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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Get Rid of Hard To Reach Rust

 
  #16  
Old 09-08-2011, 11:30 PM
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Kbusby. At the beginning you stated you were going to apply POR-15 and see if it removes rust. It doesn't remove rust. It incapsolates rust. You remove the loose flakes and paint over rust. It needs a edge to stick to. If it is hidden paint, put on two coats. Paint second coat before the first is dries. The second needs something to stick to. If you let the first dry, you will need to sand the first coat before appling the second coat. Under the dash doesn't need a top third coat of anything. If in sunlight it will need a top coat of something other than your first/second coats or the first/ second coats will turn kinda milky color. I have painted frames with POR-15 and the coating flows smooth with a brush. Have fun and don't get it on your skin. M.E.K. will remove it from your skin if used. MEK is a accelrator used with epoxy resins in fiberglassing.
 
  #17  
Old 09-08-2011, 11:51 PM
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Yeah I am going to get it and try it on an old push wheel type mower and see how it works.. From the site i was under the impression the prep spray would eat away the surface rust then you apply the POR 15 then a primer and paint...but as long as it stops the rust and leaves a smooth surface I guess that works too..
 
  #18  
Old 09-09-2011, 10:21 AM
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In my several years ago there was only POR-15. First coat was kindy flat color black the second coat was satin looking. If you top coat after first/second coat is dry. lightly sand so what every top coat you use will have something to stick to. Now they are coming out with something new to sell every year or so. If you put it on smooth clean metal you will need to sand the metal with a very course grit to give it a edge to stick to or it will come off. It's not made for smooth metal. Let the two coats chemically dry before top coating. These are my experiences. Others may differ. I'm using it inside the cab and inside the doors, etc. chuck
 
  #19  
Old 09-09-2011, 10:35 AM
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Yeah there are a ton of products. I am going to try the marine clean, metal prep and por15 process and see how it works
 
  #20  
Old 09-09-2011, 11:18 AM
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Just want to follow this thread!
 
  #21  
Old 09-09-2011, 11:20 AM
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It's a good one that will hopefully yeld some good results
 
  #22  
Old 09-09-2011, 11:47 AM
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I've used the POR-15 on several projects. You do have to clean the area well and get all of the loose flakey rust off the surface. The POR guys sell a set of products that should be used in sequence....first, the marine clean is an alkyline wash (so it's chemically basic) that will remove most of the flakey rust with some elbow grease. Second, the Prep & Ready (used to be called Metal Ready) is a phosphoric acid wash that will neutralize the basic wash. After a thorough water rinse and drying the POR paint goes on. It is as tough as nails, and doesn't seem to crack if you flex the metal. It has a very hard surface hardness, so it is hard to sand if you get a run or drip. I spray it on surfaces that will show, and I tend to brush it on places that are going to be hidden, like the frame. It is a great product, and it is a little expensive....but I think it is well worth it. My latest use of their product was the gas tank sealer. That product worked well too.

Here's a pic of the bottom of my cab early on in my project:


Here's the "after" shot with the black POR-15 applied:


Oh...a couple of words of advice....use nitrile gloves...change the gloves if you get a hole in one...if you get POR on your skin, count on it being there for a few days. Also...it doesn't store well once you open the can, so buying small cans is best. If you have some left and you want to save it, use small mason jars and try to make sure that the jar is as full as possible, but don't get any paint on the rim of the jar, or on the seal. That makes it really hard to open later.
Dan
 
  #23  
Old 09-09-2011, 12:01 PM
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Awesome Dan! I was wondering about the gas tank stuff mine needs cleaned and sealed to. Wondered if it was better to get a new one for 99 or buy the kit for 77.
 
  #24  
Old 09-09-2011, 12:10 PM
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There is a product called Rust-Mort by SEM. It is a liquid that encapsulated rust, it easy to put in a spray bottle. I have used it for the last 20 years and it's done the job for me.
It turns the rust into a hard black form that can be left alone or painted over.
 
  #25  
Old 09-09-2011, 12:10 PM
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If you can find a new tank for $99...go for it. The cheapest tank that I found is on ebay for $250 shipped. 51Panelman provided me with a good tank & I did the sealer process.

Dan
 
  #26  
Old 09-09-2011, 12:37 PM
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Had a part store quote that price to me. Don't know where he is getting it but it is a 20 gal in cab for a 49 f1. I wanted to move it under the bed but seemed more envolved then when it was worth.
 
  #27  
Old 09-09-2011, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by yamagrant View Post
There is a product called Rust-Mort by SEM. It is a liquid that encapsulated rust, it easy to put in a spray bottle. I have used it for the last 20 years and it's done the job for me.
It turns the rust into a hard black form that can be left alone or painted over.
I used that Rust-Mort on my rear frame, then painted over it with Chassis-Saver in satin black (2 coats), then painted over that with Rustoleum gloss black.

Before;


After Rust-Mort;


After Chassis-Saver;


After Rustoleum (I just mowed and grass and dust was everywhere, so I rinsed it off for the picture);
 
  #28  
Old 09-09-2011, 01:05 PM
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Chuck is correct, it's not for smooth metal. gotta rough it up!
I brushed on the CHASSIS SAVER and it's not pretty by any means, but its on the frame for protective reasons in my case. not a trailer queen.
I could say more but i am at work! gotta go!
 
  #29  
Old 09-09-2011, 02:09 PM
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Frame before wire brush.



after wire brush



With Por15 seems to be some great stuff goes on smooth with brush and goes a long way.



I have since painted this frame with rustoleum satin black paint to get more of a factory finish look to it. It is sitting exposed to the sun right now every day. No ill affects noted.

Front frame por15 and paint



This was done about 3 months ago. It is holding up nicely. Im please with Por15 so far.
 
  #30  
Old 09-09-2011, 03:17 PM
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POR15 Chasis Coat Black
POR15 Aluminum Engine Enamel

These products ROCK!

Used the above one on all of the chasis et cetera & the Aluminum colored for the Tranny, Rear Differential (center ball only), master brake cylinder & steering box!! They all look fantastic!!!

Pricey but you know the saying "you get what you pay for"...

Enough said.

Paul
 

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