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70's roll bar upgrade

  #16  
Old 09-26-2011, 02:05 PM
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"I've also thought about a flip up light bar but I just know I'll forget to lower it one day and smash the lights."

Hit up a Trailer manufacturer, for the fold down door holders. Normally used on Horse trailers. They're like a rubber bumper, with a ball insert. if you forget, the light housing hits the door, the ball insert pops out and the light falls over. I used to have a set mounted above and below my roll bar on my old Toyota. One kept the light up when I wanted it, and one kept it upside down and up out of the way when I didn't want the light. They are a black plastic / rubber unit, which looked pretty good against my chrome roll bar
 
  #17  
Old 09-26-2011, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by co425
Wish I had room for lights but she won't fit under the garage door with them. I may put on two upside down for back up lights.
Garages are over-rated
 
  #18  
Old 09-26-2011, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by co425
Also does anyone know of a place that will cut custom length ratchet straps. I may end up taking one to the upholstery shop if the length doesn't work out right.
cut it yourself. I do it all the time. Once you have it cut to length take a butane lighter and melt the end so it doesn't fray.
 
  #19  
Old 09-26-2011, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by co425
I've also thought about a flip up light bar but I just know I'll forget to lower it one day and smash the lights. I'll probably fab up one on a bracket I can bolt on only when I need them.
How about using a spring hinge so if you bump them, they just get pushed out of the way? If your afraid you'll back in and bump them, use 2 hinges together so it can spring either way.
 
  #20  
Old 09-26-2011, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by devino246
How about using a spring hinge so if you bump them, they just get pushed out of the way? If your afraid you'll back in and bump them, use 2 hinges together so it can spring either way.
This is getting fun.
Ok since we are throwing ideas out, how 'bout this. I'm thinking of mounting the tire flat across the bed on two stretchers in between the rear braces so that there is more room to mount jerry cans and a tool box and a cooler which would be easily reachable through a brand new slider rear window.
No officer I would never drink that nice cold beer in that hidden cooler that is not in my cab but in the rear of the truck unopened.
And I would never condone such a thing.


I know I'm a bad person.
 
  #21  
Old 09-26-2011, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by turbohunter
This is getting fun.
Ok since we are throwing ideas out, how 'bout this. I'm thinking of mounting the tire flat across the bed on two stretchers in between the rear braces so that there is more room to mount jerry cans and a tool box and a cooler which would be easily reachable through a brand new slider rear window.
No officer I would never drink that nice cold beer in that hidden cooler that is not in my cab but in the rear of the truck unopened.
And I would never condone such a thing.


I know I'm a bad person.
Or just buy a NOS incab tank, put a rubber bladder in it, and run a tube from the tank to your mouth. Surround with ice and insulation and you got lots and lots of cold frothy beer.

"No osifer, this is just the vent tube for my gas tank"
 
  #22  
Old 09-26-2011, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by devino246
Or just buy a NOS incab tank, put a rubber bladder in it, and run a tube from the tank to your mouth. Surround with ice and insulation and you got lots and lots of cold frothy beer.

"No osifer, this is just the vent tube for my gas tank"
Brilliant
 
  #23  
Old 09-26-2011, 07:46 PM
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I have the rotabar on my Jeep and it has two bolts that pinch the brackets and the bar the lights are attached to. I have forgotten about it going in the garage several times and the bar turned down enough to not brake my KC Slimlites. They do have some nice white paint on the light covers though!
 
  #24  
Old 09-26-2011, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Poison Oil Racing
cut it yourself. I do it all the time. Once you have it cut to length take a butane lighter and melt the end so it doesn't fray.
The problem isnt the length of the binder side its the ratchet side. I need the ratchet side longer so the ratchet ends up
In the middle of the tire. I happened to find a couple of places online that custom cut the ratchet side.
 
  #25  
Old 09-26-2011, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by devino246
How about using a spring hinge so if you bump them, they just get pushed out of the way? If your afraid you'll back in and bump them, use 2 hinges together so it can spring either way.
Yeah it would work if I drove straight in. The way my garage is situated I have to back in. Like I said I'll find a way eventually. For now I'm going to get the meat and potatoes taken care of first.
 
  #26  
Old 09-27-2011, 07:38 AM
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With the added weight of the spare on the roll bar make sure you put some reinforcement on the bottom side of the bed mounting plates. I had my spare mounted on a roll bar and over time it started to crack the metal floor of the bed. Granted mine was mounted in the center but I still think the added weight will stress the bed floor.




Also, when you post pictures put a space between the links for the pictures. They won't spread out across the page like they are.
 
  #27  
Old 09-27-2011, 08:57 AM
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I like those wheels ranger429 they look nice on that black beast.
 
  #28  
Old 09-27-2011, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ranger429
With the added weight of the spare on the roll bar make sure you put some reinforcement on the bottom side of the bed mounting plates. I had my spare mounted on a roll bar and over time it started to crack the metal floor of the bed. Granted mine was mounted in the center but I still think the added weight will stress the bed floor.



Good to know.
Thanks
 
  #29  
Old 09-27-2011, 10:00 PM
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I agree I already have some fresh 3/16" steel ready for plates to sandwich the bed. I hated even drilling the holes in the bed but I really needed a mount for the spare and my jack.
 
  #30  
Old 09-27-2011, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by co425
I hated even drilling the holes in the bed
As long as you weather proof it and do it right it'll be fine.
Plus you have the skills to weld up the holes if you ever decide to put it back stock.
 

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