I measured my gas tank. It's a standard 20 gallon tank.

 

The Shop Manual I got that other number from is the 49 - 51 with 52 Supplement. So I don't know why the TDAA tank is in there.

 

Joe, I thought they were 18 gallons... Can't recall the source but that's what someone posted a long time ago (on another forum), and I never thought to question it. Learn something new every day!

 

Great looking pix iwant to post some pix of my 52 f2 but not being to bright with computers I can't figure out how any help? Kodiak14

 

Your pics have to be somewhere on the internet first. I use Photobucket, but you can use another picture storage and it will work.

Here's one way to get pics into your posts.

Go to Photobucket.com and sign up for a free account. Then create an album for your truck. Upload any pics you want to post on FTE to that album. Have this album open on your computer when you want to post pics on FTE.

While you're making a post on FTE, select the pic you want to post from your Photobucket album. When the large version of the pic is open, right mouse click on it and select "View Image Info". The image info will be highlighted and will look something like this:
http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...ghtsafter1.jpg

Copy that highlighted info (right click / copy).

When you have the spot in your post where you want the pic to be placed, select the "Insert Image" icon at the top of the post (looks like a mountain) and paste (right click / paste) the image info you copied in the highlighted box (just shows "http://" when it opens).

Your pic will be placed in the post.

Hope that helps.

 

I agree, those dimensions sound like an external tank.
FWIW, COE's didn't have a bench seat though, just a single bucket seat.
My COE had the regular size tank in it.

 

Joe, I have found that when the gauge on mine gets to a bit past 1/2 tank, it almost immediately drops to empty. On my trip to Shane's house, when my gauge would show almost empty, I would stop and fill the tank, I never put more than 10-12 gallons in at one time.

 

Out of morbid curiosity, has anyone checked these truck starters against Ford's tractor starters of the same vintage? I just replaced the starter on my 850 (p/n D8NN11350CA), and the photos of your starter look eerily similar. Replacement (and repair kits) for the tractors are fairly cheap and readily available.

When I tossed the Y-block that had been (poorly) swapped into my F-5, I didn't keep the starter, so I can't check this myself.

 

I'm glad you are out enjoying driving Betsy again.

With your low axle ratio and 95 horsepower engine you are experiencing the reason auxiliary transmissions were popular with over the road truckers. You could look around for a Watson unit or a Spicer 5831. An overdrive ratio of 0.85 would get you going about 55 m.p.h at about 2500 r.p.m. An overdrive ratio of 0.7 would get you going about 65 m.p.h. at about 2500 r.p.m.

 

Thanks Coupe.

I was discussing a Brownie Box with Joe harleymsn a few months ago, as he got one from Chuck's Trucks back in April of last year to add to Edith.

I have a few more things to take care of before I get real concerned about going faster. Pretty sure I need to replace the king pins and bushings and check the steering box for wear or adjustment. Betsy tends to wander a bit, but that hasn't been a real concern while she was sitting in the shop.

 

I'm wondering if part of my rough ride is because the leaf springs on all four corners look like they're rusted together.

They're so stiff, I can't do anything to make them flex. But that may be perfectly normal for an F4 with the extra springs.

Anyone know if the springs could be made more "flexible" by cleaning them up. I'm more than a little afraid of working on them after reading some of AXracer's posts.

 

I don't know that I'd want to mess with taking apart big springs like yours. If you took them off, a shop could disassemble them.

The stock F-1 leafs have a "U"-shaped channel in them to allow oil to get down in between. With all the rust and years of sand in mine, adding oil seemed like a bad idea, so I waited til after they were off and I'd knocked as much out as possible, then washed them with a rich mix of detergent, which got out a lot more. Unloaded there is a bigger gap between leaves that lets stuff come out, when you bang them on the ground. After they were re-installed, I squirted some old used oil down in there.

Here's the rub... My steering box continually "lubricated" my new left front spring. With no rust or dirt and lots of 90wt, the left front was TOO smooth, it bounced too much. I put on much heavier shocks and it helped. There is a lot of damping provided by friction in the leaves, don't overdue the oiling!

If you do disassemble them (or have it done), here's something to look for. When the spring compresses, the leaves get to the end of the furrow they've worn, and dig in... Round off the tops of your leaves, remove any sharp corners.

 

Yeah Ross, I'm actually not very interested in touching those huge springs. I was thinking maybe just removing the extra overloads on top. Then I realized they're never being used, since I've never had enough weight on the back.

Just thinking out loud about the rough ride... It's really pretty hairy.

 

You could just put something heavy in the back to work the springs a little. Maybe one of your model rockets!!

 

Bolt a 1/2" plate steel floor to the bed. Or two.