So what was the cause of the original leak? Jody already asked about the little check ball. To hook up a gauge you can use the hole the ICP sensor screws into or remove a plug from the inboard side of the oil rail. You'll need a gauge that goes to 3,000 psi to read pressure, but if it's getting over 500 psi while cranking then oil pressure should not be the issue.

If you have no idea what ball Jody is talking about, then stop cranking and look at guzzle's site for info on where that ball is supposed to be.

 

Never could find the original leak, it just never was apparent despite all my looking. Plus, I was nowhere as familiar with all the potential leak spots as I am know having done the top side of the motor. Half of all my hours have been cleaning.

As for the check ball, I followed Guzzles rebuild to a "T". Of course I am second guessing everything right now, so who knows.

I am going to focus on the IPR, as well as double check a few of the other things that have been suggested. If that doesn't work, i guess it will be a second HPOP rebuild.

 

This is what I use. Hope this helps. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OHcCXST2RxQ


Sent from my iPhone

 

Swapped relays - no change
Pulled ICP sensor - no change, threw the 1280 code

Cleared codes

Am going to try and meter the ICP sensor voltage, looking for above .8 from what I can find.

I don't have access to scanner for buzz test, so might try this...GB Remanufacturing - Tech Bulletin #103

When all that fails, on to IPR

Quick Question - Before I pull IPR - will draining the HPOP reservoir reduce the amount of oil spill out? I am going to pull it with the fuel bowl on and I don't want to get my hands stuck down there any more than I have to.

 

Also, 10.94 volts at interior source during crank, if that helps rule out electrical

 

Actually, I dont see any need to test ICP, because I am getting no codes and even if unplugged, the system won't fire.

Plus, I read through this...

1.) ICP System Diagnostics
P1211 sets if ICP is 410 psi above or 280 psi below desired pressure for 7.5
seconds.
P1212 sets if 725 psi of ICP is not detected in 6 to 15 seconds of cranking.
P1280 code is for ICP circuit low (often open circuits). Typical issues include,
corrosion, spread pins, or improperly crimped terminals at the ICP sensor harness
connector.
If a P1280 is set, the PCM will display a default value of 725 psi at idle. To verify
open circuit concern use ICPv.
ICP KOEO signal voltage should be between .16 to .28 volts.

Craptastic, this is getting annoying

I am trying to do the best analysis I can with out all the diagnostic tools available.

 

I believe you need 11.5 to fire the injectors. Someone else should chim in on that. E-mail megawatt00 Jim, he can tell you for sure.
Chet

 

Oops double post.

 

10.5Volts

 

Any chance you knocked the UVC loose while changing the glow plugs? Since you can't buzz test with your tuner, try ohming them out just to make sure everything is connected.

 

was thinking the same Trevor. The OP put a new one in. Im suspecting it aint hooked up right.

 

question to everyone, should ur gauges sweep wen turning the key into the on position like to let ur glowplugs warm up?

 

My GS gauge does. *Corection* Aftermarket gauges do. Stock do NOT. Sorry... not enough coffee.

 

right on :-), im still having starting probs as well wen u turn key on wate for glow plugs then start it acts like batteries are dead but wiggel the paralell cabel on passenger side and alot of the time she will start but sems like if it sits over night or while im at work she wont then i gotta play with it, i thought it was that cable cuz the conector was one of them crimp tyle and u could wiggel the cabel and the conector stay will worked good for about 3 days then back too square 1 so i figured ground on block i took it apart about 30 min ago and it still doing it

 

Hey... had kinda a brain fart... I was reading it as aftermarket gauges... not the stock ones. My GS gauges do the sweep thing... stock do not. Sorry.... still too early.

When mt battery went dead the gauges would sweep, the odometer would flicker, and the relays in the fuse box would make a clicking sound... so it may be worth looking into. Sorry again for the confussion.

This was from dead batteries. (One had a bad cell.)
‪Broke Down F-350‬‏ - YouTube

This is a normal start:
‪Diesel Cold Start - 2002 Ford F-350 7.3L Turbo Diesel‬‏ - YouTube