Steering Coupler
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New User
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Steering Coupler
I just purchased a 69 Ford F100 with manual steering. The steering coupler is zip tied together so I thought I would throw caution to the wind and buy another one. So where do I get one? The only place I could seem to find one is AutoZone called a "LARS Steering Coupler". It looked ok but half the reviews said it was junk and the other half said it was wonderful.... Any ideas where I can find one of these>
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: The Big, Oregon
If you're talking about the rubber/fiber flex disk between the column and box, then you can get those at Napa. There are two different sizes, I believe these trucks use the larger size but I really can't recall that offhand. They should be on one of the rotating parts displays. O'Reilleys and Auto Zone should both have similar products on the shelf in the "Help!" section. I would suggest getting both sizes, and return the one you don't need. Also be sure to run a wire between a bolt on the column side and a bolt on the box side to provide grounding for the horn.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
I just purchased a 69 Ford F100 with manual steering. The steering coupler is zip tied together so I thought I would throw caution to the wind and buy another one. So where do I get one? The only place I could seem to find one is AutoZone called a "LARS Steering Coupler". It looked ok but half the reviews said it was junk and the other half said it was wonderful.... Any ideas where I can find one of these>
C9UZ-3A525-A (replaced C9TZ-3A525-B & D3TZ-3A525-A) .. Steering Coupler (rag joint) / Obsolete
Applications: 1969/74 F100/250 2WD & F350 / 1975 F100/250 2WD & F350 all with Manual Steering / 1969 Econoline from serial number D68,001 / 1970/74 Econoline.
Edit: 1972 Bronco with P/S from serial number P40,001 / 1973/75 Bronco with P/S.
HIGH BUCK!! BOB ALLEN FORD in Overland Park KS has ONE = 800-676-0675. This dealer is a snake, wants mega-bucks for obsolete parts.
I'd hate to think what he wants for this little charmer....200 bucks wouldn't surprise me one darn bit, more than double the original MSRP.
No other FoMoCo Dealer, no obsolete parts vendor has any. Unless you want to pay Allen's price, you'll have to repair the original with the rubber only section sold by autoparts stores.
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Baltimore
wildhorses4x4-->Steering Shafts - WILD HORSES Early Ford Bronco Parts
New User
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Dunlap Ca.
sterring coupler
try Googling the part number, the retired parts guy has on your post. I did that looking for a fuel valve for a dual tank set up and lo and behold a parts house in Texas had 1, So give it a try
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Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
C9TZ-3A525-B .. Steering Coupler: 1972 Bronco w/P/S from serial number P40,001; 1973 Bronco w/P/S before serial number S20,001.
D3TZ-3A535-A .. Steering Coupler: 1973 Bronco w/P/S from serial number S20,001, 1974/75 Bronco w/P/S.
C9UZ-3A525-A replaced both C9TZ-3A525-B & D3TZ-3A525-A
Is this the same coupler Wildhorses has (there are two others for 1976/79 Bronco's)?
I googled the number, Dorman has one listed, but their replacing Ford part number applications are in-correct, so who knows if it will work.
I edited the Bronco applications into post #5.
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Ok I got the old one off finally and am trying to put the new one on. Anyone have any neat tricks to get this thing pushed on over the steering gear box splines? I have it bolted to the steering wheel, my thought was to put a piece of wood on the steering wheel and beat the dog **** out of it. Think I'll tear anything up :-)
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: The Big, Oregon
You will most likely knock the lower bushing out of position, the steering wheel will be loose and your horn won't work. Drive a chisel or flat blade screwdriver into the gap on the coupler flange to spread it out a bit, and make sure you have it aligned properly- I'm pretty sure it will only go on one way.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2010
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From: Alton, MO
The shaft has a flat side that you need to be aligned on if memory serves me right. What I can't understand is you didn't have any more tie wraps? After all it is only your steering. Amazing what people do isn't it?
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I just opened the top on the master cylinder to find a 'custom made' 2 piece rubber gasket complete with silicon gasket seal just to be safe??? WTF...
I got the steering coupler on, I just attached it to the steering wheel, removed the bolt holding the clamp, aligned it and beat on the end of the top of the coupler. Went on without too much problems.
This thing has manual brakes and I'm never quite sure it's going to stop. Have to push the peddle all the way to the floor. Don't see any leaks anywhere but I'm going to check the wheel cylinders just in case. Do you think the rubber brake lines could be wearing out and giving way?
I got the steering coupler on, I just attached it to the steering wheel, removed the bolt holding the clamp, aligned it and beat on the end of the top of the coupler. Went on without too much problems.
This thing has manual brakes and I'm never quite sure it's going to stop. Have to push the peddle all the way to the floor. Don't see any leaks anywhere but I'm going to check the wheel cylinders just in case. Do you think the rubber brake lines could be wearing out and giving way?
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: The Big, Oregon
It's drums all the way around, if they are out of adjustment then you can wind up with quite a bit of free travel. They should be adjusted so you feel just a little drag when you spin the wheels.
Posting Guru
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From: Alton, MO
Ok you are almost there. Should be some duct tape lurking around somewhere. Maybe holding one of the rear shackles together. You need something stronger than tie wraps for spring work. I am in the same boat as Jared on the brakes. First thing I would do is adjust all of them up til they just drag.
Old trucks have frozen adjusters many times. If you find one that won't adjust you will need to replace it. I don't know if your truck has self adjusters or not. You will be able to tell when you pull the drums if you do an inspection. If not you can add them to each wheel for next to nothing.
Old trucks have frozen adjusters many times. If you find one that won't adjust you will need to replace it. I don't know if your truck has self adjusters or not. You will be able to tell when you pull the drums if you do an inspection. If not you can add them to each wheel for next to nothing.