Several weeks ago, I posted about looking for a 302 to swap out with my tired '92, 302. Well, I came across a '90, 302, rebuilt by Ford. Judging by rust, and appearance, it looks like it has between 50-80K on it. I got the motor tore down to the pistons, and to a surprise, the piston's show 040. I couldn't be happier with this $200 motor. Now I have the heads at the shops, as #4, 6, 8 valve guide seals were leaking. Now as I wait for the heads, I just had a couple of questions for everyone here who can can give me a little advice.

#1. I was thinking about RR's, as I asked earlier in the year, and Lew shared his input for Scorpion's. I'm going with 1.7's and I'm going to cut some of the baffling area out for clearance. I have read good things about them here. My question is whether or not I need guide plates for these?

#2. I will be replacing the lifters. Anyone have any thoughts or real-world advice about Summit, Comp, Howard, Lunati, Ford Racing?

#3. Pushrods for this motor seems to fall in the 6.875 category. Should I purchase a shim kit now to be sure I'm good to go if I need to shim for proper preload, or wait and see. I have heard that some seem to be ok with stock size 'rods, but some need to shim when assembling.

#4. I plan on cleaning all my heads bolts and also clean the heads for each bolt. I keep all bolts in order. Some say replace, but I'm trying to keep the budget from exploding like our Federal defiecit. I reused the head bolts on my '92, and have never experienced a problem with overheating or leaking coolant.

IF anyone has anything they would like to add, I would really appreciate it.

 

No, you don't need guide plates or hardened pushrods, those stock-replacement lifters are all more than likely made by the same people, so whoever is cheapest, and I have re-used 5.0 head bolts also without issues, pushrod length will depend on what cam you use, and whether the heads are milled or block is decked.

Josh

 

Unless the heads or block are milled there's really no need for new pushrods.
If you replace the lifters you will have to do a complete breakin procedure since the '90 has a flat tappet cam, and while we're talking about that worthless bumpstick, why not replace it too while you have the motor torn down and get some respectable power. If I had to pick between 1.7 rockers and a cam swap the cam is easily better in this case.. that's how bad the stock cam in this vintage motor is.
Head bolts are NOT torque to yeild on these motors so reusing them is no problem.

 

Thanks for the input gentlemen!

Conaski, any idea on what cam I should go with? If I were to swap cam's, would it just be beneficial to just get a roller cam, roller lifters, spider, and dog bones? I'm already gonna have to swap the distributor from my '92, so I can use my remote-mounted TFI.

This is really my 1st rebuild, and so far, I'm really interested in how this motor looked overall inside. The crank still appears to be in really good shape, but the bearing's themselves had some wear showing into parts of the copper. Still have cross-hatching on the cylinders and very little carbon on the ridge of all. I checked the mains themselves and they are showing 0.020 under. I haven't checked the rods yet as most of the work I can get done is @ my fiancee's grandparents house.

Thanks again for everyone's advice!

 

In asking about what cam, I should have noted I would like a hearty exhaust sound and looking for power up to 4000 rpm's. It wont be there all the time, but if I needed it for hauling or towing, I would like to have it there.

 

Well, I did a little searching and found it may just be better to keep with the flat tappet cam, but does anyone have any ideas on a good cam to go with? I looked at serveral different types of retro-kits that include the spider and dog-bones, but I'm just needing a little bit of help as to whether or not it's just better to keep with a Flat-tappet cam.

Another thought since I'm thinking of this...Would it be a good idea to put a new set of rings in since I'm into the motor this far? There is still cross-hatching on the cylinders and I would just a like to know what some think of it.

Thank again for the advice!

 

The comp 31-255-5 is what I always suggest for these early motors and reports from those that have used it say it makes surprising power for a 5.0.. which is a positive review I think.

 

Well, I have the block at the shop. Machinist said everything looks good, except for the wear on the rod's and the main's. Looks like a polish and cleaning.

My next question is: Does going .060 over on the cylinders make good sense? Would it be worth the extra money? He quoted me @ $300 for complete rebore @ .060, new pistons, cam bearing's, polishing.

I'm really in need of a plan now. I have the heads ready and plan on going with 1.6 roller rocker's with the advice of Conaski on replacing the stock camshaft with a Comp 31-255-5.

Looking on some new input as my plan for the block needs to be made in the next few days. Thanks for the help.

 

Just Bumping this...

Gonna stay @ 40 over. If I ever have the need then I can go 60 over, years down the road. Read a lot of different info concerning going 60 over, but nothing to say yes or no.

 

Yeah if the bores check out OK just run a ball hone through them and fit new rings on the pistons and it should be fine. I think a 0.060" over motor could potentially run for quite some time but if you don't need to go there then don't.