I have a ’99 F250, SWB, 4x4 with 261,000 miles. It’s never really given me any trouble until the last 5-6 weeks. I’m chugging along just as smooth as can be when the engine dies. It tends to happen around 1700-1800 rpm but not always. It sometimes happens at 2000 rpm. It seems to happen more often while I am accelerating but not always. It can be when I’ m cruising along at 70mph or when decelerating.
When it happens, the tach will drop from wherever it is to around 900-1000 rpm. If I don’t move the accelerator, it will drop to 0 within a second or so. If I pump the accelerator quickly, it will jump right back to where it was and the engine seems fine. It might do this just once in a day or not for several days. It may do it 10 times in Ό mile. Each time it happens, every idiot light will flash on as if I have just turned on my ignition key.
It does not seem to matter whether I have Ό tank of fuel or a full tank. It doesn’t seem to do it any more often when the engine is either cold or warm. External temp and humidity seem to have nothing to do with it. I have no mods done to the engine. This truck is about as Vanilla as you get with the exception of a Turbo Lifesaver Timer, which I actually just recently installed (but after the problem had been occurring for at least 3 weeks).
I have replaced the CPS twice while trying to track this problem down. The first time was with a gray sensor from the local dealer. The second time was with a black one (with purple O-ring) from the local International dealer. At first, I thought the problem was significantly better with the black CPS but… after a couple of days, the problem seems just as bad and just as random.
It was suggested that I might be having fuel pressure problems and that I should clean out the pick-up screen in my fuel tank. Although I see how that could cause a hesitation or stall, I can’t see how that would cause all of my idiot lights to fire up.
When I check for codes, I’m not seeing anything real helpful. However, I confess to much ignorance about diesel engines. I wonder if the first two codes are the result of the Turbo Lifesaver Timer as I have not been getting these two… The codes I see today are as follows:
B1352 - Ignition Key-In Circuit Failure<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
B1359 - Ignition RUN/ACC Circuit Failure<o></o>
P0500 – Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction
<o></o>
I’ve also seen the following codes in the past month:
<o></o>
P0284 – Cylinder 8 contribution/balance fault (While running KOER). I had the injector replaced two weeks ago. Did not help with my stalling problem.<o></o>
P1464 – A/C Demand Out of Self-Test Range (While running KOER).<o></o>
B1204 – Fuel Sender Circuit Short to Ground (Not sure about this one. I accidentally reset my codes before I wrote them down once but I seem to think I saw this code.)<o></o>
<o></o>
Any help would be appreciated. I was thinking about replacing the VSS to see if that did anything but I'm not even sure where it is. I would think it's either stuck in the transmission or along the drive shaft somewhere.

Thanks in advance.

 

Moved to the 1999 - 2003 7.3L Powerstroke Diesel forum.

 

the VSS is on the read end about $20. i dont think that is it, dose the motor die or just the tack meter?

 

The problem definitely sounds electrical in nature.

The first thing I'd do is check and clean all of the grounds in the engine bay.

Also make sure none of the wire looms have been cut / rubbing and grounding out. I had a problem with this on the eyelet on the driver's side for pulling the engine.

You could also look at the UVCH connectors and the harness ends for the PCM and IDM.

 

I had a similar problem but my dash lights were not coming on. It was my fuel bowl heater. Try unplugging the plug at the rear lower end of your fuel filter bowl. Takes 2 seconds. Tape the plug end so it doesn't short out. Can't hurt to try,may or not be your problem. It won't cause any problems or cel.

 

I found the VSS and replaced it just because it was easy and cheap. I'll either know that didn't fix the problem this evening or it could be days/weeks before it starts reoccurring. I also changed the differential oil while I was under the truck. Also easy but not cheap. Danged synthetic gear oil is $20/qt. The old oil was as pretty as honey. No metal in there at all. Made me wish I had captured the oil in a really clean container so I could have reused it.

It's not just the tach. It's the engine dying. Pumping the accelerator stops it from dying all the way. That kind of leads me to think it might be somehow related to a throttle position sensor but that also just doesn't make sense. It could just be something in the start-up software that won't let the engine start while the accelerator is depressed and me releasing the accelerator before depressing it again is allowing the engine to accept the command for the engine to resume...

I agree that it sound electrical/electronic in nature. I checked all the gound straps I could find and they all seem secure. Although all of the idiot lights go on and off, the radio never blinks or misses a beat. I've wriggled and shook and beat at the ignition switch while driving to see if there if any kind of loose connection or grounding issue there and gotten no results. Since it is the original switch with a whole lot of cycles on it, I've thought about replacing the switch but I've got at least 5 keys to my truck in circulation among my family and would hate to have to make new copies for everyone.

I'm appreciating the feedback. I've thought about unplugging the PCM and IDM and spraying them with contact cleaner and then plugging them back in just to see if that might be an issue. UVCH is a new one on me. I've got to look that one up...

 

Under Valve Cover Harness ---- The Quarter trick... Great video posted to YouTube on how to do that repair. That might be the next thing I check. I love my truck.

 

Well, I took it out this evening and made a few stops. The problem is still there. When I checked for DTC's, I no longer have the VSS sensor code. I still have the B1352 and B1359 codes. I'm wondering if these are being caused by my Turbo Lifesaver or if I am indeed having a problem in my ignition switch circuit. Anybody out there with a Turbo Lifesaver getting these codes with no problems?

 

If you can , check EOT sensor out put .. It can mimic CPS symptoms

 

I can't believe that I found my problem and did not remember to post the solution. I hate it when others do that. It was my Injection Control Pressure Sensor. That one isn't cheap but replacing it did fix my problem. I would recommend that you always replace the pigtail at the same time. I didn't and it leaked oil back out of the pigtail that I've had to pull it and clean it again twice with brake cleaner. Each time I've done that, the problem has gone away again.

This is one of those "Don't be cheap. Buy the extra part and save yourself some time." moments.

 

Thank-you for reporting back. can you tell us on how you came about finding out what was wrong and what you did to fix it. Guess/deduction/advise?

 

Actually, I had already replaced the CPS with no change in operation. ( Like many people, I keep a spare CPS and a wrench in the passenger side door pockets.) I did a lot of searching of other threads in this forum to determine where other possible causes would be located. I unplugged a few things (like the EOT) to show that they were not part of the problem. I also had replaced the VSS because it did occasionally throw a code on my truck so I decided there was a really small chance that it could be contributing to the problem.

In the end, I decided that replacing the ICPS was the last relatively cheap thing I could try to do. If that did not solve the problem, it was time to look at a more expensive path to a fix. That would probably have involved paying a mechanic with good diagnostic equipment.

This group has saved me a lot of money over the past few years.

 

Arrghhh !

3 months with no problems. I post that everything is cleared up and two days later it comes back with a vengeance. Really!

My version of AE doesn't seem to give me the chance to monitor much in real time. I've got 5.4. I guess I need to contact them about an upgrade because about the only thing it will let me monitor is fuel trim....

The codes I've got are B1203, B1352, B1359 and P0500. I'm wondering if this is some kind of short somewhere in the steering column. The truck will run fine for miles and then cut out and come back as soon as I tap the accelerator. Sometimes it'll cut out every few seconds and other times after several miles. It all started as I was coming back from being 200 miles away from home. Very frustrating.

I might start a new thread hoping to get new ideas. Today, I did the following:

UVCH replacement
New ICP sensor
New ICP pigtail
New CPS

My SES light never comes except during that moment that everything restarts. At that time, everything is lighting up as if I have just turned on the key. I'm so aggravated I'm about ready to sell the truck. This is the only thing that has ever given me any trouble and it's been off and on for 9 months. I've spent about $600 on parts trying to get rid of this one.

 

All of those are GEM codes.....Do you have a windshield leak? With all the rain we had in GA this week, I figure you may have gotten some in La.

The electrical portion of the ignition switch can be changed without losing your key part if that is concern-meaning the key will stay the same.

Did u ever disconnect fuel heater as suggested earlier? Might be something and also check connections on pcm fuse and relay. Also check mega fuse 20 and 21 to see if their connection is good.

 

I'm going to unplug the bowl heater today and give that a try. No leaks anywhere in the windshield or under the dash. At least, no sign of leaks. I'm also going to try pulling the IDM and PCM to inspect the connections and maybe spray some electrical cleaner on the contacts.

While I'm in there, I'll probably pull off the steering column cover again and shake and poke at the ignition switch while I'm driving or depressing the accelerator. The problem usually occurs when it hits 1300 or 1900 rpm.