuum solenoid.

To check the vacuum solenoid; Unplug the vacuum from the EGR valve and just temporarily plug the line with your finger, a screw or anything else; If it runs much better and all is happy and whole again, you have a bad EGR vacuum solenoid.


PS: I ran my truck for a day with the vacuum blocked to the EGR, my gas mileage dropped like a bag of door ***** in the local river, YMMV but it's not the way to go.

 

As stated, the EGR helps mileage and blocking or bypassing it does nothing to help you. It helps to keep cylinder head temps down and to prevent detonation. It sounds like a tune-up is in order and the EGR wasn't checked. It fills with carbon, and oily soot that prevents the plunger from working freely. The EGR performs when @ cruising speed and never @ idle. I would pull codes and go from there.

 

To answer your question, yes you can put a block off plate between the egr and manifold and your computer will not know. Are you currently getting egr check engine light? If so you will still continue to get the code because the egr is giving an inadequate signal.....the above block off assumes you currently have an operational egr, but just want to disable it.

 

As stated above you can block EGR flow with a plate between the valve and intake manifolf, but to keep it from generating codes the whole system still has to be functioning normally. To keep costs of parts down I suggest you do your shopping at the local junkyard instead of the parts store.

 

The truck just had plugs, wires, cap, and rotor changed out. The check engine light is on and is throwing 2 EGR codes...
It hasn't been driven for almost a year. I just did a 25 mile run tonight and it is backfiring/popping a little at cruise... I am going to do those test on the EGR systems this week sometime, and see what that does...

 

I am having a similar problem with my 96 5.0L. It has a hesitation between 20-40mph. The EGR solenoid along with the EGR has been replaced, the MAF has also be changed, all with no success. When I remove the green line from the top of the EGR and plug it the hesitation goes away.