I have an 03 Escape w/165k miles, 3.0L. Purchased new. The Ford dealership, where my wife works, wants approx $800-900 to repair the a/c: compressor, venturi tube, etc. Is it worth putting that much money into this car? I can't afford a new vehicle(kid in college and another next year!!) and used ones ain't cheap either! It's been a good car so far, but I really hate to spend that much on a car this old & w/this many miles. What do ya'll think?

 

You've owned it since new, it's been a good car, and can't afford a new one. Fix it! Even IF you could afford a new one, I'd still say fix the one you have.

I've never had a problem with putting some $$ into an old or older car or truck that I was reasonably happy with. They were worth more to me than to anyone else. And if I started over again with a used one as a replacement, I'd likely end up working through other problems anyway, maybe worse ones. Sort of the devil you know is better than the devil you don't, economically-speaking.

Save (from not spending) some big bucks, by spending a few smaller ones.

 

I'm with Torky on this one. Though, I would do some comparison shopping. The outlay to repair the A/C is less than a couple months payments on a new vehicle. If the rest of it is in good shape, isn't a couple of 'payments' cheap enough to keep it going.
You haven't described the problem that led you to believe it needs 'all that', so why not meander on down the forum to the "heating and A/C" section and post a question there explaining what it is doing, or not doing, as the case may be.
A venturi or orifice tube is cheap. A compressor is in the $200-300 range, ball park. Labor to evacuate, R&R the compressor and re-charge should be about 2-3 hours. Again, ball park. I think you need a written diagnosis along with pressure readings to be able to tell if the compressor is even damaged. If the shop comments they cannot put refrigerant into the system to test, then move on down the road. They should test and report their diagnosis before calling for a compressor.
tom

 

I think you answered your own question. Seems you have no choice but to have it fixed or use 4-60 AC.

 

Thanks for your help. I did not talk to the techs myself. I was wondering why all that work was needed also. I may try to live with 4-60 till next Spring. But this 110-115 heat index is rough!!! Thanks again!!

 

Why not get it fixed now, so you don't fry? Waiting till next year won't make it cheaper, and that will be less total time that you can use it.

About the cost... If the compressor seized, or is about to, then metal bits and cooked oil has gone through a lot of the system. This all has to be replaced, or cleaned out perfectly, or else the new compressor will have a very short life. Nowadays, compressor warranties address the whole issue requiring certain minimums to be done, and receipts to prove it. But it shouldn't be about how "minimum" it can be done - it should be done right, or else why bother.

To do it properly, besides a quality replacement compressor:

The discharge line must be flushed. This is the line from the compressor head to the condensor. Many of them have a muffler in them. Can't reliably flush a muffler, so the line must be replaced. Often, the discharge line and the suction line are together as a manifold unit, so the whole thing gets replaced.
The condensor must be flushed to perfection. But many condensors have parallel-flow sections to them, so can't flush those good at all, as the more-plugged passage gets less solvent flow, the old path of least resistance idea. So replace the condensor.
Then the line from the condensor to the orifice needs to be flushed or replaced.
Replace the orifice.
Flush the evaporator.
Replace the accumulator-drier, it's dessicant has been polluted, and the system is being opened up.
Flush or replace the suction line, if it's not part of a manifold assembly with the discharge line being replaced already.
Any pressure switches or sensors might as well be replaced, if they had to come out of lines to be flushed or replaced.
And then new O-rings, cleaning up any re-used hose's end fittings, etc.
Add oil to the new compressor, hand-turn it to purge it all out, refill again to the proper amount, and put proper oil amounts in other components.
Evac for a long time, see if it holds vacuum, then measure in charge, verify performance.

There is a lot to be done to do it properly. It will cost some $$. I have done it myself. Decent parts and supplies aren't cheap. And I wasn't paying for my labor.

 

Torky is speaking the truth. The only quibble would be replacing the cutout switches. And, I would add to use some Nylog on the snap-connect fittings. It stabilizes the connection and protects the O-rings from getting damaged by movement.
tom