Yeah thats right. Ive had a set and they worked well

 

I've had good luck with that brand in my vehicles. So figured should work on the atv too

 

Came up with something today so simple of a tool I cant believe I havnt done it before. Basically I was tired of lifting my front diff from either side one at a time to get front wheels off ground on axle stands. I looked at the diff for a minute and figured how i can lift it from the center to lift both sides. I came up with this..

I took a 6x6 block and used an angle grinder with a grinder wheel and cut a tapered corner out of the block to fit around the web gusset on the pumpkin.



I also took a bit of wood out around the top of slot for the bigger diameter tube on pot..

I then placed it on the pot with slot on the web/gusset along with a 2x6 running length wise and another under the pot.
With the jack lifting directly under the passenger side plug weld on pot I could now lift front diff from center with both tires coming off ground equally!



My only other trick to show is how I always support truck from frame when i do suspension work.
I simply take my 44's and lay them under frame with some 4x4 wood posts that lay across tires and lower diff down onto tires. Just make sure tires have good air pressure. Its very stable and I have no worries working under it





*JUST MAKE SURE JACK HANDLE IS POINTING SLIGHTLY OUTWARDS SO TIRES FIT IN FRONT!!!!*


.

 

Congrat's you did with a block of wood what i did with just a Jack along time ago............ lol

 

Not saying guys dont do this just showing how I did mine and how I use the tires to support it. Believe me if I had a forklift,excavator or even big *** tree branch and chain block like Tinian I'd use those!

 

That pic has me cringing a bit. At least slide the tires further under the truck so that the weight is centered on them. I'd hate to see them kick out and someone get crushed.

 

The rear I can slide the tires under more. Leaf springs were gonna land first if I slid it in more on the front. I've done this many times! Like I say make sure tires are 20 psi plus. Max on 44's is 30 psi.
I give truck a good safety wiggle before going under. It's very stable honestly. I have no fear under it. There's lots of meat holding it steady.

 

eeeh...some stuff.

smoking table for the shop


Ash tray


Cell phone holder




Yoke holding tool


9"spanner tool


just a little frame to hold a 9" 3rd member.


I also built a housing spreader out of some angle and all thread but I guess I didnt take a pic.


None of this stuff is very cool or intricate but it works. Just stuff cobbled together out of scrap parts and pieces around the shop to do the simple task of much more expensive tools.

 

Sweet, you made me a new ashtray!

 

werd. <fiiiiiill>

 

A "tool" for lifting the front of the atv up to stand it on its rear bumper.

 

Osb mounted gantry crane of fail?

 

Not quite. The 2x4s are screwed through the osb into some more 2x4s screwed between the rafters. Than I drilled pilot holes into them, the left hole in the pic goes strait into a rafter, the right one into the 3 2x4s. Lag bolts are 1/2 x 8 inches. Plenty strong. Not a noise from it when I picked the front of the atv up.

 

Eeeeeh, osb mounted gantry crane of fail doesnt have the same ring to it as BMJCoF.



If you ever get lazy, Harbor Fright has the 110v winches from 220lb up to 1300lb and all are less than $150. I bought the 1300lb deal 6 years ago for $140 and its by far the most used tool in my shop with exception of the bottle opener. I built a wood I-beam out of 2x12 to span 6ft between rafters and it works great. Ive pulled/installed countless motors, lift the lawnmower to change the blades, lift junk in and out of the truck....whatever I need. Ive thought about buying one, or possibly two, more to put between other rafters.

 

That's a rather good idea actually. If u have two, would make body swaps a breeze!