That's pretty good info! So if I'm understanding you correctly, by taking an electronic reading of each glowplug with a meter you can tell if an injector is bad if a particular cylinder has a significantly different reading than the other cylinders? That's pretty cool, I would like to know more about that. I like to be able to know how and why something works so I can get my mind wrapped around it better.

 

Here is the article I am still reading.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...he-engine.html

 

Eaton,

I cleaned the port out, it actually wasn't very dirty. Also cleaned the mag probe up. I didn't hook up the lumy probe, I was just seeing if it would give me a good RPM reading. Here's a pic of the mag probe in the port and a video of the RPM reading on the meter. You can see that at idle its not accurate and its all over the place. When I idle it up, it will hold steady if I can hold the throttle lever steady with my hand which is hard to do.


<iframe width="420" height="345" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/KZtyOVYiCY8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

I don't have sound right now so I can't hear the engine. If the 1400 RPM reading seems accurate, go with it. Take the meter and place it face down on the windshield. Carefully route the RPM probe and connect it making sure no wires are in the way of moving parts. Power the meter up. Get in the truck and start it, see if the meter is anywhere close to your tach RPM readings. My tach is 200 RPM slow at idle, so it is not a guaranteed test but it will give you an idea. What does the end of your probe look like?

 

That's a good idea about laying the meter face down on the windshield, I never thought of that! Also I cleaned up the lumy probe and looked thru it at the sun like you said. I can see light thru it but not much. Here's what the end of the mag probe looks like.

 

The probe doesn't look too bad. I just watched your video with sound and the engine sounds like it is at 1400 RPM. If your tach agrees, I would say it is accurate on the meter. For some reason it doesn't want to pick up lower RPMs.

 

just turn your idle up to 1400 rpm for timing.thats how i do it.pretty simple way to keep her staying steady.

eaton,you do know to use 2k rpm for your timing method though right? just checking.

 

250 can you adjust the idle screw up enough to get it to 1400?

 

I haven't tried it, but I'd assume yes if thats what he said.
If not, you can adjust the cold idle solenoid to 1400, and jumper 12V to it while you're testing. I know that works as mine was set at 1400 (stock is closer to 1000 if I remember correctly).

 

you can't have the cold advance solenoid set while adjusting the timing,cus what would you set it to? it retards back when that goes off.that's why she rattles a bit more on cold start see.if you set the timing with that on,then she'd run really poor when warm,cus she'd be really retarded.
plus it won't actually advance beyond normal and help the cold engine warm up and burn the fuel better,which is its whole purpose.
edit,
oh im confusing the cold advance with the fast idle solenoid aint i.well pay no attention to me.

not sure how much higher it would rev,but bringing the screw in revved her up to 1400 with ease for me.i think it would go crazy high.perhaps someone replaced my idle screw with an extra long one or something? cus im curious since your asking.there seems to be no issues i can see with turning the screw.it's how i do mine with no problems at all.

 

Cool I'll give that a whirl! The owners manual for the meter lists a Rotunda tool to lock the throttle lever at whatever rpm you want but I'm sure finding one of those now would be nearly impossible now.

 

Yep and I pray a belt doesn't snap when I have my hand on the throttle.