The skinny on EBPV pedestal gut and plug, already done it - take note
#31
Sorry to bump an old thread....
The solenoid in my truck is acting up and not releasing the EBPV when under acceleration. My truck is a 2001 with 250k on it, it leaks some oil.... but show me a Ford that doesn't. Since I don't care about oil leaks can I not just disconnect the rod from the valve, wire it open, leave the solenoid plugged in and call it a day?
The solenoid in my truck is acting up and not releasing the EBPV when under acceleration. My truck is a 2001 with 250k on it, it leaks some oil.... but show me a Ford that doesn't. Since I don't care about oil leaks can I not just disconnect the rod from the valve, wire it open, leave the solenoid plugged in and call it a day?
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#41
You cant see from the pic, but we built up the area on either side before closing it. That way I could be sure the passage wasnt blocked. I still cleaned out the passages afterwards and it flowed real well.
#42
Sorry guys, this thread has me confused. My only real question is, if I go with a van turbo and the outlet adapter (which eliminates the ebpv butterfly valve), and also add a non-ebpv pedestal, do I still have to worry about plugging holes and whatnot? Sorry for the dumb question, and thanks for the help.
#43
No. You do not have to plug holes or weld anything up if you do what you say.
I went a little cheaper and cut my EBP Valve out and used a piece of the original rod to weld up the hole in the outlet of the turbo(cast steel side). I purchased a blank pedestal from dieselorings.com for 122$ plus shipping. I guess I only had to pay for the pedestal, a turbo reinstall kit and I purchased a new oring for the aluminum casing around the wheel and a new oring for the outlet of the turbo(aluminum side).
I went a little cheaper and cut my EBP Valve out and used a piece of the original rod to weld up the hole in the outlet of the turbo(cast steel side). I purchased a blank pedestal from dieselorings.com for 122$ plus shipping. I guess I only had to pay for the pedestal, a turbo reinstall kit and I purchased a new oring for the aluminum casing around the wheel and a new oring for the outlet of the turbo(aluminum side).
Last edited by 1fixitman; 10-09-2012 at 10:34 AM. Reason: more
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You still need to plug the actuator hole because it is a still an open route to the oil pan/crank case.
I am not sure on the size tap for the butterfly arm hole, I welded mine shut.
For the jet hole to the chamber any small tap you have would work, just make sure you have the matching drill bit and screw/plug/bolt. Another thought is possibly use a small punch in a few spots around the jet hole might close it up as well.
I am not sure on the size tap for the butterfly arm hole, I welded mine shut.
For the jet hole to the chamber any small tap you have would work, just make sure you have the matching drill bit and screw/plug/bolt. Another thought is possibly use a small punch in a few spots around the jet hole might close it up as well.