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Supercab owners with door rattles... possible FIX

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Supercab owners with door rattles... possible FIX

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  #16  
Old 08-26-2011, 11:58 AM
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Yep! At least on the driver side which is where I had the majority of the rattle/banging/clunking. I just though it was the latches needing adjustment and was planning in getting some tubing for the weather seals. Soon as I saw your post I went and looked at my truck and noticed this.

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  #17  
Old 08-26-2011, 12:45 PM
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Yep, that's EXACTLY what mine looked like. Broken spot weld, when relaxed, the hole was off-center.
 
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  #18  
Old 08-26-2011, 12:56 PM
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I live down a washboard dirt road so the noise from this was driving me nuts! I think I will get this done tomorrow before the truck meet so I don't have to listen to it anymore. If you ever make it to one of the meets Art remind me I owe you a 6 pack for this!
 
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  #19  
Old 08-26-2011, 01:09 PM
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I'll remember
 
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  #20  
Old 08-26-2011, 01:41 PM
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been trying to find this problem for years on my 04. just went outside and looked and both of mine are split, not ripped like yours, more like the weld didnt stick to the inner door skin. mine will be fixed this afternoon
 
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  #21  
Old 08-26-2011, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Krewat View Post
I've had my share of door rattles over the years, and even did the mod to make the bottom rear-door striker adjustable. Even put plastic tubing inside the weather stripping to make the door more solid, but over the years, it's gotten worse, to the point where I hit a bump and the front doors move so much the mirrors shook like crazy.

I could grab the middle of the rear door while it's latched shut, push and pull, and the bottom of the door would move about 1/4-1/2".

So, yesterday I decided to take a closer look at the problem, figuring I could put a rubber stop somewhere possibly.

Come to find out, there is a spot weld at the bottom front of the rear door, and on BOTH of mine, they were broken. The inner shell of the door had separated from the outer, at the bottom, and the result was that the bottom latch was moving independently from the center front-door latch.

The spot weld on the inner shell had ripped out of the outer shell, leaving a hole in the outer shell that was off-center from the spot weld on the inner.

The fix:

Using a c-clamp and some paper towels to cushion it, I compressed the door shells so that the spot-weld was back to center. There is a rubber plug on the outer shell, which I used to locate the c-clamp. It didn't take a lot of pressure, so the c-clamp was apt to fall off while drilling, so be careful.

I drilled a 1/16" hole directly in the middle of the spot weld, as a pilot hole. The spot weld is some pretty tough metal, so use a good drill bit.

Next, I went up to a 1/4" drill, and drilled again. Use a file or some other means to deburr the hole. Be careful not to disturb the paint.

I had a small bottle of touch-up paint from A.R.E. when they painted my cap/topper to match my paint code, so I used that to paint the bare metal in the hole.

Installed a 1/4" thread Phillips-head stainless bolt, some stainless washers and a nylock nut, and tested the door fit. NICE!

Cleaned up the bolt head with some degreaser, waited to dry, and applied more touch-up paint to the head of the bolt, and I can hardly even see it unless I'm looking for it.

Results: HEAVEN. Every bump I hit, the doors used to shake. The mirrors shook. Everything in the cab shook, because the doors moving so much made the rest of the cab shake.

Some pics below of the screw/bolt head showing. The dirt is a lot worse looking than it is in real life My cell-phone camera flash really brought up the dirt
I am assuming you had to remove the door panel to install the nut on the screw.

I would think a large 1/4" rivet, like used for body work and window regulators, should also do the trick also and would eliminate the need to remove the door panel
 
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  #22  
Old 08-26-2011, 02:57 PM
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I tried the 1/4 inch rivet idea. So I guess I'll get to see how long that holds up. You can actually get a nut on it without pulling the door panel off as the spot weld is on a lip that hangs down.

BTW thanks for this post cause I've been trying to find this rattle on my truck for three years, LOL!
 
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  #23  
Old 08-26-2011, 02:58 PM
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Now I have something else to go home and do....... I hope mine is like that because the tubing that is in there doesn't seem to be doing the trick very well anymore.

Thanks Krewat!!!
 
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  #24  
Old 08-26-2011, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 96_F250_Deezal View Post
I am assuming you had to remove the door panel to install the nut on the screw.

I would think a large 1/4" rivet, like used for body work and window regulators, should also do the trick also and would eliminate the need to remove the door panel
No need to remove the door panel. There is plenty of clearance behind the panel.
 
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  #25  
Old 08-26-2011, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Monster-4 View Post
No need to remove the door panel. There is plenty of clearance behind the panel.
Yep, I see that now.

the LR door on my 2006 truck rattles like a sum-beach, I was hoping this was the problem. I just checked my truck and both doors spot welds are intact. It appears Ford upgrade from the previous models, my doors have structural adhesive and TWO spot welds on the bottom of the doors.

guess I will rip the LR door apart as I had planned and find out what is rattling inside.

 
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  #26  
Old 08-26-2011, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 96_F250_Deezal View Post
guess I will rip the LR door apart as I had planned and find out what is rattling inside.
Post back here and let us know what it is
 
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  #27  
Old 10-18-2011, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Krewat View Post
Post back here and let us know what it is
pulled all the door panels off last week and upgraded my door speakers.

I ripped the drivers rear quarter door apart and could find nothing broken or loose, yet it still rattles.
 
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  #28  
Old 10-18-2011, 04:50 PM
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Does it rattle against the latches? One of the mods to do with Supercab doors is to take the bottom latch off, widen the holes, and put bolts with a "flange/flair" on the head, and then adjust the latches inward. It gets rid of a bit of slop.
 
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  #29  
Old 10-18-2011, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Krewat View Post
Does it rattle against the latches? One of the mods to do with Supercab doors is to take the bottom latch off, widen the holes, and put bolts with a "flange/flair" on the head, and then adjust the latches inward. It gets rid of a bit of slop.
it could be the latches. that side of the truck has been "bumped" and it has several dents in the rear door, so it is possible things are out of "adjustment"

interesting mod, you got any links and/or pictures?
 
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  #30  
Old 10-18-2011, 06:02 PM
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...o-the-faq.html

Post # 10 - this is back from 2003

Figure out if the latches are the problem first, but a wadded-up rag between the door and the cab and see if it helps. If it does, moving the latch will certainly help. Also, there is a "surgical tubing" mod to the weatherstrip that pushes back against the door, and that can help a lot too... depends on what's really wrong.

Meanwhile, I'll try to find a better thread with pics. I think there was one.
 
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