Redoing my 64 f100 frame, I'm having the frame blasted my question is would it be better to powder coat or use Por 15? I live in Florida
Where the humidity is a 110%. Yeah that's no joke, I need info by someone who's done both, thanks your fellow slickster.

 

Do you have the capability to use spray equipment? If so then I would use a black epoxy primer on the freshly cleaned frame. DPLF90 from PPG is great stuff and matches the type of black Ford used. I personally do not like POR-15, as I think there are better products, but if I am not mistaken POR-15 is supposed to be applied over tightly adhering rust and not clean metal. Or, do the powder coat, although out where I am that would be cost prohibitive from my point of view.

Example I am taking off the vinyl roof on the Dodge to clean the entire surface and deal with surface rust. After using a 3M pad on my rotary to clean I will then use a rust converter and then apply two wet coats of DPLF50 (white). I use lots of rust converter in certain situations as I want my rust inert and not still alive under some so called hard coating. I have seen POR-15 fail in one situation after two years back in 2007.

 

I have not done both. I have used a rust inhibitor on a 63 frame about 20ys ago. I dont remember the name. It was something I purchased from NAPA. Shortly after I applied it the truck was pushed to the back shelf for about 20years. It sat outside for those 20years never cleaned or pampered it just sat. Most of the frame is still covered in the inhibitor and rustoleum gloss black paint. Yes there is some rust showing thru in a few spots. Im in Washington state where we do se extreems in temp freezing cold to highs of 100degrees. I will say it held up pretty well. Im using por on my 65 right now just finished applying it to most of the frame yesterday. It will be painted with rustoleum satin black. Looks very factory. Check my build pics down in the projects section. 65 4x4 for parts. If por last as long as the original stuff I used from napa I will be happy. If you are going to show the truck an trailor it and pamper it probably powder coat is the way to go. If I had the equipment I might be inclined to use the epoxy primer and paint. And with the 65 in a few years Im planning a full frame off as well so the por will probably be removed and some frame work done. I guess how you go is what you plan to do with the truck and how long you plan on keeping it. If you have any questions about the por feel free to ask me or pm. My other build in projects is my 20yr 4x4 rebuild you will see picks of the frame and how it looks now after 20 years. This is just my experience with at least one of the products you ask about agin no experience with powder coat. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

 

As a painter I would recommend go with the powdercoat. Even the Epoxy primer will absorb moisture over time. Wherever it gets wet it will discolor. The epoxy primers are a good sealr but only if they are topcoated. When I finally redo my truck I will powder everything I can underneath.

 

Now that is an interesting statement. Many Mustang and Cougar nuts have used PPG's epoxy primer precisely because it mimics the black used by Ford and used unreduced seals the surface against everything. I have not found or heard anything about moisture being absorbed by the top quality epoxies including SPI or Spies Heckler. The only thing these epoxies might react to is UV which is why they are top coated on the body but not worried about when under the body.

 

Having used all the above in various applications, I can say that for durability you won't beat powder coating. That said, some people don't care for the appearance and it doesn't look OEM for sure, but it could be top coated with DP 90 or similar for a more authentic appearance. That would be an expensive way to go and powder coating doesn't sand easily (it would need sanding before topcoating). Also it is a thicker finish and that can be an issue in tight tolerance areas or machined surfaces, but my vote would be powder coat on the basis of durability. One more thing it has going for it is that when the powder is sprayed the work piece is electrostatically charged causing the powder to actually seek out and cling to the metal, therefore you get much better coverage in the nooks and crannies that frames are so full of.

Matt

 

I recently sprayed my frame with Por15 after blasting the frame and initially the product seems good. From my understanding you do not need to clean the frame down to bare metal to apply the Por15 but my frame was rattle can'd bright orange by a previous owner. The product sprays fine with a cheapy spray gun from harbor freight and has a nice finish that is fairly rough yet even. (You can also apply it with a brush) It does seem to scratch easily, or maybe I am not gentle enough.

 

I used por-15 on the frame of my truck after it was sand blasted, it has worked out well. But powder coating is the way to go. It will last much longer.

 

My buddy sold me on POR15. Me had a rusty old anvil in his shop that they painted with POR15 with what was left over from doing his fathers car frame. He handed me a ball peen and told me to beat on the side of the anvil. It did nothing to the finish of the POR15. Pretty tough stuff. He also said that I was going to powder coat, my frame needs to be spotless, which honestly, aint going to happen. He has powder coated the frame on his 4X4 when he rebuilt it, and he said its the worst decision he ever made. He had the work done by a good shop, but it just doesnt hold up. He said hes going to let it get good and rusty, which is easy here in WI heh, then spray it with POR15 just like he did on his old mans car. Ive talked to few other guys that restore vehicles that are daily drivers, including winter here in WI, and they pretty much concur, powder coat is fine for a show vehicle. The one guy went as far as taking his freshly sandblasted frame, and spraying it down with salt water to get some rust up on it to make the POR15 stick even better. Crazy huh?

 

That is an important decision maker between the two as powder coat requires a clean product whereas POR 15 is not that great over bare metal and does best as it's name implies; Paint Over Rust 15.

 

I've had good results with the Por-15. It sticks to anything(I think I still have some on me from 6 month ago). Never hit it with a hammer but its never scraped off. I've painted some of my rusty spare parts before setting them on this Georga clay and its held up.

I know its suposed to be topcoated if it is in the sunlight. Does anyone know if just a clearcoat will work to keep it from fading?

 

Marc, I dont think that a coat of clear will prevent the UV rays from the sun from fading the POR15. Still need to spray it with some type of primer and or paint.

 

Por 15 has a top coat u can apply to the Por 15 to keep is shiny!