1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Keeping the Patina

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  #16  
Old 09-24-2011, 01:05 AM
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Thanks for the details John. As you suggested, I googled it I found a few good links on the topic:

Here's the manufacturer's website:

Ankor Wax Preservative Fluid

This guy has some good before-and-after pictures:
Double D Auto

Before:



After:



It definitely seems to change the look from matte to semi-gloss.

This HAMBer thinks it is a lot like WD40:

Ankor Wax in the States - THE H.A.M.B.

there is mention of an equivalent product by Gibbs in that thread, but I didn't drag anything up in a quick search.

I guess it (Ankor Wax) isn't available to us here.... looks like you Commonwealth guys like keep the good stuff all to yerselves!
 
  #17  
Old 09-24-2011, 01:58 AM
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I have a question.
Once you apply wd40 or a special wax,can you paint over it and the paint will hold????
I seen wd40 that penetrates 1/8" steel and it looks too greasy to paint over it.
BTW I found the hard way that break fluid can remove the oldest paint (it did on my coe floor.
Can I paint over sheet metal once brake fluid has been on it???It would be a great alternative to strip paint.
 
  #18  
Old 09-24-2011, 02:26 AM
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Originally Posted by iwanaflattie
I have a question.
Once you apply wd40 or a special wax,can you paint over it and the paint will hold????
This is a good question, and I hope some more experienced folks will weigh in on it. From my somewhat outdated experience spraying industrial enamel and lacquer (on non-automotive parts), you need CLEAN metal for the primer and paint to stick. Porosity is a big issue here... greasy cold rolled steel can be easily cleaned off w/ some light solvent, but heavily scaled (or really rusty) greased-up metal might take some extra work to keep the paint from eventually peeling up. Also... while clear lacquer is *generally* easy to lift off (w/ lacquer thinner), it is not very durable and tends to soak into rusty surfaces, so in my mind it is not an ideal coating.

I guess that's why I'm hesitant to use anything but old-fashioned car wax to spiff up the patina on my truck. To the best of my knowledge, car wax is removable without too much trouble. Someday I'll have the time and space to pull my truck completely apart, fix the body parts myself, and put a nice coat of paint on it, but for now I want to just try to make it look good while keeping the rust contained.

I do like the look of the Ankor Wax finish though, so I am curious if there are painting problems after treatment with that product.
 
  #19  
Old 09-24-2011, 03:21 AM
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Ankor wax comes off easy with wax and grease remover or most solvents like thinners/acetone. In my experience it darkens the surface rust somewhat but retains it look/character and when it gets wet it beads just like freshly waxed paint. John
 
  #20  
Old 09-24-2011, 12:27 PM
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I've used paste wax on my Airflow to bring back the luster on the black paint. I applied it last year and have kept the car in the garage. It still looks like I just applied it. It restored the finish and looks perfect for the patina.
 
  #21  
Old 09-24-2011, 12:56 PM
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Try CLR first. It works very well to remove the rust, but retain and brighten the existing paint. I saw on a forum some time ago a car that CLR worked like magic on.
 
  #22  
Old 09-24-2011, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by POS-F500
Try CLR first. It works very well to remove the rust, but retain and brighten the existing paint. I saw on a forum some time ago a car that CLR worked like magic on.
Just the spray on stuff? Then rinse it off?
 
  #23  
Old 09-25-2011, 02:26 AM
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  #24  
Old 09-25-2011, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by spurredon
Just the spray on stuff? Then rinse it off?
Wet some sponges and scotchbrites with it and clean her up!
 
  #25  
Old 09-25-2011, 07:53 PM
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Pretty cool process in that link. What a difference CLR makes!
 
  #26  
Old 09-25-2011, 07:58 PM
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Not sure i like the glossy clear over the patina tho? John
 
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