Ok so my clutch went out today, pulled the beast of a transmission and discovered my clutch disc had basicly fell apart. it looks as tho my pressure plate and flywheel are fine. no gouges or anything other than a few repetetive marks which I can buff out with a scotch brite pad. my question is, should I replace the pressure plate and the disc or should I be fine with just replacing the disc. and is it worth it to get the very expensive heavy duty disc if I do not replace the pressure plate (would the disc over power the plate pressure?) I dont tow or race and its not a 4x4. its a simple 66' 2wd with a T18 and 4:56 rear gear non posi. any info is greatly appreciate it.
Shane

 

Voodoo, I am not sure if local auto parts store can test to determine if the springs have lost any tention, and/or if the face can be resurfaced. After pulling that 'beast' over the past 40 yrs., more often than I want to remember, I now will usually replace every item related to the transmission including the throughout bearing. I purchase the standard stock pressure plate that Napa sells over the counter. There have been times I have spent a couple hours trying to align the trans only to walk away to return the next day and have it installed with a few minutes. Good luck, I don't envy you

 

Hey thanks, thats what I needed to hear. another question which I probably already know the answer buuuut. would you choose the napa store over the same price assembly from oreillys? if the images on there websites are correct images then the oreillys has a 3 prong pressure plate which is what I pulled and the napa has the 9, 2 prong push arms.

 

I have purchased the parts from just about every auto parts store over the yrs. it just so happens Napa is the closest store in my area. Suggest going with the replacement that looks most durable and of good quality. If you have not purchased the throwout bearing you might want to take a look at Federal Mogul, used in last rebuild and found it to be of good quality and heavy duty, it also has a grease fitting and although probly not necessary I have greased it. If already purchased the throwout bearing I would not worry about it.

 

Why not just buy the entire set???? I would never reuse a PP at all. Stay away from NAPA as all their stuff is made in China boxed Perfeftion clutch parts.Stay with LUK, Fenco, SACHS or Exedy .Also Install the OEM greasable throwout bearing http://www.amazon.com/SKF-N1439-Bear...1966&carId=002 http://www.amazon.com/Brute-Power-90...1966&carId=002

 

ok sounds good, I will just replace it all with a sachs from the local chain here. the reason I asked about replacing the whole thing or not is to save money. thats why I was asking if its a good idea or not. I was not sure. how do you grease the throwout bearing once its all together? my particular tranny once put together is pretty much sealed up. there is no inspection plate. the only way i can figure is to do it through the fork hole? this may sound like a dumb question i know but Ive never really serviced a manual tranny before.

 

The type of transmission (3 or 4 speed) has nothing to do with the size of the clutch. What makes the difference is the engine size and the series.

1965/67 F100/250 240 I-6: There are two possibles: 10" clutch w/12 springs or 11" clutch with 8 springs.

 

Yes you service it from the fork opening! You remove the fork and grease it every 5,000 miles (1 pump) and with the fork removed you also grease the fork pivot! Makes for very nice smooth shifting.

 

VDS,

I'd also recommend replacing the pressure plate, clutch disc and throwout bearing with better parts rather than lowest cost stuff. A set can typically can be bought as a set for less $$ than if bought separately and many sets come with an alignment tool, which is MOST helpful! I'd also suggest you spring for a new set of pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts.

This is also a good time to inspect your flywheel. Get under there with a good trouble light and look for any hairline cracks or flaking on the flywheel surface. If it all looks fine, then scuff it good with some 80-grit sandpaper to remove some of the years of glazing. Then hit each pressure plate bolt hole with some air pressure or run a thread tap down each hole to remove any crud that may be inside, this will ensure you don't get a faulty torque when you torque your new pressure plate onto the flywheel (torqued in three steps, in an angular star pattern).

Any signs of that engine rear main seal leaking? If so, you sure don't want it to leak out motor oil onto your new clutch disc and contaminate the fiber surfaces - so if in doubt, this is the time to change that leaking rear main seal.

Lastly, (no, I'm not trying to make the job bigger or cost u more $$, but) while the driveshaft is out, closely inspect those U-joints. Make sure they have free movement, have lube at all four bearing cups and do NOT make any noise or squeaks. Again, if they are not up to snuff, now is the time to replace them, since you already have them out.....

I removed & replaced (R&R) my first T-18 from a '63 F100 when I was 15 and had to borrow every tool. My next T-18 R&R was in my '65 F100 10 years later. It went better, but those T-18s were still WAY HEAVY! Now, I'm looking to do a T-18 tranny swap, which I hope will go somewhat easier because I now have a transmission jack head to put on my floor jack and a flat concrete pad to work on....don't laugh, I love having a nice, hard section of concrete to work off of after (in the past) having to wrestle a T-18 strapped on top of a floor jack that was trying to roll on pieces of snap/crackling plywood!

Keep us posted on your project progress!

BarnieTrk