Here's a picture of the tool that I copied from from Billy (GNXTC2). This is from his webshots page.

 

QUESTION: I have a 1994 F350 SRW 4x4. The front inner axle seals are leaking. I've got the axles out and diff cover off. I am hesitating to pull out the carrier because I cannot find any clear information on whether or not adjustments will be needed when reinstalling the carrier.

Does anyone know if the carrier can be removed and reinstalled without having to make adjustments? I don't plan on using a spreader, at least not at this juncture.

Any and all input would be GREATLY appreciated!!

Jeff

 

You may or may not need to make any adjustments. What you need is a dial indicator and magnetic base (cheap at Harbor Freight) to check the backlash. Search YouTube for videos on how to check backlash. If it's in spec your good; if not, you need to adjust it with the side shims. It's really not that hard. Here's the torque and backlash specs... Dana 60 Rear End Parts, Positraction, you save money! - Drivetrain.com

 

I doubt you would need to unless it needed it before taking it apart. Make sure the caps and bolts go back on in same location as they came off

 

Ok so, assuming things were fine before, and I put everything back the way it came off, then it should go back in without any adjustments needed??

 

You can pull and replace the carrier without changing the set up.

 

Ok, thanks for the input guys! I'll be getting an early start pulling out the carrier today so I can change the inner axle seals. Wish me luck!

 

After 3 seal purchases I finally got the correct seals, from Ford. AutoZone just could not get the right ones which had the cone on the outside. Nonetheless, the new seals are in and the carrier is reinstalled. Unfortunately my manual does not cover the torque spec for the bearing caps. Anyone with the official spec and willing to share is much appreciated.

Will be posting the whole process as soon as I am done!!! Including pictures!

Jeff

 

i was just wondering is there anything else that should be fixed while its all apart?

 

This would be a good time to replace axle joints if needed. I'd go ahead and do the outer tube seals and spindle bearings and seals while it's out. The wheel bearings can be packed and adjusted if they are still good, but I'd go ahead and put a new seal in the back of the hub. Check the ball joints, this would be a good time to do those too if they need replaced.

 

did you get the one piece or the two piece seals?

Is the pinion yoke seal difficult to change? I am sure that my previous owner changed it and just "tightened it really good" so I can't rely on marking and counting the nut turns back to the original position.

 

It's not hard to change, I changed mine and just tightened the nut back until it just did load the bearing, just don't tighten it too much.

 

Hey guys, Just a quick question here. I pulled out my axle shaft to replace my large spindle seal and dust seal, and when I pulled the shaft, near the spline where it would meet the inner axle bearing, a seal came out along with a plastic tube that is the diameter of the axle housing. The seal number is 52148. I have never had an oil leak, can i remove that seal from the shaft to side on the new dust seal, and press on a new 52148 in the same position and reinstall the axle shaft. This seal looks to be on the tube side of the bearing in the axle

Dan

 

There are a couple of threads about this issue so I picked the one that seemed to have the most information.

I ground the metal lip and used the below improvised threaded rod to pull the seal into its seat. No success. My challenge was keeping the outer ring straight. It would get slightly cocked and the metal lip in the inner piece would slip into the outer, deforming it.

I'd appreciate any suggestions on installation. Right now I'm trying to decide if I should just put the old style in or to get another new seal. I have ruined two seals so far and need to improve my installation success.

Thanks in advance!

 

In the diesel power magazine article where they rebuild a D60 front.
They used a PVC coupler the same size (or close) as the seal and tapped it in with a rubber mallet.

This is what I will be following when I do it. I have leaky seals too

http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/f...0_axle_repair/