I researched the Hastings and it's acceptable also (No SCA's). I also fixed the list so everyone can copy and paste it since these are ALL basically identical filters.

I'm with you on the bottom of the system filter, Rusty. There always seems to be a lot of settling that happens in the bottom of the radiator that the block drain doesn't remove but dropping the hose does, probably because of the big rush of coolant that comes out.

I'm also wondering if anyone has cut a heater core open to see if it's collecting sediment/goo/silica.

 

Thanks for the #'s. I guess I don't have to research them now!

 

Rusty does the hose that came in your Sinister kit have imprinted words describing the hose?

I ended up ordering some Sinister kits (four of them actually), three of them have hose that looks to be very high silicone content, very shiny and pliable.

The other one has hose that is a slightly lighter shade of blue, has imprinted writing, and is slightly less pliable. This hose actually looks like it is better quality. Wondering what you have, can't tell from the pics.

BTW, for those of you planning on a Sinister kit, and run an aftermarket intercooler, you will have to fab up a small length of 1/8"-3/16" strap to support the bottom of it. The factory intercoolers have a little cutout slot on the plastic mount that the bottom of the coolant filter bracket slides into, the aftermarket intercoolers do not have this slot, as the mounts are fabricated from aluminum.

 

I ordered the sinister kit. I bought motorcraft gold from the ford dealership. $17/gal. I did not read if it was silicate free I went with that coolant because ford and allot of posts I read on here said it was good. Hope I dident waste $60

 

No writing on my hoses. Just real pliable and slick feeling. They seem to be made from rubber similar to the Blue CAC boots from the dealership.

 

Like you said, the Ford Gold is in a LOT of trucks out there and many have no problems. I think it's good stuff but some guys wouldn't use it if you paid 'em because it does have silicates. Here is a good description of the three common types of coolant without a lot of big words in it. I'm still on my first cup of coffee this morning .

The green-dyed EG "conventional" coolant we all know and love has an
additive package based around a silicate (and sometimes also phosphate)
based anti-corrosion additive. *It's well-established and does a good job.
It can go 5 years/50K miles without worry.

A few years ago, someone thought a long-life coolant (original plan: life
of vehicle) would be a Good Thing. *This lead to Organic Acid Technology
coolant (OAT), which is marketed as "DexCool" by GM and has been
factory-fill in their products (except C4 Corvette -- not sure about C5
Corvette) since 1995. *It's the orange or orangy-red stuff. *Someone along
the line decided the word "acid" was a Bad Thing to try to sell, so OAT was
recursively changed to Organic Additive Technology. *It can go 5 years/100K
or 150K miles -- provided it's not mixed with other coolant. *OAT has less
cavitation resistance than silicate-based coolant, and can attack certain
sealing materials, so it's not a good idea to convert a green-coolant car
over to OAT unless the manufacturer says it's okay. *OAT also has a
tendency to stain translucent plastics in things like overflow bottles and
pressurized de-gas bottles with a funky brown crud. *Oh, and OAT from one
manufacturer isn't necessarily compatible with OAT from a different
manufacturer. *Texaco is GM's OEM supplier and is licensed to use GM's
"DexCool" trademark on their aftermarket packaging. *I'm not aware of any
other company being licensed to do so.

Many European automakers use a hybrid of OAT -- HOAT (Hybrid Organic
Additive Technology -- clever, huh?), which is the OAT package with a small
amount of silicates added to increase the cavitation resistance and make it
less aggressive against those seals and gaskets. *This is often pale yellow
in color. *DaimlerChrysler is using it in several car lines now, too,
notably the LH sedans and the new minivans (It's possible the
Sebring/Stratus twins now use it -- I don't have that handy at the
present). *This stuff seems to offer pretty much the best of both worlds --
it's not quite as long-lived as straight OAT, but it is much better behaved
in operation than OAT, much like conventional coolant.

Note that these three different additive packages are not really
cross-compatible. *No, they won't eat the insides of your radiator if you
mix a little of one in with another in a pinch, but you'll be better to get
the system flushed out and a fresh mix of 50/50 whatever your car needs put
back into it.

Here's a link to the full article:
Cooling Fluids

 

Hi Blade, I would like to install a filter before I do my oil cooler. I have a 2000miles trip to go before I do it and I can not order through internet.
Can you explain a little more on your coolant filter set up. Do you have the base number and filter part number. I see you used 1 inch lines as I checked your pictures. Where do you get the T connectors? You are also saying that you drilled the hole to 3/8, which connections?

By the way, I am still holding there with my EOT around 210, 215, hope to make it home on higway 55, apparantly this is a pretty flat (dull) higway. If I have a chance or a place to do it, I will do a backflush.

Thanks.

 

Hello all,

I just finish installing the Dieselsite coolant filter. To install the filter at the last step, I had to take the filter housing out of the braket. How do you guy change the filter? doesn't looks like there is any room to take the filter out and install new one with the filter housing attach to the braket. Do you take the housing off the braket every time you change the filter?

Thanks,