94 F-250 Passing Gear is... Neutral?
#1
94 F-250 Passing Gear is... Neutral?
Hey all,
1994 F-250 with brand new 460 and brand new OD trans with shift kit installed right before I bought it from previous owner.
(for $1,500 bucks!)
It's happened a few times now and today it almost caused a wreck on the freeway so I thought I'd post here and see what you all had to say.
Driving on the freeway and had to change lanes to make my exit and as I did, I realized the car that was waaay back there in the next lane, was hauling butt and I had to stomp on it to keep him from slamming in to me.
I floored it and I ended up in neutral because that baby revved like nobody's business and although it's happened before under lighter conditions, today it would not come out of neutral until I manually changed to 2nd on the tree. Normally, letting off the gas would get it to change in to gear again, but not today.
What do you think?
Thanks in advance.
1994 F-250 with brand new 460 and brand new OD trans with shift kit installed right before I bought it from previous owner.
(for $1,500 bucks!)
It's happened a few times now and today it almost caused a wreck on the freeway so I thought I'd post here and see what you all had to say.
Driving on the freeway and had to change lanes to make my exit and as I did, I realized the car that was waaay back there in the next lane, was hauling butt and I had to stomp on it to keep him from slamming in to me.
I floored it and I ended up in neutral because that baby revved like nobody's business and although it's happened before under lighter conditions, today it would not come out of neutral until I manually changed to 2nd on the tree. Normally, letting off the gas would get it to change in to gear again, but not today.
What do you think?
Thanks in advance.
#2
Ford Fuel Injection » How To Run a Self-Test Here is a link on how to check for trouble codes. Maybe worth doing even if no lights are on.
Next crawl under the truck and look at the transmission range sensor on the drivers side of the trans. It is the electrical thing with the shift linkage connected to it. If it looks like it`s original it may be worth replacing it with a new updated one.
Next crawl under the truck and look at the transmission range sensor on the drivers side of the trans. It is the electrical thing with the shift linkage connected to it. If it looks like it`s original it may be worth replacing it with a new updated one.
#3
Ford Fuel Injection » How To Run a Self-Test Here is a link on how to check for trouble codes. Maybe worth doing even if no lights are on.
Next crawl under the truck and look at the transmission range sensor on the drivers side of the trans. It is the electrical thing with the shift linkage connected to it. If it looks like it`s original it may be worth replacing it with a new updated one.
Next crawl under the truck and look at the transmission range sensor on the drivers side of the trans. It is the electrical thing with the shift linkage connected to it. If it looks like it`s original it may be worth replacing it with a new updated one.
Vehicle speed sensor was the error I got awhile back and I changed it out. Also, the range sensor was replaced at that time, but nothing changed there either.
I know there is some micro adjustment on the range sensor, but I think it's finally good. I tried several times until I got the smoothest shift I could get out of it, which is not as smooth as I would like, but it's got a shift kit so I guess I need to live with that.
Thanks again!
#4
The TRS is always suspect when a neutral in commanded but if new then it can be ruled out.
Only other thing I can think of is dirty/loose/damaged plug connectors to the trans or internal wiring fault.
If a real time scanner could be hooked up it might show what is happening when the fault occurs.
Only other thing I can think of is dirty/loose/damaged plug connectors to the trans or internal wiring fault.
If a real time scanner could be hooked up it might show what is happening when the fault occurs.
#5
The TRS is always suspect when a neutral in commanded but if new then it can be ruled out.
Only other thing I can think of is dirty/loose/damaged plug connectors to the trans or internal wiring fault.
If a real time scanner could be hooked up it might show what is happening when the fault occurs.
Only other thing I can think of is dirty/loose/damaged plug connectors to the trans or internal wiring fault.
If a real time scanner could be hooked up it might show what is happening when the fault occurs.
I think a real time scanner is an excellent idea. Could an average Joe buy one or are they mega bucks suitable for shops only?
Thanks again.
#6
#7
Good question on the scanner. You could probably get an OBD2 one for a couple of hundred (maybe less) but not sure about OBD1 (which you would need).
Maybe go to summitracing.com and look through the OBD1 scanners to check prices, pretty sure I remember one but around $250.00 I think.
Maybe go to summitracing.com and look through the OBD1 scanners to check prices, pretty sure I remember one but around $250.00 I think.
Thanks for sticking around and helping out. Much appreciated.
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#8
#9
I know the TRS connection is good because it was replaced with the sensor, but I don't think I ever checked anything on the passenger side. I'll definitely check it out in a few hours when the sun comes out.
Thanks and I'll report back with my findings either way.
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