4WD Shifter Repair
#1
4WD Shifter Repair
I know these breaking this is a pretty common issue on the 92-97 f-series and bronco. So I will show how i go about FIXING them and Fixing so they will NEVER fail again.
We will start with the broken pieces out of the truck.
One this one, the shifter broke at the pivot pint. But they also brake where the shifter linkage attaches at the steel pin.
First the shifter must come apart
The pivot bolt and 2 nylon bushings must be removed.
Next up is removing the detent pin. You remove the zip tie holding the rubber boot, the boot, and 2 o-rings.
Then lube the **** out of it with your favorite penetrating oil. Lube where the shaft goes up-n-down too.
It will take a couple hard blows to knock the detent pin loose. be careful not to brake the aluminum housing. Drive out the pin from the short side.
Once you get the detent pin out, remove the upper shaft from the body.
After the shaft is removed, MAKE SURE your remove the 2 bushings from the body.
Next up I clean all the penetrating fluid off w brake clean, then sandblast the aluminum body(this helps the welder out)
I drill and tap 2 holes for grease fittings. I try to face them both forward for accessibility. I use 1/4-28 NF fittings. It calls for a .2139/No.3 drill bit. I don't have one so I use a 13/64" which=.2031 The aluminum body is not thick enough to have the fitting threaded in all the way(it will contact the shaft and bolt), so I use washers as spacers.
The finish product before it goes to the welder to get TIG welded
When back from the welder, I clean all the steel parts and put a light coat of grease on everything. Then assemble, install, and put 2-3 pumps of grease in each fitting. move back and forth several times from 2HI -4LO and your are all set. Put 1 pump of grease in every 6 months are move thru the positions and you will never have any more issues
We will start with the broken pieces out of the truck.
One this one, the shifter broke at the pivot pint. But they also brake where the shifter linkage attaches at the steel pin.
First the shifter must come apart
The pivot bolt and 2 nylon bushings must be removed.
Next up is removing the detent pin. You remove the zip tie holding the rubber boot, the boot, and 2 o-rings.
Then lube the **** out of it with your favorite penetrating oil. Lube where the shaft goes up-n-down too.
It will take a couple hard blows to knock the detent pin loose. be careful not to brake the aluminum housing. Drive out the pin from the short side.
Once you get the detent pin out, remove the upper shaft from the body.
After the shaft is removed, MAKE SURE your remove the 2 bushings from the body.
Next up I clean all the penetrating fluid off w brake clean, then sandblast the aluminum body(this helps the welder out)
I drill and tap 2 holes for grease fittings. I try to face them both forward for accessibility. I use 1/4-28 NF fittings. It calls for a .2139/No.3 drill bit. I don't have one so I use a 13/64" which=.2031 The aluminum body is not thick enough to have the fitting threaded in all the way(it will contact the shaft and bolt), so I use washers as spacers.
The finish product before it goes to the welder to get TIG welded
When back from the welder, I clean all the steel parts and put a light coat of grease on everything. Then assemble, install, and put 2-3 pumps of grease in each fitting. move back and forth several times from 2HI -4LO and your are all set. Put 1 pump of grease in every 6 months are move thru the positions and you will never have any more issues
#2
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charles Town, W bygod Va
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Looks like it should work, nice writeup. If we were to clean her up and install the grease zerks BEFORE it siezes and we turn into the incredible hulk and break it, you could skip the tig welding part. Not saying I'm that motivated or anything... I cant get mine in 4lo and I havent fully investigated why... Afraid its in the transfer case.
#3
Looks like it should work, nice writeup. If we were to clean her up and install the grease zerks BEFORE it siezes and we turn into the incredible hulk and break it, you could skip the tig welding part. Not saying I'm that motivated or anything... I cant get mine in 4lo and I havent fully investigated why... Afraid its in the transfer case.
#7
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#14
FWIW, I did this mod on all 4 of my trucks (1-'95 & 3 '96's) and believe me, they all shift like butter now. The only thing different is I use Lucas' Red & Tacky for lube on the body where the spring is contained and use Lithium on where it bolts into the trans case. IMO, this helps it move back & forth into 4WD MUCH easier! Ford really should've done this from the factory.....
Roger
Roger
#15
Now you tell me !
While working on this , my helper broke pivot . (Ford Cert. tech).
Soooo I go to U pull it , broken, different or frozen to trans (Hand tools ,limited space.)
I was thinking the older one might work, Shoulda looked HERE first!
Thanks,Ed
ps Bonus ,Yard cashier Real Cute !
Soooo I go to U pull it , broken, different or frozen to trans (Hand tools ,limited space.)
I was thinking the older one might work, Shoulda looked HERE first!
Thanks,Ed
ps Bonus ,Yard cashier Real Cute !