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Flat Towing Superduty Anyone?

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Old 08-08-2011, 12:46 PM
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Flat Towing Superduty Anyone?

I have recently purchased a 2011 F250 4x4 Lariat and I am considering getting a motorhome. I didn't know I would be getting a motorhome but now I am required to travel for my business more than expected and I want to pull my Superduty behind it, preferably without a dolly or trailer.

Can I flat tow a 4x4 automatic or what is involved? Do I need to disconnect the driveshafts? I know it will be better to just put it on a trailer but I'd like to avoid having a trailer when I disconnect.

I have towed an old suburban and jeep behind my coaches before but they didn't have electronic transfer cases so I'm not sure I can "put it in neutral" with the Superduty's 4x4 system. BTW my coach has a Caterpillar C-15 engine (625 horse) so i'm confident it can pull the truck with no problems. Thanks!
 
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Old 08-08-2011, 01:04 PM
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I do not KNOW for a fact that it is OK

But I do not know of anything in the design that could be hurt from it. This is a true transfer case - putting the TC in neutral is the functional equivalent to disconnecting driveshafts.

That will be one heck of towbar!
 
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Old 08-08-2011, 01:07 PM
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For long distance flat towing I would drop the rear driveshaft. For the front end you must make sure the hubs are not locked. With the hubs unlocked the front axlehafts will not even spin.
 
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Old 08-08-2011, 01:30 PM
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Trailers in Texas over 4-5k (definately by the 7k mark) are required to have brakes. I don't know anything about what the laws are involving a vehicle in tow versus a trailer, but a 4wd SD is a heavy peice of steel to be towing around and being left to it's own accord.

I don't know how tough your RV is (as in, does it have a pintle hook/2.5" receiver, I've seen some coaches with some HUGE enclosed trailers), but equipment trailers aren't too expensive (relative to the cost of a SD), and you'd get brakes, maybe sway control, and you won't be burning the tires on the truck or having to reinstall driveshafts everytime you want to drive it.
 
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Old 08-08-2011, 01:50 PM
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Most owner's manuals address this issue. Here's your link http://www.motorhomemagazine.com/Din...-Towing-Guide/

Steve
 

Last edited by RV_Tech; 08-08-2011 at 01:57 PM. Reason: added a link
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:23 PM
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I think you want this document:
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdi...g%20Manual.pdf

See page 39.
If you had a manual transfer case, you could tow 4-down. With ESOF, you cannot. Which means you will need a driveshaft disconnect system to make doing this practical on a frequent basis.
 
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:39 PM
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why not get a TT or a 5er instead of a motor home? Then you can use the truck.

I would trailer it and it is an automatic trans....unless you have the manual 4x4 that is the only way.
 
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Old 08-08-2011, 02:43 PM
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My apologies on the misinformation...

ESOF has more limitations than I thought.... I'm sooooo glad my truck came with a manual stick transfer case!
 
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Old 08-08-2011, 03:27 PM
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Thanks everyone for the replies.

I would rather have a motorhome type vehicle because of the pass through in bad weather and convenience of being able to have my wife do things in the coach when it's safe (while driving).

I have a feeling I will put it on a flatbed so that I can have the advantage of trailer brakes, not wearing out tires, etc. as aforementioned. I appreciate all the solid advice given.
 
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Old 08-08-2011, 03:31 PM
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Maybe you should flat tow the motorhome.
 
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Old 08-08-2011, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by bpounds
Maybe you should flat tow the motorhome.
He only has an F250, he'd need the upgraded suspension and axles of an F-350 SRW to be able to handle the weight...
 
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Old 08-08-2011, 03:52 PM
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I have a feeling I will put it on a flatbed so that I can have the advantage of trailer brakes, not wearing out tires, etc. as aforementioned.
That your best bet IMO, dropping the driveshaft frequently can be a pain. I figure your motorhome probably has air brakes so you would have been good in the brake dept regardless, extra braking sure never hurts though.
 
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Old 12-04-2013, 09:51 PM
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POWER STEERING PUMP

I HAVE BEEN TOWING MY 1999 F250 4X4 STANDARD DIESEL FOR A COUPLE OF YEARS NOW. NO DRIVE TRAIN PROBLEMS. BUT, I THINK I AM BURNING UP POWER STEERING PUMPS. NOT SURE THIS IS THE PROBLEM OR IF I AM JUST GETTING BAD PUMPS. NOW ON THIRD ONE IN THREE YEARS. DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY TECH INFO ON THIS?
 
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Old 12-05-2013, 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by TEVMAN
I HAVE BEEN TOWING MY 1999 F250 4X4 STANDARD DIESEL FOR A COUPLE OF YEARS NOW. NO DRIVE TRAIN PROBLEMS. BUT, I THINK I AM BURNING UP POWER STEERING PUMPS. NOT SURE THIS IS THE PROBLEM OR IF I AM JUST GETTING BAD PUMPS. NOW ON THIRD ONE IN THREE YEARS. DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY TECH INFO ON THIS?
I think flat towing is only an issue with automatics.

Post your own thread regarding the power steering pumps.

Also, your CAPS LOCK is on.
 
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Old 12-05-2013, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by olderisbetter
Thanks everyone for the replies.

I would rather have a motorhome type vehicle because of the pass through in bad weather and convenience of being able to have my wife do things in the coach when it's safe (while driving).

I have a feeling I will put it on a flatbed so that I can have the advantage of trailer brakes, not wearing out tires, etc. as aforementioned. I appreciate all the solid advice given.
Not to tell you your business, but confirm your truck weight on a scale and be sure to get a trailer well equipped and rated to handle your truck. These diesels get heavy and any tools in the bed can add up very quickly.

Carhauler 14,000 Lb w/ 6" I-Beam Frame Load Trail Trailer Manufacturing

When it comes to towing, overkill is underrated. Have too much trailer rather than not enough. Your Cat engine will handle it with power to spare.
 


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