I have seen studs broken and not leaking enough the cause a noise and some do, I would put the truck on stands, remove the wheel and well and run the engine and listen, even with a hose to my ear and put it all around, on the flange, all the ports and verify that it is the top of port 4 that causing it, looking for soot marks from a leak

 

There's a black marking there. So I know it's coming from there already. God dammit I just bought this truck an I hate it. Knew I was going to regret this.

 

A good drop light, a bucket to sit on and the right tools and patient carefull mindset and you can get it done

good luck

 

your going to have to remove the manifold to get the broken bolt out. You might center punch and drill it out afterward, but welding a washer or nut to it would be better.

 

I don't have a welder or know anyone with one. So I'm
Screwed.

 

When buying a used vehicle, you can always expect to have a list of things that need fixing no matter what the seller tells you. I would pull the whole manifold as described above, remove all the studs and replace them with stainless steel bolts and locks.

You can find a set of these at most hardware stores:

Amazon.com: Vermont American 13484 5 Piece Left-Handed Extractor Drill Bit Set: Home Improvement

 

Ive had relaced my fathers on a 6.8 v 10 , it was left alone too long and burnt a corner out of exhaust port of the head ,but we still used the same head ,and till this day it leaks , be very wise to get it taken care ASAP!!!

 

Well, KB, you did a great job there! hemikidd, you can do it too! Take his advice and be patient. It is frustrating, but hang in there. I think I will go take a look at my '02 5.4 right now...

 

If the magnet sticks it does not mean they are ferrous, nickel is also highly magnetic and a higher nickel content makes a stronger fastener.

Try to get a stainless that has a high carbon content, they are stronger. Some stainless might be corrosion resistant, but will weaken when heated and will tend to shear and snap from repeated heat cycles. Also try to make the nuts you use a different type of stainless than the studs. Otherwise they will contact weld to each other, making future removal impossible. A good rule would be to use a 300 series stud and a 400 series nut, or visa versa.

 

I had problems welding onto the stud with MIG or stick. I tried just about every rod I could find and all I could do was melt the stud; nothing would stick to it. I didn't have TIG available and think that it may have worked; who knows.

The carbide tipped bits and masonry bits I had couldn't touch the studs either.

The cam type stud removers (I got mine a Advance, the one I got from Sears sucked out loud) are great as long as you have enough space to have it rotate around the stud.

The right side is easy because there is relatively lots of space. The left side not so much. The ABS, steering column and oil dipstick (which can come out but mine was stuck tight) is in the way. I couldn't get three of the studs out so I took the head off and had the studs machined out.

All looks good though; quite a bit of fiddling for a few dollar studs though.

Good Luck

 

I did one of our trucks a couple of years ago. Since the studs don't bottom out in the head, there's no torque factor to deal with, except just breaking them loose. I found that a simple miniature pipe wrench from the hardware store worked as well as anything. Just get a good bite with the wrench, then give it a rap or two with a hammer, or if space is a problem, the end of a pc. of pipe with a cap on it. I did heat a couple with a swirl tip propane torch. The rest were just soaked with PB Blaster. The wrench is about 9-10" long.

I did have one corroded off nearly to the head flange. Cobalt high speed bits, starting with about 3/32", then larger with 2-3 others, up to about 3/16"., then an easy out ( start the easy out with your fingers first, tap a few times with a small hammer, then put the tap wrench handle on.

Dave

 

Wow, I just looked, or I should say, tried to look at mine! Those things are hard to see!! How in the world are y'all even getting access to the studs? Looks like to me the battery, and a bunch of other stuff has to be removed.

Oh for the days of in-line 6 cylinders...

 

Nah, just take the inner fenders out and go in at the wheel well. The right side is easy to get to the left has some stuff in the way of a couple of the studs. If it were me and my studs were looking fine; I'd change em just because. It'd be much easier to change em out if there were still some of them left. Just sayin

 

I didn't mean to use the wrench first. That's for remaining studs after the manifold is off. Through the wheel well is the only practical way to do the job anyway. Cut grind or split the nuts off, or once in a while you can drive a hex socket on and actually use a ratchet. Once the manifold is out of the way, that's when I use the pipe wrench on a studs still hanging out of the head. Drill the flush studs starting with a small cobalt, and gradually increase the size up to around 3/16", then an easy out.

Dave

 

I wished I would have thought of cobalt bits. Certainly carbide tipped don't work. Oh well, live and learn - or live and learn then forget.