Besides float level, there is a second adjustment; float drop. If the float drops too far, the needle can get stuck open. It rarely needs adjustment, but check it anyway.

I'm puzzled by your description of a "Driver's side float" and a "passenger side float". I've never seen anything but front and rear floats (primary and secondary). Do you have the carb mounted sideways?

 

I have a Edelbrock Performer carb, it mounts forward facing which would put the floats to the drivers and passenger side of the carb. Now it would seem that my truck does not want to fire up at all now. The carb is getting fuel. I ordered a new Edelbrock mechanical fuel pump that will match up to the carb. I tried a new coil to see is that was the problem, but it still won't start. l can't figure out what would make the fuel pressure increase since I'm not using a regulator, and the pump max output should only be 6.5psi. Anybody care to share their thoughts?

 

Are you getting spark? Is this an electronic ignition or points? If electronic, what year? If you're getting spark have you tried priming the carb to see if it will fire at all?

 

It has a ignition module, as close as I can figure, the wiring harness came from a 1974 ford something. The mastermind behind the build of this particular vehicle didn't pass along his building secrets. How do I confirm a spark is there?

 

Optium pressure for that is 5.5 PSI. Over pressure of 6.5 and abouve is part of the problem. Check floats for leaks and set float levels per manual. chuck

 

Floats checked out fine, just waiting for the new fuel pump to arrive Friday.

 

I like to grab a #2 phillips and shove it into a boot that I pulled from a spark plug. I then hold the plastic handle part (unless you like getting shocked) and move the metal shaft within about 1/8" of an inch to a bare metal part of the engine(a good ground). I then have my wife crank the engine. If there's spark, it will jump that gap. If there's no spark, quit looking at the carburetor and go buy a new module(even if it's not the problem, you'll want to keep it on and carry the old one as a "back-up"). If it's not the module, it might also the be "pick-up" in the distributor(this one requires you to pull the distributor and disassemble it from the bottom) to replace.

 

What is a good combination ignition module/coil/distributor would you recommend for my particular application. I want to upgrade those components and use the o;d ones for backups.

 

I have a 1968? 302 and I replaced the whole mess with a HEI distributer by Proform from Summit catalog. its great just takes 12 volts and thats it(unless you hook up the tach,I did) it gets rid of your existing electronic egnician box, voltage regulater, and coil I have the same eddelbrock carb, and replaced the alternater with a 100 amp. one wire unit just because it was chrome and simplified things with the one wire hook up. The HEI goes for about $167 at Summit. Hope this helps you, its just what i did. JIMMY

 

I just checked the Summit catalog and they sell ther own brand one wire 100 amp alternater for$89 natural or $139 for chrome.

 

I think underbridge ^^^ answered your question, but do check out your current set-up prior to removing it so that you'll know if it's any good.

 

I tries your test method with the screw driver and I got no spark. I want to go to a HEI set up. I see a lot of distributors on ebay that are cheaper than the ones on Summits website. I want to go ahead and chane over now rather than wasting money on old system.

 

Don't mean to be anymore insensitive then I need to be - There are a bunch of folks that are trying to help you - Seems as if every other post your taking off in a new direction with out completeing the trouble shooting for the last clue - Cheap parts arn't going to sole the problem in the long term.
And Yes, I am one

 

You can also go with a UniLite. I love mine. They can be found as cheap as $40 used, and $25 or so for a new module. I have many miles on mine with no issues. I had issues, but they were my own bonehead mistakes...not the fault of the distributor.

The main thing you need to do is figure out what has failed, replace that part, and solve any other issues you may have. Replacing parts helter skelter only drains your pocket...it may not fix the problem.

 

I have been eliminating every possible source of the problem and have come to the conclusion that its not the carburetor. MY problem is some were between the ignition module/voltage regulator/coil/distributor setup. Is it worth replacing all of those components til I find out which one is faulty or should I invest in a new HEI distributor and save myself the hassle?