I have a 1970 F250 all manual with a 360 engine. I have replaced the timing chain, the carb, the distributor, the coil, the distributor cap / rotor and my truck is still eating points about every 100 miles... what could be the problem other than crappy points? I have replaced these points 4 times, twice since the new distributor has been installed... any ideas?
btw: the engine has unknown mileage, does not smoke; however, it is beginning to lose power uphill and has had a rod knock for the past 7 years...thoughts?

 

Check your voltage to coil , 12v to coil will "eat" points

 

Yup, and have you replaced the condensor also?

 

As Mike said, you new to check voltage to the coil. There should be a resistor wire or ballast resistor that drops power to around 9 volts.

Are you sure you're using the right points, and that they are set right?

If you can't figure it out, you could always upgrade to electronic ignition. Better on power and fuel efficiency.

 

I've had bouts of this with an old 429... cheap points, I dug through the shop and found some old (1970's) "standard ignition" brand points and put them in, problem solved. Also, moisture in the cap can corrode cheap points...but unless you're driving through rivers it shouldn't be that moist in 100 miles.

 

and don't forget to grease the cam

 

B8Q-12171-A .. Point Set (Motorcraft DP-12).

ALL: 1958/73 V8 FoMoCo vehicles (except hipo's w/dual point dizzies) / All: 1974/75 V8 FoMoCo vehicles without electronic ignition.
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COLF-12250-A .. Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil (Motorcraft DY-37).

61.49" long / Color coded PINK / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance / #20 gauge wire.

All 1960/70 FoMoCo vehicles / Some 1971/75 FoMoCo vehicles.

 

1970 F250 360 Eats Points, Why???

Because they're tasty!!

(my guess is the voltage as mentioned earlier)

 

I have an Optronics unit in mine, easy to install, havnt had to touch it...

bloomin' nice after the last point-based drama-queen distributor i last dealt with...

 

Yes, the voltage is 9 volts. I replaced the coil and it seems to have worked

 

I want to thank everyone for their quick responses and ideas. As it turns out, the truck is not a "P" series so there is no resister in the ignition system. So far, I have replaced the distributor, the points (several times), the cap, condenser, wire, plugs, starter, and rotor... turns out, the coil was bad. I replaced the coil with an after market "Ford" coil and everything seems to be working well - I also used an "OLD" set of points I found lying around from many years ago... between the two (i.e. older points, new coil), the problem seems to be solved... just passed 150 miles and still running.
Thank you again for all of your ideas and suggestions... now I just to need to locate a 4x4 version of this truck