Finally found the post & picture by Rockledge, on the super cab wiring harness chaffing problem. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...und-today.html

Edit: Here is a is a link to the TSB 00-5-4 that Rockledge posted.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...ml#post1810777

 

Bump: Did you ever find the cause of your intermittent fuel pump power code????

 

This thread is the only one that I could find that was close to my problem.
I have a '94 Splash Std Cab w/4.0L Auto
It started having an issue, after a couple of minutes of driving I had less than 5% throttle, with more throttle it will bog more, then full throttle it starts spitting and popping in the intake. I thought I had a vacuum leak, but when i checked with starter fluid, everywhere, there was no sign of any leaks (if you try this be VERY careful!! Do it with the engine cold!! This stuff is extremely flammable!!). The second day this prob started I was halfway to the tire shop to get some new rubber on the new Center Lines I had in the bed, was NOT gonna leave it roadside with $766 worth of NIB wheels in the back! So I limped it down the road, got my wheels on, then when i started it back up it had full throttle! On the way home it started doing it again, bogging at more than 5% throttle and would only do 20-30mph... threw it in neutral and cut the engine, started it back up and it was alive again. I replaced the MAF, then a 2nd one thinking I had a bad part. Looking for other issues I found the leads on one o2 sensor had gotten on the exhaust pipe, charred one of the wires but not burnt through. On the other side the o2 lead had chaffed on the shifter linkage and the black wire was shorting on the linkage. I replaced both o2 sensors but it still has the same problem, after a couple of minutes running it dies off beyond 5% throttle. With the MAF unplugged it will run, with rough idle and sometimes dies at a stop in drive. Up to half throttle it runs rough but will pick up a little, up to 75% throttle, but from there to full throttle it screams...
I'm sure it's an electronic issue, seems with everything plugged in it will run fine until it switches into closed loop. If I assume correctly, with the MAF unplugged it's forcing it to run in open loop? I checked the TPS with a multimeter and the ohms rose steadily and evenly as I opened the throttle...
Someone suggested low fuel pressure, but I can hear the pump build pressure and shut off as normal, also if it was fuel pressure it would be a constant problem right? Not go away if it's restarted...
Scratching my head to bleeding at this point!

 

 

Welcome to FTE.

Scan the vehicle computer for trouble code clues & post All code Numbers, as they can help focus a trouble shoot.

 

Caribbeandan35,
I still haven't figured it out, the truck's been sitting with a blown head gasket, damn thing was full of stopleak, had to flush it like 10 times.
I talked to the head mechanic at the dealership, when I was dropping off my mom's Expedition, he said it could be too much back pressure and for like $10 a muffler shop can measure it. He said usually if the computer has problems it won't run, but I wonder if it could be part of the computer corrupted. With the MAF sensor unplugged it forces it to run in Open Loop. But with it plugged in and running, as soon as it switches to Closed Loop it falls on its face like it has a bad vacuum leak. I pressurised the intake with an air line and sprayed soap bubbles, found a few minor leaks and got them plugged up, and no change. I have a new CTS that I haven't put in yet, and haven't replaced the CPS, but I replaced both o2 sensors and the MAF, also the TPS.
Let me know what you figure out with it!

 

Suggestion....stop throwing parts at it hoping for the better (aka, spray n prey) and instead, start by performing diagnostics and ONLY buy parts that diagnostics reveal are needed and will cure the problem. After the usual visuals and corrections (if needed) the next step will be to pull codes and using the Ford Factory Service Manual and in particular the Powertrain section, you use the convenient diagnostic flow charts that literally hold your hand and take you through the process of identifying the reason(s) for the code(s) (aka, DTC's). In the end, this will prove to be a MUCH better use of time and money than they spray n prey game; and this is what any competent mechanic doing auto repairs for living and/or a smart DIY mechanic will do.