The changing your HPOP oil thing is a great example of why folks make fun of our buddy from powerstrokehelp.com. The HPOP oild comes from the crankcase and is pumped into the reservoir by the same low pressure oil pump that lubricates your engine. Take everything you hear from that guy with a grain (or a Tablespoon) of salt. If you really want an education on your PSD, read the forum here at FTE.

As far as what to look for on buying a PAD, HERE is a link you need to check out. Scroll down to where he talks about "Buying Used Power Stroke Diesels". Tons of good info there.

And don't be shy about asking questions here. These guys are great and understand that we all have things to learn and that nobody knows it all.

Good luck with your decision. FWIW, I got mine last fall (actually traded straight up for my '99 F-150) and have never regretted it.

 

X2 on what Nate said...24/7 tech help right here and then some. Also like he said ASK QUESTIONS! No ONE knows it all but their are a few sharper ones here that come close and will go out of their way to help you out.
Here are 2 more "gotta have" links:
1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual
97-15A 7.3L DI Turbo Workshop Manual
but the most important link is this:
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
see you around!

 

Ok guys, not looking to turn this into a bitch session about someone I don't know. Let me clear up a few things.

The guy may come across a bit different but seriously, attacking him? Is any of the info that he gives bad or detrimental to the health of your motor? Seems a little **** retentive with the changing of the HPOP oil but, it is his business to be. If I had a mechanic I would want him to be that **** about the care of my truck. Injectors are expensive, he works on these things all the time so he probably has a little more insight than those of us who have only worked on a few.

I guess others may find him to be a joke and everybody is entitled to their opinion but, I have found his info very helpful for being completely unfamiliar with these motors.

I think this thread alone shows I am not afraid to ask questions here. I come from the Jeep world and have found that bulletin boards are priceless. I do appreciate everyones advice and opinions.

As for the oil pan, I am not completely sure it is the pan but it seems to me it is. It is wet on the sides dripping from the drain plug. Also, it doesn't seem to come all the way down the pan. I will plan on replacing when swapping the D60.

Now with the whole planning to swap the axle and just holding off for an F-350, I can't. I have been towing by brand new 30' travel trailer with my 1995 Grand Cherokee with a 4" lift and it is a pain in the @$$ and not safe. The other reason is I won't find similar for even close to the same price. Rust free in MI costs a lot of $$. Plus, I would plan on lifting an F350 which will be a lot of the same work so I am only out the cost of the axle.

Lastly........

97 ford f250 4x4power stroke diesel

-Joseph

 

As for the powerstrokehelp guy, well, to put it nicely he preaches as fact something that is simply a myth (HPOP oil for example).

I am not saying that he doesn't know some things about Powerstrokes, but he acts like he is "The" powerstroke guru, and when he obviously is mistaken on some things, I don't think you can take as fact anything he says without at least getting a second opinion. He may be right on a particular problem, but just don't take it as fact just because Bill Hewitt said so!

 

I don't mean to "attack" him, but I do believe that he deserves ridicule. Anyone who proudly broadcasts false information deserves ridicule.

 

I like that truck, I wouldnt let pass by, I would buy it rigth now.

About the guy, I confess myself that at the begining, when you dont know ANYTHING about PSDs, seems to be GOOD, but when the time comes on and you are in this forums, you can see that its not that good, but I honestly can say that I learned some things from him, because he has some good things fore sure, but nothing to do with the knowledge of the people of this forum

 

I will say as well, that I don't necessarily think that ridiculing our buddy Bill over at powerstokehelp is productive, but once you get to know how these engines work and start to learn some things from these boards, it is pretty comical some of the things he preaches. The HPOP oil is just one example. He is telling people that things are "absolutely essential to the life and longevity of your Powerstroke" when they aren't necessary at all. A lot of it seems to just be hype to build up his business, which is fine as long as the facts are correct. The issue is that Bill often has the facts wrong and is preaching incorrect information as gospel. THAT, I have a problem with. Watch the videos if you like (I have) but like I said, take everything with a grain of salt and ask the question before you spend a half an hour "changing your HPOP oil". Some of the things he says ore just incorrect.

Back on topic, though, that is certainly a very clean looking truck. From what I can see it looks like a good deal, but you will never know until you take a really good hard look at it. Read the link I attached earlier and check the truck out carefully (specifically checking the turbo for dusting, play in the shaft and checking the coolant SCA levels) but if the truck looks to be mostly stock, runs good and seems clean and well maintained (which it appears to be from the pictures) I say jump on it. You might want to ask about the transmission as well as these E4OD autos aren't cheap to rebuild or buy (about $2k for a rebuild and about $4500 for a BTS with a lifetime warranty). A D60 SFA conversion will likely cost you around a grand, but then you will have the truck you wanted, some really good knowledge, and the ability to know you can wrench on it yourself. Also for what i t is worth, here in Ohio, a 3/4 ton truck (F250) is a lot cheaper to title than a 1 ton truck (F350).

Let us know when the work begins! You're going to love that truck, just be fore-warned that your checkbook isn't going to like you once you get the PMS bug (Powerstroke Mod Syndrome). This forum will help you get the most bang for your buck out of that truck for sure.

 

Seems like you may have 2 sites to check out. You can always bounce ideas and such off both. see you around!

 

I would buy that truck after a look over

 

look under it for rust, and take a refrigerator magnet with you to look for body filler. stick the magnet to the tops of the wheel openings on the fenders, rear of the fenders, rear cab corners, ya know, any place you would expect to see rust or body rot.
if the magnet sticks, it is metal. if it don't stick, it is painted over non metallic body filler. (bondo)

as the guys say, at the onset Bill at powerstrokehelp looks like he knows a ton of stuff.
then once you start reading the tech threads here and learning about these engines, you will realize he talks a lot of BS to drum up business for his shop doing un necessary costly work

 

Good point Tom.
You could drag your finger through the valley and pull out the oil fuel junk and look him in the eye and ask "How long has it been leaking fuel?" Look for "floaters" in the brake resevior and ask "Whats that shtuff?". Rock the tierods back/forth and let out a dissapointing "Sheesh man!". LOL. Just some easy things to rattle the seller some and maybe get the price down some.

 

come on Ian, that is down rite devious.


my way is more subtle.

 

I KNOW....Isn't that wrong of me?!!! I would NEVER do that, hehehe.

 

Remind me to never sell you guys a truck. Lol

 

I am going to get it pending anything major now that I have been schooled. I have the money in hand just playing the time game. I hate to be that way but I am in the driver seat. He posted it 7/02 for $7500, on 7/05 he edited the add to reflect $7000, when I called him last tuesday (7/12) he said he had just dropped it to $6500, and when I drove it on 7/14 he said he just needs to get rid of it. He also said he has already bought another truck.

On to some of the mechanical discussion. New tranny around 8,000 miles ago. Body has a known spot of filler that he was very open about. It is in the lower part of the passenger box side, between the wheel and the cab. It was creased enough to need bondo to smooth out.

It got a paint job because a guy he did some work for owed him money and was a shade tree body man. The guy had no money and the truck had some fade, peeling, dings, and scratches so he figured new paint is better than no payment. The only rust I can see paint over is is in the door jamb where the rocker meets the B pillar. Very light, I would maybe grind and POR-15 but it is nothing major. Now the paint has definite flaws in terms of orange peel and one sag but the body is very sound and surprisingly enough, no overspray and instead of masking off the chrome fender trim, it was removed before painting. I also pulled inner fenders away to feel for patch panels and check the lips of the fenders, it was all good. Looked to me that the body was undercoated early on and has saved it quite a bit. As for the underbody, there is surface rust but again, by Michigan standards it was very clean.

I actually think the new paint is a deterent because 1. it is black and shows every flaw, and 2. makes everyone think it is only solid because of body filler. I am going to run a magnet all over before purchasing.

As for the motor, I have set the expectation within myself that with 3.55 gears it is a turd at take off, but should get some decent mileage for commuting and towing. I do plan on going to 4.10's when I put the D60 in. I found 1 for $750 but have to read more about the swap to know what all I need. He has just the axle and hubs for single or dually. My goal is to run the Sky manufacturing 3" shackle reversal but need to know if my steering on the TTB will work or if I need all of it from the solid axle truck. Also, I am confused as to whether the hubs on my TTB will bolt to a D60 on the chance that I find one with the dually hubs.

I know either way, my first order of business is removing the exhaust and maybe changing out the down pipe?

-Joseph