anyone know what this is? found it in the door pocket

motorcraft part #7e43b-10b924-ab

 

Looks like a nice truck you found there. Try googling the number for that relay if no one can identify what it is for.

 

sprayed the rims flat black! looks allot better, missed some spots when i sprayed it off with the hose and brush.

looked at rear diff tag, looks like its 3:55 limited slip geared. i think everyone of these ive had was geared like that. the tag read 3L55

 

I Did the google and nothing came up, dang it! ya you got a nice COE wish i had that.

i guess i cant shake a stick at paying 250$ for this ford.

figured parts were worth that alone.

 

here it is runs ruff, i think its due to the leaking injector line on the back drivers of the engine, also maybe the water seperator still hooked up from the factory. ordering a injector line and oring kit.


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kudos on the new truck! she sounds good

 

it does sound good, i wonder if the shake could be a broken motor mount. seems allot more shaky then my other 3 idi fords

 

thats alot more shake than my 6.9... truct me brother. open up that exuast. and up the pump 2 flats. it sounds like a beaut! way more responcive. any questions just ask

 

Nice find you have here. Just curious it does sound like its not firing on one cylinder...i am interested to see how it runs after you put that ring/line kit on it...

 

it has brand new straight pipe on it, no muffler. ya i will have to see what cly isnt working good by losening the injector lines and seeing what one has the least change to that.

i also pulled the dipstick while it was running, and no smoke comming out of the dip tube at all. i dont think it has much blowby if any!

 

It looks like a bad injector or maybe two. My truck shook a lot before I found and replaced the bad injector. I had installed new Delphi injectors but the one was bad.

To find a bad injector, start the engine, disconnect all the wires to the glow plugs and measure the millivolts from the GP connector to engine block ground. Let the engine warm up before getting the readings. Any reading 10% or more off is likely a faulty injector. If it is like mine, you will find one cylinder to be way off. This method relies on good and working GPs. If you plan to replace them, do so before doing this test.

Of course it could be air intrusion, too.

 

man i dont think i will be able to hold a test meter lead on the glowplug its shakin pretty good!

 

Crimp a bullet/spade connector onto a piece of good wire and then attach that to the multimeter. It is handy if your multimeter has alligator clips.

Keep in mind that I couldn't tell a difference in cracking injector lines when I had the bad injector. All the injectors made the engine run worse when cracked. Fix that return leak first and then see where you are. I still vote injector/s or IP for that much shaking.

If it lunges while in drive or reverse, then you have an uneven power stroke and that is more than likely an injection issue.

 

could be a bad cylinder too maybe ones low compression, but i dont think so because there not any blowby comming out of the crankcase.. i will try some more tricks this weekend.

 

Does the miss go away when you bring the idle up at all?