Y-Block 292 1964 F-100 has never really run right
#46
Quote: if I have the tools to set and remove the damper, I could put it on, tighten the front cover bolts, remove the damper attach the front motor mount and then reinstall the damper. Or am I missing something again? I guess the bolts that hold the front motor mount bracket also hold on front cover. If I could get the bracket on with the damper in place, then maybe I could just install the damper first and leave it in place.
What is the difference between a damper and a harmonic balancer? In '64 they only refer to a damper. The parts catalogs call it a balancer for '65 and up. Is there a difference? :End Quote:
You have it almost right. The mount cannot be installed or removed with damper in place. There is one bolt, think it is the bottom one on driver side, that doesnt clear the harmonic balancer/damper.
What is the difference between a damper and a harmonic balancer? In '64 they only refer to a damper. The parts catalogs call it a balancer for '65 and up. Is there a difference? :End Quote:
You have it almost right. The mount cannot be installed or removed with damper in place. There is one bolt, think it is the bottom one on driver side, that doesnt clear the harmonic balancer/damper.
#47
So, I could put the damper on for alignment, tighten all but one of the bolts, then remove the damper, then put in the last bolt, then reinstall the damper?
With the correct tools for removing and installing the damper, it doesn't sound too bad. An extra half hour, but if it prevents an oil leak, it may be worth it.
it would also be worth it to buy an alignment tool it one is to be had.
With the correct tools for removing and installing the damper, it doesn't sound too bad. An extra half hour, but if it prevents an oil leak, it may be worth it.
it would also be worth it to buy an alignment tool it one is to be had.
#48
So, I could put the damper on for alignment, tighten all but one of the bolts, then remove the damper, then put in the last bolt, then reinstall the damper?
With the correct tools for removing and installing the damper, it doesn't sound too bad. An extra half hour, but if it prevents an oil leak, it may be worth it.
it would also be worth it to buy an alignment tool it one is to be had.
With the correct tools for removing and installing the damper, it doesn't sound too bad. An extra half hour, but if it prevents an oil leak, it may be worth it.
it would also be worth it to buy an alignment tool it one is to be had.
Before doing the cover/damper final instal, it would be a good idea to use the longer bolt and washers, put the damper on and see that everything needed is present. Otherwise the cover and gasket could be hanging while a run to the hardware store is made. This all sounds like a bunch of unnecessary activity, but that usually happens on any engine work that is a first experience.
#49
Actually sounds about par to me. btw, when removing the capscrew from the end of the crankshaft, what is the best way to keep the crankshaft from turning. Last night when I was removing the clutch, cause it just happens to be time for a new clutch as well, I used the capscrew to turn over the engine. When I want to loosen the capscrew, how do I secure the engine? Put it in third with the parking brake on?
I was planning finish the clutch first anyway, but I guess I will have to, won't I?
I was planning finish the clutch first anyway, but I guess I will have to, won't I?
#51
#52
The compression test was done with the engine cold, all plugs out. i did not touch the throttle, so it was closed. I used my remote starter switch to turn the engine over to get the test. 100psi was the first compression stroke, if I let it turn over a couple more times it reached 140.
#53
Camshaft wise......a flat cam will not affect compression a lot if the valves are opening even a little....
The 460 I pulled out of my boat had several flat lobes and STILL made 140-160 PSI but wouldn't make better than 4000RPM or so at WOT!
Sounds like he's on the right track!
#54
#55
Just to clear things up. It does not appear to be the camshaft. I took it to a good local mechanic to make sure I was not missing something. There were a number of ignition problems, which he fixed, new dist. cap, wires, points condenser, coil, but he could not get the timing right.
Conclusion, the timing chain must have jumped a tooth. So, now the project is to replace the timing chain and the two sprockets. Not quite as much work as replacing the camshaft, but involving much of the same disassembly and reassembly.
Conclusion, the timing chain must have jumped a tooth. So, now the project is to replace the timing chain and the two sprockets. Not quite as much work as replacing the camshaft, but involving much of the same disassembly and reassembly.
#56
Just to clear things up. It does not appear to be the camshaft. I took it to a good local mechanic to make sure I was not missing something. There were a number of ignition problems, which he fixed, new dist. cap, wires, points condenser, coil, but he could not get the timing right.
Conclusion, the timing chain must have jumped a tooth. So, now the project is to replace the timing chain and the two sprockets. Not quite as much work as replacing the camshaft, but involving much of the same disassembly and reassembly.
Conclusion, the timing chain must have jumped a tooth. So, now the project is to replace the timing chain and the two sprockets. Not quite as much work as replacing the camshaft, but involving much of the same disassembly and reassembly.
It finally jumped far enough to where it was so "retarded" it would barely run even when I advanced the dist to get it to run.....
#57
So, I ordered the parts today, should have them by Tuesday and I hope to be back on the road before the Equinox.
#58
#59
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