Getting rid of vacuum advance.

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#16

10-08-2011, 06:40 AM

1912barry

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Quote:

Originally Posted by orich

I'm not going into timing as that's been covered. The very first thing comes to mind is your grade of fuel your using. Plus your compression ratio. This were most guys get in trouble pumping the comp up to high when they can only get 91 octane gas some states have 93. And the weight of you vehicle is all a factor to when it pings. And not everyone can run the same timing cause on climate dry or damp plus sea level. Tune it the best you can and if not happy take it to a speed shop who can do it before you damage the motor. Maybe you also need to re-jet if you have not and running cam and header with large pipes leans it out. So have you checked your plug color for correct burn?? my 2 cents
orich

The engine was built stock,just an RV cam. Have done all you have said. I am running the stock 2v carb and I had to re-jet from #52 to #59 do to a lean condition,I am allso still using the stock exaust manifolds as well and plan on keeping it that way. Back some many years ago I had a 69 f-100 that I put a 429 in and I ended up using a mechanical only advance dizzy in and it ran great everyday so Im not sure why this is not such a good idea now with this FE engine. It just seems like it would make thing much more simple.

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#17

10-08-2011, 07:38 AM

gfw1985

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There are diff opinions on vacuum advance. Generally I do use ported vacuum. Some swear by full vacuum. I do have one vehicle running full and while it works well, it's the only one I've had success with that way. I did have one that no matter what I did, it would not run right with any vacuum advance at all. Important thing is get rid of that spark knock. Disconnect and plug port at carb as you do when setting base timing and see what she does. Actually I set mine for 32-34* all in at 3000rpm and let the initial fall wherever it does.

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