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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Brake trouble...

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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 06:40 PM
  #1  
tmanhwm's Avatar
tmanhwm
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From: Costa Mesa
Brake trouble...

Alright guys,

I've got a 1971 F100, 360, 4x2, drums all the way around.

I had a leak in the brake hose, front driver's side. I replaced the hose, and while I was at it, I replaced the master cylinder. I bench bled the cylinder, re-attached everything, and bled the lines all the way around.

The cylinder is leaking at the top around the seal, and the pedal is going to the floor. When I push the pedal, fluid comes out.

What did I do wrong?
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 06:50 PM
  #2  
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HIO Silver
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From: NorCal
Originally Posted by tmanhwm
Alright guys,

I've got a 1971 F100, 360, 4x2, drums all the way around.

I had a leak in the brake hose, front driver's side. I replaced the hose, and while I was at it, I replaced the master cylinder. I bench bled the cylinder, re-attached everything, and bled the lines all the way around.

The cylinder is leaking at the top around the seal, and the pedal is going to the floor. When I push the pedal, fluid comes out.

What did I do wrong?
I think ya may have maxed out the combo valve and the valve's internal piston is defaulted to one side.

In what order did you do the bleed procedure and what procedure did you use?

Personally, I like to let gravity to part of the work and then use a Mityvac vacuum pump. These rigs are fussy when it comes to doing the brake pedal dance because of the combo valve's internal piston.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 07:32 PM
  #3  
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elgemcdlf
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From: Alton, MO
Check your valve for a pin sticking out the front. Been a long time but I remember there being one. If it can be pushed in this will reset it. I also am a fan of gravity bleeding. Fill the master, leave the lid off and start with the furthest away and work your way to the master cyl from furthest to nearest. Don't be stingy with fluid. If you see bubbles coming up from the bottom of the master there is air in the master. Just let it sit till they are gone. Cracking the lines at the master will speed it up. Do this before going to the wheels. Let a couple chambers run through per wheel. Don't let the master run dry.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 10:39 PM
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mblayton
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I always do the gravity bleed too and then work the longest to shortest for bleeding.

Are your drums adjusted so there is just a little drag? if they are backed off the drums to much your pedal will sink.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2011 | 11:22 PM
  #5  
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tmanhwm
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From: Costa Mesa
Update

Thank you all for your suggestions!

I wrestled with the proportioning valve for a bit, but I don't think the piston in there actually moved. The original leak was not huge, just big enough to be worrisome and make the brakes spongy by the end of a long day driving.

Turns out the rubber hose on the passenger side was cracked as well!!

Luckily I had bought two, and the old girl is back on the road!
 
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