I don't have an owners manual to my Club Wagon 350. It has a 460 efi, and I need to check fuel pump fuse and/or relay (if there is a relay)
I don't have a map of the fuse box.
Can someone help me? I am in a big panic!
Mark

 

Ok, just as an update to my problem, I read through some other posts on this problem.
I can not hear the fuel pump run with the key on, so I jumpered the relay and then I can hear it run and run. I disconnected the fuel line from the filter(after the pump) and it shoots fuel like crazy.
So, the fuel is there, but the van still won't start! I can put fuel ino the intake and it will fire and run just long enough to burn off the fuel I dumped in, but it won;t keep running.
I will be replacing the fuel pump relay, since it seems to be faulty. I don't know if I need to replace the EEC relay, as I can jumper it and have the daytime headlights come on and such, but it still won't start, so I think that is ruled out. Is there a chance it may be flooded real bad?
Any ideas yet, folks? Thanks!

 

sounds like the fuel pump relay, you might also check your inertia swtich in the pass. side kick panel.

 

Inertia switch? How can that be triggered? My van hasn't moved in a long time; But, I am willing to go look! How can it be reset?
Thanks
Mark

 

I think you just have to push the button.....

 

Ok, think I found it... the button is at the top? I found it in the down position already, and checked the continuity between the wires and the switch is already closed, so everything is normal there...
Mark

 

then it has to be the relay.

 

Gee, I hope that is all it needs! I will be getting the part tomorrow a.m.
Mark
1990 Club Wagon XL 350 460 efi E4OD

 

you said that you can make the fuel pumps run by bypassing hte realay right? You can test the relay if you know anything about electronics, I know how but the procedure is eluding me at the moment.

 

Well, I'm no expert, but I believe a relay takes a low power switch (like when the key is turned on) and provides 12 v power direct from the battery at higher amperage.
That means there should be about 4 terminals: two for key switch to energize the relay, one from the battery supplying power, and one to the accessory (fuel pump) right?
I think by supplying power to the key terminal, I should read power to the supplied (pump) terminal... Am I close?
Mark

 

Yeah, that actually sound like a good test, I would power it with some jumpers and a good battery.

 

Ok, now I'm getting really miffed...
I just replaced both the EEC and fuel pump relays with new parts from Ford.
Still won't start! I pored some gas into the intake again, and it will fire and run very rough for a few seconds, until it burns that fuel up...
If I am getting fuel from the pump when I jumper the fuel pump relay, why does it seem like it doesn't get to the engine? I don't think there is anything between the filter and the fuel rails, like a regulator... Or is there???
I hope someone cam halp me! All Ford says is 'bring it in and we'll test it for 100 bucks'. Yeah, right! I don't wanna go that route, especially since the van doesn't have a working transmission!
Any ideas will be entertained.
Mark

 

If I get a code reader, will it give enough details as to what part is malfunctioning, or will it be a general 'fuel system error' type code??? If that's the case, it might not be worth it?
Mark

 

UPDATE:
Bought a code reader after all. Hooked it up according to manual, light stays on with no codes at all. (not normal code, either!)
Went to the code reader website, they said that when that happens, to ground the single pigtail wire to battery negative, (as some vehicles have too high a resistance on the ground wire) and leave the corresponding code reader terminal empty.I did all that, and nothing...
Can some one tell me which terminals should have wires in the factory test block? There are three wires in my test connector for the EEC (plus the separate pigtail), but one of them doesn't 'line up' with the third terminal on the code reader... Is this normal?
Mark

 

If you look around or PM steve83 he has the procedure to read the codes with a jumper wire and a test light. It is also in the haynes manual.
email me and I'll send you the precedure out of the book.